Snubber or No Snubber

Didn’t mean to stop the competition! We can even restart the bait vs. hardware and cable vs. braid discussions. There’s also the good old glass vs aluminum thing. Tons of off-season opportunities on this board! 😂
I think it was a tie from what I remember. We need a winner this round.
these threads usually start when fishing is slow!
 
Any pics?? 😉
2011 I changed it after open discussion on here, and it wasn't my idea. Two overhand loops, and polomar knot to braid, and loop to ball. No swivels anywhere. Pretty good track record fishing year round. It really worked well with braided setup.

Original posts...


 
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Didn’t mean to stop the competition! We can even restart the bait vs. hardware and cable vs. braid discussions. There’s also the good old glass vs aluminum thing. Tons of off-season opportunities on this board! 😂
I think it was a tie from what I remember. We need a winner this round.
Yeah, it's starting to feel off-season already.
- Snubber over no snubber. Easy on the hands. Came unhooked towing on the island highway recently and snubber saved a potential bad day.
- Glass over aluminum. Aluminum=practicality Glass=leisure
- Hardware over bait. Boo to stinky hands
- braid over wire. And don't try to tell me there is actual science to black boxes.
- EFI over carb. If you like pulling & cleaning carbs you have too much time
- drift over anchor. I have kids that love to jig for hours and need exercise
What'd I miss?
 
Weakest link? Scotty swivel imo...doh. oh ya snubber but ya gotta chop em off annually or they stretch like an oh never mind.
 
Yeah, it's starting to feel off-season already.
- Snubber over no snubber. Easy on the hands. Came unhooked towing on the island highway recently and snubber saved a potential bad day.
- Glass over aluminum. Aluminum=practicality Glass=leisure
- Hardware over bait. Boo to stinky hands
- braid over wire. And don't try to tell me there is actual science to black boxes.
- EFI over carb. If you like pulling & cleaning carbs you have too much time
- drift over anchor. I have kids that love to jig for hours and need exercise
What'd I miss?
Bunks over roller
Braid over mono
Boxed trap over round
Lithium over lead-acid
Electric over hydraulic trim tabs

Man…. Feels like the steelhead season is already here!
 
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well i am 150lb braid to 300lb kevlar to bumber bead /snap swivel ..... but run my release off the fin of the cannonball on extened longer 72"
now there is a topic longer or shorter on the release clip length snap on at the ball or how far up on the rigger line ??????
 
Thanks to Bill, I build a similar rig with 400.
Billy is the brains behind the new snubber for sure, and showed me how to build them. His version, that I use, does not employ a swivel to create the attachment point for your braid - rather just a simple loop which works perfectly as a stopper.
 
Billy is the brains behind the new snubber for sure, and showed me how to build them. His version, that I use, does not employ a swivel to create the attachment point for your braid - rather just a simple loop which works perfectly as a stopper.
Yes, that's how I go about it too (thanks to Bill). Simple is good.
 
well i am 150lb braid to 300lb kevlar to bumber bead /snap swivel ..... but run my release off the fin of the cannonball on extened longer 72"
now there is a topic longer or shorter on the release clip length snap on at the ball or how far up on the rigger line ??????
Shorter the better, but not so short that you can't hook the clip over the rigger when setting up. 48" is a good average I find. I like to have my ball and dummy/kone zone in the water with my clip right at the roller. On my boat that's about 4 feet of separation which is perfect so there's no tangle issues. So if my clip gets too long then I'm getting 6 or 7 feet between my dummy and lure which is pushing it. I like it as tight as possible. I don't take my ball out of the water when netting, I just turn the rigger forward or back against the side of the boat. I don't need people putting cannon dents on the glass trying to fumble them up out of the water. Everything stays in place for a quick reset.
 
Yes, that's how I go about it too (thanks to Bill). Simple is good.
Before seeing Bills 400 lb mono rig, I was building them out of tuna cord which under normal fishing works reasonably well. However, as I often fish right on the bottom I found the tuna cord just ended up with a lot of breakage issues. Given the price of cannon balls these days (especially coated ones), I was looking for an alternative that was far more robust.

The issue with tuna cord that I encountered was it slowly rots over time and there is no real way to know when its done other than to replace the rig every couple of weeks. Tuna cord also seems to break fairly easily if you rub on any sharp rocks.

Whereas the 400 lb mono doesn't rot, and seems to have a lot of resistance to breakage if its dragged along sharp rocks. I fish over 100 days a season and by far Bill's rig is the best I've ever used.
 
Before seeing Bills 400 lb mono rig, I was building them out of tuna cord which under normal fishing works reasonably well. However, as I often fish right on the bottom I found the tuna cord just ended up with a lot of breakage issues. Given the price of cannon balls these days (especially coated ones), I was looking for an alternative that was far more robust.

The issue with tuna cord that I encountered was it slowly rots over time and there is no real way to know when its done other than to replace the rig every couple of weeks. Tuna cord also seems to break fairly easily if you rub on any sharp rocks.

Whereas the 400 lb mono doesn't rot, and seems to have a lot of resistance to breakage if its dragged along sharp rocks. I fish over 100 days a season and by far Bill's rig is the best I've ever used.
Instead of tuna cord, I use 1/8" braided nylon rope (or is it cord? Are there rules?). Same easy handling, but it's UV and salt water friendly. Hardware stores sell it by the foot, or Amazon has 100 ft spools for under $20.
 
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