Portable Gas Tank Question......

Seafever

Well-Known Member
I have a Quicksilver 25 litre portable gas tank...

It is "pressurized' type. Has a valve configuration on the line between tank and engine.

It tends to expand and contract in the heat as it is also made of polyetheline plastic or something similar.....

After Googling them ...turns out they are fairly pricey. (Mine came with the boat).

Been looking for an extra tank....lots of tanks around but they aren't pressurized and I've read some horror reviews of persons using non-pressurized and having gas spew all over the place at times....
Any other good brands out there besides Quicksilver that makes 25 litre pressurized type?
And what are your experiences with the old-school non-pressurized type?
I think it was back in 2011 the EPA in the States mandated the use of pressurized......but this is Canada and I have no idea what they mandated here.......
 
I know one time I didn't have the valve open on my plastic Yamaha tank and it pressured up and push gas up the line and through the carb and out. I had a small puddle in my deivewAy before I noticed and open the valve. Lucky I guess or something bad may have happened.
 
Looking at that valve, in the fuel line, it appears to be nothing more than a pressure reduction valve. In your position l might be tempted to pick up a used non pressurized tank with compatable fittings and a new primer bulb but omiting that valve and try it out. I don''t think the fuel system requires fuel to be pressurized before it gets to the engine, the engine will have the necessary pumps on it to satisfy any requirements the carb/injectors may require. I too have left the vent closed, but it was while running, and the result was a partially collapsed fuel tank, and an engine that lost power.
 
From what I'm reading on the bet:-

The valve is a device to keep the pressure at 5 psi.

This Quicksilver tank also has a manual vent on the cap.....which they say should be "open" when running and "closed" when not in use.

How it stays pressurized when it's "open" for running is a mystery to me.

There is a boxy compartment on my boat for a gas tank. I put it in there to keep it out of the sun and also to save space. The tank fits in there with almost no room to spare.

But warmer ambient air temp will make it expand and then it is often hard to get it in and out of there......which I have to do because if I'm travelling to a location then the vent is "closed" and when I get there and unload the boat I have to "open" the vent in the cap for running.

I don't want any gas spilling around the bottom of the boat while I'm towing...

From your answers (thank you), it appears that it is strictly optional whether a person wants to use a pressurized tank or not.

Now that I think about it......what is the advantage of a 'pressurized' tank system anyway?

What brand do you people use or recommend for portable tanks? The ones I'm looking at online in the local go-to places seem to be a little on the flimsy side in construction...

Metal tanks don't expand as much as the newer polyvinyl tanks that are around now.

Guess they're a thing of the past.......I don't see any of those for sale around new.
 
Hadn't heard of these either, but appears to only be EPA requirement in US since 2011. Don't know about Cdn regulations.
Copied the following off a Bass-Pro web site. http://blogs.basspro.com/blog/boat-gas-tanks


In the past if you needed a second gas tank to put on your boat so you could get the extra fishing time in, or just have it in case you ran out of gas in the primary tank, you could just run down to Bass Pro Shops and grab one off the shelf, like this Moeller Tank;

then find the correct fuel line attachment, and away you went. Well in 2011 the E.P.A changed the way fuel tanks are made to make them friendlier to the environment. Now, even with the vent open, the fuel tanks will hold 5 PSI of pressure, and boats manufactured before 2011 do not have a fuel demand valve to prevent that pressurized tank from forcing fuel into the engine when it is not needed. This can cause running issues as well as fuel leaking onto the ground or into the water depending on where your boat is parked. This is especially true of Mercury 75-115HP fourstoke engines and all Mercury Verado engines since they do not have a “needle and seat” shut off valve in the internal fuel system on the engine. With that being said, other motors that utilize the “needle and seat” system on their motors are still susceptible to having that excess fuel pressure unseating the needle and causing fuel to overflow. So if you buy a new gas tank and your boat is older than 2011, you now also need to purchase a fuel demand valve (pictured below)



and install it in the fuel line between the fuel tank and the primer bulb, with the fuel flowing in the correct direction (there is an arrow to show you this). For more on fuels check out these service tips on gasoline.
- See more at: http://blogs.basspro.com/blog/boat-gas-tanks#sthash.SeYNoOaX.dpuf



Also, a NMMA posting. http://www.nmma.org/assets/cabinets...Announcement Portable Tanks JUN2012 Final.pdf


Industry Service Announcement

Tank swelling will occur and is associated with a New “Low Permeation Compliant” Portable Outboard Marine Fuel Tank!!!
Many boaters this year are seeing swelling of their new portable outboard fuel tanks, which they have not seen in the past. New EPA regulations have eliminated the traditional venting in these tanks. New portable outboard marine fuel tanks will not vent below 5 PSI with noticeable swelling.

Tank swelling is the new standard condition as a result of Section 213 of the Clean Air Act implemented by the EPA. All manufacturers of Portable Outboard Marine Fuel Tanks must certify compliancy with the EPA standard: (73 FR 59034, October 8, 2008) 40 CFR Part 1060.

Portable Outboard Marine Fuel Tanks being produced and sold into commerce must be tested and certified to these new requirements. In addition, the tank must meet the ABYC H-25 standard, which is the industry design safety standard for these increased pressures.

Since the manufacture of the “old style” twist vent caps are now banned, a newly designed cap is required. The new caps must have: a tether, provide an audible “click “for closure, and seal up to 5 PSI out, but allow vacuum in. Plus the cap needs an external or integrated means to temporarily relieve pressure within the tank prior to fuel filling or connection to the engine.

The new compliant cap will cause the portable outboard marine fuel tanks to swell. The swelling is a result of the fuel vapor building pressure, because the cap must stay sealed up to 5 PSI. Some tanks may vent to atmosphere when pressure reaches 5.1 PSI, some remain sealed beyond 5PSI. All tanks must remain sealed beyond 5PSI during storage and transportation.

The new tanks have been tested to remain sealed and safe at these pressures even when swelling is visible.

Additionally there are two other cautions for the user:

1. Fuel Spray
Fuel spray is a very dangerous event that can result from the fuel vapor building pressure within the portable outboard marine fuel tank. Users should relieve all fuel pressure within the tank prior to disconnecting or connecting fuel fittings in order to avoid fuel spray. New portable
outboard marine fuel tanks include means to relieve pressure prior to filling or connecting fuel
fittings.

2. Engine Flooding and Fuel Spillage

Engine flooding or fuel spillage can occur if a portable outboard marine fuel tank is left
connected to an engine. Users should disconnect fuel lines from engines during storage or
transportation or take other measures to ensure that pressurized fuel does not reach the
engine in accordance with the engine manufacturer’s instructions. Disconnecting the fuel line
from the engine is a simple action users can take to prevent engine flooding and fuel spillage.
Be sure to read the manufacture supplied operation information that comes with each
portable outboard marine fuel tank!
 
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