Racor filter for main and kicker?

[uclueletcharters]

With out them how would you know when your racors are full of water before water makes it to your engine? I would be very surprised if you were advised not to have them.

 

[bigdogeh]

Yes, I like to be able to glance at the bowls and see purple or marked fuel. If I see any clear I can drain it off. Fortunately have seen very little if any clear most times when I check.

 

[casper5280]

I have the racors with clear cups and bleeders also in the engine compartments with the twin diesels. Came from the factory like that. I have a survey coming up so will be interesting to see if that is an issue that is brought up...

With diesel I don't think there is a problem. I believe it's just gas engines because gas is more flammable than diesel.

 

[Rockfish]

With out them how would you know when your racors are full of water before water makes it to your engine? I would be very surprised if you were advised not to have them.

Very simple, you open the drain periodically and if water comes out you know and if its fuel you are OK. Only takes a few seconds longer than looking at a clear bowl but not as convenient. Keep in mind that the Racor is only the first filter in the system, at least with mine, as the main 225 outboard motor also has a large fuel filter/separator built into it which needs to be changed when servicing the motor.

My own view is that it is not normal for water to frequently end up in the separator in a good working supply system. If that happens it means there is a problem.

The most likely suspect is the fuel cap assembly letting in rain and spray as they can wear over time, leak and need to be swapped out. Keep them screwed in tight and don't forget to replace them after fueling.
Beyond that, keep the metal tank full as much as possible, especially for storage to prevent condensation and check the hull vent for defect, or poor installation angle. If water is getting in from a corrosion hole in the bottom end of the tank you have bigger problems and should be able to see and smell fuel in the bilge. Not to mention you should not have much water in the bilge in contact with the tank anyway.

 

[bigdogeh]

Check the o-rings on your fuel caps periodically as well. They tend to form cracks over time. I try to change mine out every 2 or 3 years... but always look at them for condition when I fuel up.

 

[agentaqua]

I also like having the redundancy of completely separate fuel supply systems for each motor, with duel Racors. It is reassuring to know that if the supply system for one motor fails in less than ideal circumstances, that the other motor is likely still going to run and you are not constantly messing around with fuel distribution valves.

ABSOLUTELY! and Hallelujah, Rockfish! Couldn't agree more strongly.

If you anticipate going out onto the salt chuck - instead of a much calmer lake - ABSOLUTELY A MUST! When you get out into the rougher stuff - the crap on the bottom of your tanks gets stirred-up. If you have twin Racors (and switching valves) - you can deal with this. Read here to see what can happen if you do not: http://www.bst-tsb.gc.ca/eng/rapports-reports/marine/1994/m94w0010/m94w0010.asp?pedisable=true

 

[Wild Bill]

Racor service bulletin Re: ethanol and leaking bowls. http://www.parker.com/Literature/Racor/Service/EB00033_Marine_Gasoline_Spin-on_Filters.pdf

 

[Rockfish]

Racor service bulletin Re: ethanol and leaking bowls. http://www.parker.com/Literature/Racor/Service/EB00033_Marine_Gasoline_Spin-on_Filters.pdf

Thanks for posting. As far as I know the Marine Mid Grade Gas at our fuel dock does not have Ethanol.

From personal experience there is something else to watch for on the Racors. The head unit (the part the filter attaches to) is painted Aluminum - at least with the model we are using. If the paint is breached, even a little, corrosion can start, forming white powder under the paint which can progress to the point where the filter will no longer seal. In our case the filters are down in the bilge which is usually a little wet and the boat was equipped with a raw water (salt water) wash down system which increases the likelihood of the corrosion problem setting in. Inspect them carefully, especially when changing the filter. We ended up replacing both head units which were about six years old at the time. I would be willing to pay more for them if the head unit was made out of quality marine stainless or perhaps bronze, rather than painted Al.

 

[mbowers]

As Rockfish said the outboard should have another water separating filter. In fact Mercury recommends not installing an external filter (Racor) because it increases the pressure drop on the fuel and can starve the engine. I added a Racor anyway but to minimize pressure drop, I made sure there are no 90deg fittings in the lines, just straight fittings and gradual bends in the line to make it around corners.

There are A and B grade fuel lines. B is not fire rated and should never be used below deck with gasoline but a cheap boat builder like mine will use it below deck because nobody actually checks what boat builders are doing in the US. It's all buyer beware.

If you want a stainless top for your filters, try looking at Sierra.

https://www.amazon.ca/Sierra-International-18-7776-Stainless-Separator/dp/B000N9LF98

 

[mbowers]

Oh and water in your fuel is very unlikely to be condensation, it's probably coming from somewhere else..

http://www.yachtsurvey.com/myth_of_condensation_in_fuel_tanks.htm