Scotty rod holder on downrigger opinion please.

If possible I use flush mounts in the gunwale with the rods pointed straight back - rod comes out easy & you can watch both rods at once.
 
The older model orcas, such as those in your picture, have tendancy to open up under pressure. This happens because in use pressure is exerted upward on the back section and can cause the holder to open. To open them in rod retrieval when a fish hits, you pull straight up on the rod to open it up. The newer models (those without the white ring on the top front section) do not open like that. You need to lift up on the rod at the front section first to open them. Pressure on the rear section only will not open the holder. Much better design, and l now feel confident in using them on my riggers.
Thanks gungadin! I did not know this. I have the older holders (with white ring) and have had no issue. However Scotty gave me a deal on the new version so I got a pair. I found the newer ones really hard to release so went back to the original. Now that you say to release the front first I will try them again. who knew!
 
I use Folbe's on mine. With big springs, the Scotty rod holders can be a real pain to get the rod out of. I took some cork off the ends of various rods with the Scotty rod holders. That's not a problem with the Folbes.
[video]http://www.folbe.com/fishing-rod-holders/advantage-rod-holder-downrigger-mounting-options/rod-holder-downrigger-mounting-kit-f500.html#
 
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Chuck, what do you mean by bases? The holders are one piece so I don't know what piece you are referring to.



Don't know about Chucks but typically they break at the ratchet mechanism on the stem/mounting part, not on the holder part, as per the picture. That ratchet design is the same or similar for a number of their rod holders. The Striker seems to be a completely different very strong design, especially the later version with the stainless reinforcing rod inside it. It seems to me that over time and use they get the plastic equivalent of metal fatigue and just break. In one case we had there was a small flaw/air bubble in the plastic where it broke. Don't know If Scotty has redesigned and strengthened this part but perhaps they should consider it. Took them in a bunch of broken stems like this one and they traded them for new ones. They don't replace the parts of the holder that go overboard unless you have the parts and they are broken, but since it is often on the bottom with your rod??? If the line is set deep in the release clip and the release clip set in the hard position, sometimes you get the Rod back and sometimes you don't.
 

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Was a poor choice in design and used to give a better apearance.You increase torsion on that pivot with that stainless sleeve. The plastic holders on the non high power are in theory stronger as material is allowed to flex. Too make them rigid that force needs to go somewhere. I would never use these holders myself. If I were Scotty I would bail on plastic design and make on similar to what rockfish showed..
 
I guess it makes sense the ratchet sections are the most likely to fail. With the extensions need to mount the Orcas you can really see the stress they are under at both ends, on the boom and the holder when trolling
 
r.s. craven - never had a tangle of any sort in 30 years of down rigger fishing - even when my dumb-butt ex-friend insisted on driving the boat side-ways in a 5 kn current. I would be interested to know what i am doing that may cause a tangle. I am an Engineer & thusly dangerous anytime I take my hands outta my pockets
 
just wondered with rods pointer straight back ??
but now that I think of it, the downrigger's are the only thing that keep the lines separated
 
You would think with rods straight back that they would pull the downrigger lines a little closer together especially when less deep. However with enough separation they should never meet even when going sideways.
There must be less stress on the rod pointing straight back. Mine are angled back off the downriggers which helps a bit
 
Don't know about Chucks but typically they break at the ratchet mechanism on the stem/mounting part, not on the holder part, as per the picture. That ratchet design is the same or similar for a number of their rod holders. The Striker seems to be a completely different very strong design, especially the later version with the stainless reinforcing rod inside it. It seems to me that over time and use they get the plastic equivalent of metal fatigue and just break. In one case we had there was a small flaw/air bubble in the plastic where it broke. Don't know If Scotty has redesigned and strengthened this part but perhaps they should consider it. Took them in a bunch of broken stems like this one and they traded them for new ones. They don't replace the parts of the holder that go overboard unless you have the parts and they are broken, but since it is often on the bottom with your rod??? If the line is set deep in the release clip and the release clip set in the hard position, sometimes you get the Rod back and sometimes you don't.

