Slippery Ramp / 4x4 use

[mbowers]

The other evening and again in the morning at low tide, I backed in the trailer (no boat so almost no weight!) stopped the truck (2006 F150 4x4 in 2WD), put in park, engaged the E-brake and got out. The truck started to slide backwards without the rear wheels turning: they just slid on the mud and algae. The front wheels were rolling because the transmission (in 2WD) and E-brake only work on the rear wheels. I jumped back in and hit the brakes which engaged the front brakes and stopped the rig from sliding under the sea. I tried putting it in 4x4 which I hoped would engage the front wheels with park on the transmission and stop the sliding but that didn't seem to be happening so I just had a friend stand on the brakes while I loaded the boat.

Should a 2006 F150 in 4x4 take torque from front wheels back to the transmission? I know my early 90s Pathfinder would NOT transfer torque back from the front wheels in 4x4 to the transmission and I got in a spot of trouble on Mt Washington because engine braking didn't work at all. I thought automatic hub design was a little better these days but maybe not?

 

[scott craven]

Sliding on slime is like sliding on ice, once the wheels have broken loose it's hard to get
traction back. you would have a better chance regaining control with a driver remaining in the truck
engaged in 4wheel low.

 

[fish stalker]

Did you pull foward a few feet? Usually you have to move to get the 4wd to engage.


in theory it should send torque threw the drive shaft to the transmission via one wheel unless you have a true locker. But most new trucks have a open carrier that only sends torque to one wheel. If that one wheel loses traction neither one will spin. Most new trucks have a limited slip which isnt a true locker.

 

[Money Well Spent]

Saw a new Escalade put in a 26ft fancy boat last year here at our local ramp.
no plugs in...rear tie downs still on.
Brakes and tranny never helped him either.
I love my GMC....(so did his wife)

 

[mbowers]

Did you pull foward a few feet? Usually you have to move to get the 4wd to engage.


in theory it should send torque threw the drive shaft to the transmission via one wheel unless you have a true locker. But most new trucks have a open carrier that only sends torque to one wheel. If that one wheel loses traction neither one will spin. Most new trucks have a limited slip which isnt a true locker.

Agreed. I turned the switch, pulled up the ramp several feet, saw the light come on and reversed back down so I think the 4x4 was engaged. I'm pretty sure I don't even have a limited slip on the rear end. I was thinking the E-brake was taking care of both the back wheels and preventing them from moving at all. I just wanted to get some stopping power while in park out of the front end which was away from the mud. I'm mostly curious if autolocking hubs will do that or does one need manual hubs to get the transmission in park to help stop the front wheels from moving. Maybe none of the hubs will work in park?

I went with the friend on the brakes this time but I fish alone plenty of the time. It would be a real shame if I I can't get the truck to stay on the ramp by itself and I had to go back out on the boat until the tide was higher and it was safe to load the trailer.

 

[ReelAffair]

I use a brake pedal depressor, a rod with a metal plate that goes from the brake pedal up to the seat, holding the brakes while I get out and do my stuff.

Any parts store should have one or be able to get one, or fabricate your own.

 

[Mike_R]

How about using a wheel chock under the front driver's side tire

 

[mbowers]

I use a brake pedal depressor, a rod with a metal plate that goes from the brake pedal up to the seat, holding the brakes while I get out and do my stuff.
Any parts store should have one or be able to get one, or fabricate your own.

That's a great idea and essential for a 4x2. I'd still like to know if I should be able to get the front wheels to use Park on the transmission to apply stopping power via 4x4. I'd rather not pack an extra tool around in the cab if I don't have to. If I do go that route I think I'd see if a large adjustable rod clamp at the hardware store would work as a brake depressor and then you have a big clamp when you need it.

How about using a wheel chock under the front driver's side tire

I thought about the chock and it would work but it's a little more risky as you have to jump out and get the chock in place before the truck slides away and without you slipping and landing on your face. Good backup choice though IMHO.

