Tightlines22
Well-Known Member
Great continuing work Scoopy! thanks for posting. It is nice to watch your progress. Also makes me keen to keep my transom sealed tight and dry!
Rotten transom in my new (to me)Grady!!
- Thread starter Scoopy
- Start date
I am looking for a pod for her. If the right one comes along, (cheap!) I will slap it on before I drop the outboard on. I have planned on beefing up the transom for the pod and or change to 4 stroke anyway.
I am looking for a pod for her. If the right one comes along, (cheap!) I will slap it on before I drop the outboard on. I have planned on beefing up the transom for the pod and or change to 4 stroke anyway.
gunnerlove
Well-Known Member
Yes, but any distortion caused by flexing the parts to get them to jam together can become permanent when the epoxy cures. Screwing them together introduces far less stress and deflection and means you can close the gaps then still use a jack(s) to impart the correct curve to the panel.
Project update!
I have been a bit busy so I have only been getting in an hour or 2 at a time. The last few days found my finishing off the plywood laminations and starting the fibreglass work. I used 1/4 chopped strand and cabosil to form a paste with the polyester resin. The paste was used to fill in the gaps around the new transom wood and create a fillet for the fibreglass to follow where it bends. For the tabbing I used 6", 8" and 10" 1708 biaxial tape. It is flexible and very strong. Once the transom was tabbed all the way around the inside skin went on. This was also a panel of 1708.
After the skin set I started scribing in the stringer pieces that were cut back and tabbed them in.
Here is what it looks like. I am currently waiting for the last bit of resin to set.
I have been a bit busy so I have only been getting in an hour or 2 at a time. The last few days found my finishing off the plywood laminations and starting the fibreglass work. I used 1/4 chopped strand and cabosil to form a paste with the polyester resin. The paste was used to fill in the gaps around the new transom wood and create a fillet for the fibreglass to follow where it bends. For the tabbing I used 6", 8" and 10" 1708 biaxial tape. It is flexible and very strong. Once the transom was tabbed all the way around the inside skin went on. This was also a panel of 1708.
After the skin set I started scribing in the stringer pieces that were cut back and tabbed them in.
Here is what it looks like. I am currently waiting for the last bit of resin to set.
Fisherman Rob
Well-Known Member
Good work, great thread! Have you done this before? I'd be more than a little apprehensive to cut off the transome of my boat. Fingers crossed that nothing lurks within...
I have never done this before. Maybe a tiny bit of fibreglass once. The biggest challenge so far is trying to find the time to work on it! I really do think that being a carpenter helps quite a bit though.
I have never done this before. Maybe a tiny bit of fibreglass once. The biggest challenge so far is trying to find the time to work on it! I really do think that being a carpenter helps quite a bit though.
After a week off with a ruptured appendix and surgery I am back on the project!
First order of business was painting the inside of the transom skin and the bilge with fresh gelcoat. Then the pieces of deck that were cut out had to be fit and secured in place with thickened resin and biaxial 1708
Once the deck pieces are secured in place I ground the joints down about 1/4" and laid in some thin fibreglass cloth on the face of the repair and some biaxial on the underside.
First order of business was painting the inside of the transom skin and the bilge with fresh gelcoat. Then the pieces of deck that were cut out had to be fit and secured in place with thickened resin and biaxial 1708
Once the deck pieces are secured in place I ground the joints down about 1/4" and laid in some thin fibreglass cloth on the face of the repair and some biaxial on the underside.
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I used a straight piece of wood as a form to pour in a gooey mixture of glass filler and chopped strand on the top of the transom. This seals the top with a tough, rock hard cap that will not allow any water in.
The original transom had a joint with a piece of aluminum angle on it witch would have failed within a few years of manufacture. Not such a good design!
The original transom had a joint with a piece of aluminum angle on it witch would have failed within a few years of manufacture. Not such a good design!
After the glass set I went about doing the fairing. For this, I used a product called "Duraglass". It is designed for marine use, and since I am spraying gelcoat over it you have to use a polyester resin product, as gelcoat will not cure over epoxy.
Here is the transom sprayed in gelcoat. To get a near perdect match I took a section of the deck I cut out to Monaro and had them make me a half gallon. The match was near perfect!
[/[URL=http://s12.photobucket.com/user/mjkamer/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsk90bjwdi.jpg.html]
Here is the transom sprayed in gelcoat. To get a near perdect match I took a section of the deck I cut out to Monaro and had them make me a half gallon. The match was near perfect!
[/[URL=http://s12.photobucket.com/user/mjkamer/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsk90bjwdi.jpg.html]
salmonlander
Member
very nice job!
I added styrene to thin it, then for the last coat I added air dry, which is parafin wax disolved in styrene.
I added styrene to thin it, then for the last coat I added air dry, which is parafin wax disolved in styrene.
Fisherman Rob
Well-Known Member
Gotta say I felt a fair amount of grief for you in the nightmare photo in post #14 - denial, anger, bargaining, depression! I must say that with your last post I am now firmly into acceptance and even hope!