I lost a favourite rod and reel earlier this year because of the breakage at that point on the mount. Scotty replaced them after the fact with an upgraded version however my stuff is on the bottom of the ocean!
 
Don't know about Chucks but typically they break at the ratchet mechanism on the stem/mounting part, not on the holder part, as per the picture. That ratchet design is the same or similar for a number of their rod holders. The Striker seems to be a completely different very strong design, especially the later version with the stainless reinforcing rod inside it. It seems to me that over time and use they get the plastic equivalent of metal fatigue and just break. In one case we had there was a small flaw/air bubble in the plastic where it broke. Don't know If Scotty has redesigned and strengthened this part but perhaps they should consider it. Took them in a bunch of broken stems like this one and they traded them for new ones. They don't replace the parts of the holder that go overboard unless you have the parts and they are broken, but since it is often on the bottom with your rod??? If the line is set deep in the release clip and the release clip set in the hard position, sometimes you get the Rod back and sometimes you don't.

The stem/ratchet is the piece I was referring too. Good pic, thanks.
 
The only Scotty Rod Holder I would trust with expensive top end gear is the later model Striker, The one where the base pin is reinforced with a stainless rod, not the earlier model that is hollow with no stainless rod inside it. All my other Scotty rod holders are used only with the cheaper gear, (Shimano 4000's etc. - the stuff I don't sweat if the base pin mount breaks off and the rod and reel go overboard). In my experience, because of the length (extra leverage) the Scotty rocket launcher type rod holders break off more than their others.

I have replaced the boom mounted tube type rod holders that came with my High Speed Riggers with very high end, high quality, solid, extra heavy duty all stainless rod holders. They are very expensive ($110 plus tax each) and they have to be modified by being drilled and tapped and a recessed set bolt installed. One of my fishing buddies is a good machinist, so that was no problem. They install with four heavy duty Allen Head bolts plus the set bolt so they can't turn on the boom no matter how much force is applied and they come with a special tool to adjust the ratchet angle. I am pretty confident I would break the Scotty Rigger mounts off or tear a fair bit of fiberglass out of the side of the boat before one of these rod holders would break and deep six the gear.

Keep in mind they are heavier than plastic and add a little weight to the rigger.

Rockfish, what is the purpose of the clip on the line in between your reel and the first rod guide?
 
It is indeed a Creep Keeper to stop reel line creep without having to tighten down the drag excessively when fishing deep, fast and in strong current, especially with MR3's. The one in the picture was an experiment but was found to be too light and would pop off frequently so I now use standard Scotty release clips as Creep Keepers. Not my idea by the way and I learned it on this forum.

They work great and it just snaps off when you grab the rod when you get a fish on. Recently had a big one hook up when we were distracted and facing the other direction (big Chinook double header). We were alerted to the second big one on because it pulled off the rigger release clip and the Creep Keeper clip and we could hear the reel as it slowly pulled out line on a run. You don't have to worry about setting the hook as pulling off the rigger release clip does that as long as it is set hard. I run Creep Keepers on all rods now.

These rod holders are great by the way. On hookup you can whip the rod out of the holder and off the Keeper without damaging the cork in a third of a second. You have to be careful as it is possible to pull out the holders plastic liner and lose it unless you glue it in with a strong flex glue like Goop, or just remove it as the holder works fine without it.
 
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I like the set-up Rockfish recommends. Otherwise, I am always backup-off the drag from where it was set hard to keep line from creeping when trolling. I always palm the spool when letting down, so this way the drag setting NEVER changes. Tight drag = head shaking = lost fish. Line creeping = slack line = lost fish.
 
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Lost an MR3 Islander reel, rod, cop car flasher and a purple black splatter hootchie to a failed Scotty rod holder last week near the green can in Campbell River.
Wife said fish on and as i turned to see it bounce twice then SNAP gone!!!!
They make a great down rigger but i will never buy another plastic piece of $h!t rod holder from them again. It was the rocket launcher type that came with the riggers.
 
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