 

[ReelAffair]

when in park the front wheels should hold as well

 

[beemer]

The other evening and again in the morning at low tide, I backed in the trailer (no boat so almost no weight!) stopped the truck (2006 F150 4x4 in 2WD), put in park, engaged the E-brake and got out. The truck started to slide backwards without the rear wheels turning: they just slid on the mud and algae. The front wheels were rolling because the transmission (in 2WD) and E-brake only work on the rear wheels. I jumped back in and hit the brakes which engaged the front brakes and stopped the rig from sliding under the sea. I tried putting it in 4x4 which I hoped would engage the front wheels with park on the transmission and stop the sliding but that didn't seem to be happening so I just had a friend stand on the brakes while I loaded the boat.

Should a 2006 F150 in 4x4 take torque from front wheels back to the transmission? I know my early 90s Pathfinder would NOT transfer torque back from the front wheels in 4x4 to the transmission and I got in a spot of trouble on Mt Washington because engine braking didn't work at all. I thought automatic hub design was a little better these days but maybe not?

It doesn't sound like you were in 4 low. I have a 2006 f150 and you have to follow this procedure
To shift into 4L
1. Press brake
2. put truck into neutral
3. turn knob to 4L
4. wait for it to engage
5. put it back into drive.
make sure your using the brake and stopped while it's shifting into 4L, or it won't engage.

beemer
__________________

 

[mbowers]

It doesn't sound like you were in 4 low. I have a 2006 f150 and you have to follow this procedure
To shift into 4L
1. Press brake
2. put truck into neutral
3. turn knob to 4L
4. wait for it to engage
5. put it back into drive.
make sure your using the brake and stopped while it's shifting into 4L, or it won't engage.

beemer
__________________

I definitely was NOT in 4x4L just 4x4H. I didn't really need the torque to get up the ramp, I just wanted something to hold the front wheels when I got out of the truck. Is there a difference in whether the front wheels stop at all between 4x4L and 4x4H? I wouldn't expect a difference, but it's not always a simple system.

 

[halimark]

Sounds like a reason for locker install. With warn premium hubs, front and rear full detroits my Toy will only slip if all 4 tires slide, that is very rare. When my hubs are locked only dif between 4 H and 4 L is engine/transmission compression. When launching on the beach (no ramps) I always have my/partner place a rock behind the wheel, I have seen too many pics of floating trucks.

 

[casper5280]

If you are just looking for something to lock the front brakes when you want or need, how about a line lock for the front brakes. Same thing the a dragster/drag car would use when staging a car. I would think that that would be a simple install and fairly cheap.

 

[fish stalker]

If you are just looking for something to lock the front brakes when you want or need, how about a line lock for the front brakes. Same thing the a dragster/drag car would use when staging a car. I would think that that would be a simple install and fairly cheap.

For sure line lock only way to lock the front wheels. You should be able to do it yourself. Go buy a line lock or a Hurst roll control from Lordco. Guys buyem for doing burn outs.

 

[meatwagon]

You would need a switch that stays on, not the typical roll control switch. The brake pedal rod or an assistant is the best option.

 

[MRACER]

a line lock works fine as long as you keep your finger on the switch-LOL! maybe a Mico brake system as used on diesel trucks???Lordco may help you there..

 

[vetteman]

a line lock works fine as long as you keep your finger on the switch-LOL! maybe a Mico brake system as used on diesel trucks???Lordco may help you there..

FYI,you don't need diesels for Mico Locks. We had them on all our big gas powered juice brake trucks for years. Pretty much the same as a line lock except that ours held all four brakes on. Perfect for the application mentioned here.
In my opinion, considering the amount of time you'd need to lock your brakes, an adjustable rod would be the way to go. I use one to apply the air brakes on our trucks so that I can check slack adjuster travel by myself.
Dave

 

[reelfast]

for the electronic shift to engage, the front wheels usually have to make a full rotation. the exception is if you manually locked your hubs and then shifted. best plan is to engage, then back down so you know the 4 x 4 is functioning before you get in trouble.

 

[fish stalker]

You dont have to keep your finger on a button you can install a switch. We use them in 4x bush trucks all the time and they work great. I dont want to say use one and then it fail lol so Ill say always put your truck in 4wd before going on the ramp and use the rod thing.

 

[MRACER]

boy- tuff crowd-LOL I didn't say you needed a diesel for a mico brake-I had one I used as an emergency brake on a hot rod and I believe line locks do not come with a switch other than the button--doesn't mean you can't add an on off switch...last time I drove a race car slow enuff to use a line loc was 1968..hey, they could have changed since then LOL!