An opinion on MR3 Line Creep
I have 3 MR3's and they do tend to line creep, especially deep under heavy current load, some a little more than others. This bothered me in the earlier days of ownership and I took one that was the worst offender out to the factory a few years ago (nice to have it close) and bitched about it to Barry. Islander completely rebuilt and serviced it free of charge. I understand Barry is not with them anymore but it was obvious to me that this was a great local BC company who know they sell a premium world class product at a premium price and were prepared to back it up with premium almost Scotty like free service. Hopefully that has not changed. That reel still slightly creeped the first time I took it out after the factory servicing.
I no longer view the slight creep potential as a problem, but rather as a consequence of what really makes the MR3 an exceptional reel for playing large salmon. That is the near infinite drag adjustment range and the amazingly smooth buttery drag. It does not use drag washers like you will find in many similar reels, but rather a very large, cork covered lubed clutch. No other reel of it’s type, other than the MR2, will in my opinion match it for its ability to wear down an exceptionally large salmon with heavy SMOOTH resistance. I have not yet tried an Islander TR3.
When many other similar reels are set on heavy drag for big Chinook, there is a lot of initial resistance to getting it to start playing out line as the fish begins to try and run. This causes the fish to tend to jerk at the line and reel to get the reel to begin playing out line which can increase the possibility that it will pull out the hook and over a long battle that jerkiness also increases the likelihood that the fish will open up or wear a hole in the flesh around the hook which makes it easier for the hook to slide out late in the fight, especially since barbed hooks are no longer permitted. If you fish braid without the shock absorbing characteristics of mono, reel drag smoothness is even more important.
The heavy smooth drag of an MR3 wears them down quickly but does not tend to help the fish pull the hook when it wants to start up on each new run and decreases the chances it will do the twisty and head shaking stuff rather than start up a new run which also decreases the chance it will throw the hook. The more the salmon can make niece smooth multiple runs, the faster it wears itself out. That same run start up smoothness does, however, also make the reel more likely to creep, especially under heavy load.
The near infinite drag adjustment range on the MR3 also insures that you will not lock it down by mistake, which can happen with some other reels, (especially when the drag washers are warn – Shimano comes to mind) resulting in break offs and pulled hooks.
MR3 line creep is easily solved by the use of a “creep keeper” attached to the rigger boom. One is easily made and installed and is nothing more than a very short standard Scotty yellow tipped release clip attached to the rigger boom close to the reel. It is automatic for me to put the release clip on the fishing line close to the MR3 reel. When a fish hits, you do not waste time removing the clip you just pick up the rod fast out of the rod holder and it will pull off the keeper easily and no time is lost fiddling with it. The creep keeper is not necessary all the time but if you fish JDF deep in 6 knot current, having the keeper always attached to the rigger boom and available for use solves the issue. The use of the Keeper also assures that you will not grossly overtighten the drag in an attempt to stop it from creeping.
I have 3 MR3's and they do tend to line creep, especially deep under heavy current load, some a little more than others. This bothered me in the earlier days of ownership and I took one that was the worst offender out to the factory a few years ago (nice to have it close) and bitched about it to Barry. Islander completely rebuilt and serviced it free of charge. I understand Barry is not with them anymore but it was obvious to me that this was a great local BC company who know they sell a premium world class product at a premium price and were prepared to back it up with premium almost Scotty like free service. Hopefully that has not changed. That reel still slightly creeped the first time I took it out after the factory servicing.
I no longer view the slight creep potential as a problem, but rather as a consequence of what really makes the MR3 an exceptional reel for playing large salmon. That is the near infinite drag adjustment range and the amazingly smooth buttery drag. It does not use drag washers like you will find in many similar reels, but rather a very large, cork covered lubed clutch. No other reel of it’s type, other than the MR2, will in my opinion match it for its ability to wear down an exceptionally large salmon with heavy SMOOTH resistance. I have not yet tried an Islander TR3.
When many other similar reels are set on heavy drag for big Chinook, there is a lot of initial resistance to getting it to start playing out line as the fish begins to try and run. This causes the fish to tend to jerk at the line and reel to get the reel to begin playing out line which can increase the possibility that it will pull out the hook and over a long battle that jerkiness also increases the likelihood that the fish will open up or wear a hole in the flesh around the hook which makes it easier for the hook to slide out late in the fight, especially since barbed hooks are no longer permitted. If you fish braid without the shock absorbing characteristics of mono, reel drag smoothness is even more important.
The heavy smooth drag of an MR3 wears them down quickly but does not tend to help the fish pull the hook when it wants to start up on each new run and decreases the chances it will do the twisty and head shaking stuff rather than start up a new run which also decreases the chance it will throw the hook. The more the salmon can make niece smooth multiple runs, the faster it wears itself out. That same run start up smoothness does, however, also make the reel more likely to creep, especially under heavy load.
The near infinite drag adjustment range on the MR3 also insures that you will not lock it down by mistake, which can happen with some other reels, (especially when the drag washers are warn – Shimano comes to mind) resulting in break offs and pulled hooks.
MR3 line creep is easily solved by the use of a “creep keeper” attached to the rigger boom. One is easily made and installed and is nothing more than a very short standard Scotty yellow tipped release clip attached to the rigger boom close to the reel. It is automatic for me to put the release clip on the fishing line close to the MR3 reel. When a fish hits, you do not waste time removing the clip you just pick up the rod fast out of the rod holder and it will pull off the keeper easily and no time is lost fiddling with it. The creep keeper is not necessary all the time but if you fish JDF deep in 6 knot current, having the keeper always attached to the rigger boom and available for use solves the issue. The use of the Keeper also assures that you will not grossly overtighten the drag in an attempt to stop it from creeping.
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