Seastar hydraulic cylinder clearance

[salmonkiller01]

Would have to see where that engine sits, height wise. Before raising it up. Hard to tell, however looks a little short as it sits now

Can you take pic of the engine trimmed down, side shot.. so we can see where the cavitation plate sits? Include the hull and pod in the picture

I agree It looks to high already.
did it originally have a 25 inch shaft.

 

[wolf]

Well I can tell you one thing after doing a pod and others will chime in as well the cavitaion plate on motor should be sitting off of a pod is to be 1/2 inch min ABOVE the bottom of pod some even higher depending on the make of such pod (full hull or step up pod etc) mine is about 3/4 of a inch and lots of room for trim in and out etc no cavitation on turn etc. best option to me would get a extension for that motor and a welded on plate...

Good luck Man

 

[Gbrent]

Well I can tell you one thing after doing a pod and others will chime in as well the cavitaion plate on motor should be sitting off of a pod is to be 1/2 inch min ABOVE the bottom of pod some even higher depending on the make of such pod (full hull or step up pod etc) mine is about 3/4 of a inch and lots of room for trim in and out etc no cavitation on turn etc. best option to me would get a extension for that motor and a welded on plate...

Good luck Man

Thanks everyone,
Motor that just came off was a L shaft = 20". Below are some pics to try and help solve this mess. Please advise if you need more detailed pics.

 

[wolf]

Dd say your height it ok but motor is to short so the options are.
A jack plate to move up and down.
B longer leg extension with welded on plate and reinforcement
C get it cut out

Personally id go with B as your engine will be higher out of water as well.
All up to you and how much and how far you want to get into it?

Its only money!!!

Good luck on whatever you do bud....

 

[salmonkiller01]

Thanks everyone,
Motor that just came off was a L shaft = 20". Below are some pics to try and help solve this mess. Please advise if you need more detailed pics.

You could go up one hole on outboard mount, cavitation plate should be 1/2 to 1 inch above keel v. Tilt motor so the cavitation plate is in line with hull bottom In your pictures you are tilted a bit too far down. Still think wolf is right jack plate or welder required.

 

[ship happens]

He needs to add 4 inches to that stern with a plate and add a 5 inch extention with a v6 gearcase.

Sorry about the bad news


I may have an extension at the shop. I know I have a left hand case. None on right hand

 

[profisher]

If he went for making the leg into an XL he would need a whole new gearcase with the longer driveshaft...gets pricey and not much demand for a used 20 inch.

 

[ship happens]

That's the correct thing to do here, as the bracket was not built correctly.


All we can do is fix ****

 

[Gbrent]

Thanks everyone,
Motor that just came off was a L shaft = 20". Below are some pics to try and help solve this mess. Please advise if you need more detailed pics.

To add to the mix, Here is current height situation at the top of the transom... looks like down one hole would be the max possible.

That's the correct thing to do here, as the bracket was not built correctly.


All we can do is fix ****

Hi Everyone,
So I have some more pictures to share, seeking opinions. Hopeful this is the last round...
Pic1 - The cavitation plate height to hull bottom relationship with a more vertical motor position. OK?
Pic2 - Max tilt angle. Full trim down to max up before hydraulic fittings interfere with the top of the transom. Yamaha seems to show this max at 66 degrees, min maxes out at 38.4 degrees.
Pic3&4 - Ground to skeg distance. Showing to ask the group if they feel this enough clearance to avoid skeg/prop incidents while on the trailer (most Island ocean boat ramps, highway travel, parking lot aprons, speed bumps)
Pic5 - Distance from trim ram to motor bracket. If this motor is staying, I am thinking of getting one of the tilt M-Y Wedge things for trailering. Apparently these are around 9 inches long. Any opinions of these devices? Good/Junk?

 

[lemmy]

Would have to see where that engine sits, height wise. Before raising it up. Hard to tell, however looks a little short as it sits now

Can you take pic of the engine trimmed down, side shot.. so we can see where the cavitation plate sits? Include the hull and pod in the picture

 

[ship happens]

Looks like the engine is at the right height.

You need to add 4 inches to that stern for a lip. I've never seen anyone build a bracket without a lip.

It's either that or fabricate and weld in an insert that creates a motor well.

 

[lemmy]

hi, the right way to fix this is option B. If you really want to get on the water , the hydraulic jack plate is a good option , although expensive. I'd be on that dealership for picking up some of the bill for being such dumbasses!! unbelievable actually... Another cheap option , 2 pieces of 3 x8 x 1/2" aluminum channel . drill it to fit your transom , and motor. Leaving it "uncapped " will allow the cylinder to tilt into the void. I'd also drop it down into bottom hole ,as your cavitation plate looks a tad high to me and it will help with the clearance of the cylinder. Btw , im just guessing on the channel dimension from the pics. Maybe 6" set back would be enough ?? Cheers , and good luck.

 

[ship happens]

His height is good. Nothing wrong with just above.

Yeah the dealer should have said something. But the guy who built that bracket needs to give their head a shake.

I would have an insert made up and welded in. If it was me

 

[Brando]

Hydraulic jack plate is the fastest easiest solution. And probably similar to the material and fab costs of adding a well.

 

[Pineapple Express]

The height of the anti-ventilation plate relative to the hull looks good. The height of the powerhead and steering assembly is too low!

I agree that the fastest, easiest way to get going is to install a jack plate. Note that there are some jackplates that are manual (rather than hydraulic) for where adjustment is infrequent. This might be the way to go for you. Here's one such unit:

Bob's Machine - 1 piece 5" Manual Jackplate - Bob's Machine

1 piece manual jack plate 5"

bobsmachine.com

Note that as you move the motor aft the engine mounting height can come up a bit too.

 

[Pineapple Express]

An even cheaper option is a fixed offset kit. You could make this yourself, or buy from Bob's like this:

Bob's Machine - 1 piece 5" Manual Jackplate - Bob's Machine

1 piece manual jack plate 5"

bobsmachine.com

Both the jack plate & fixed-offset brackets will help you get clearance to hopefully trim the motor up more, although I personally doubt that you'll get it totally clear of the water since the engine leg is so short and the pivot is so low.

 

[Brando]

I think to tilt the motor you’ll need to raise the jack plate.

 

[ship happens]

He could mount plate low and raise up the engine mount side. Still won't give much room because not much setback. Might work.. still not the right way to do it. He'll have to drill new holes and fill the old holes.. sounds like a pain I the butt

I'm on team weld in an insert motor well

 

[Pineapple Express]

I think to tilt the motor you’ll need to raise the jack plate.

I think with the setback - and slightly raised position that accompanies that - the motor could be raised for trailering, but you make me wonder...what is the goal here @Gbrent ? To have the motor raised clear of the water when moored in the marina? Or to have it raised and secured for trailering?

 

[Gbrent]

I think with the setback - and slightly raised position that accompanies that - the motor could be raised for trailering, but you make me wonder...what is the goal here @Gbrent ? To have the motor raised clear of the water when moored in the marina? Or to have it raised and secured for trailering?

Wanted to solve both and get opinions of the set up.