nootkaassassin
Well-Known Member
I wouldn’t cut the rings off I would cut the hook off and leave the ring and add an open eye hook on. I would also avoid tying line to a spilt ring..
Polishing old commercial salmon spoons
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Aquaholic
Crew Member
I wasn’t suggesting you remove the ring where you tie the line to, just where the hook attaches.
ship happens
Crew Member
I would never feel good about cutting of a welded ring to use a split ring. 100 percent agree if you wanna polish on a wheel cut the hook. Most spoons need better hooks anyway.
nootkaassassin
Well-Known Member
Gramps used the duranickel needle point (Lew Morrison) on the OG spoons. Don’t think you can find them now
ship happens
Crew Member
Well at least they use good hooks, same with peetz. They were just lazy and didnt make welded rings 
RiverBoy
Well-Known Member
the one and only downside of AP is the split ring at the nose IMO
I always add a quality swivel to the nose on AP spoons I rarely use a flasher so I am not worried about loosing action.
ship happens
Crew Member
Used to say spoonbrite Used to also say what it contains. Somthing along the lines of sodium chromate or somthing along those lines.
ship happens
Crew Member
Not the greatest example but this tom mack had a little bit of stains and some green starting to happen. Real quick rub down and it's bling bling.
Thanks a lot for the name of the stuff, Redfisher. My memory's not so good anymore. At least I got a few of the letters right!
If it has sodium chromate, look what Wikipedia says:
"As with other Cr(VI) compounds, sodium chromate is carcinogenic.[6] The compound is also corrosive and exposure may produce severe eye damage or blindness.[7] Human exposure further encompasses impaired fertility, heritable genetic damage and harm to unborn children."
Sodium chromate - Wikipedia
Gloves and goggles might be a good idea when using that stuff.
ship happens
Crew Member
If it has sodium chromate, look what Wikipedia says:
"As with other Cr(VI) compounds, sodium chromate is carcinogenic.[6] The compound is also corrosive and exposure may produce severe eye damage or blindness.[7] Human exposure further encompasses impaired fertility, heritable genetic damage and harm to unborn children."
Sodium chromate - Wikipedia
en.wikipedia.org
Gloves and goggles might be a good idea when using that stuff.
maybe that's why it's not for sale anymore lol
Dorman Point
Well-Known Member
We used Wenol on stainless and chrome fittings when I detailed boats back in university days. It really polishes up beautifully, excellent product to bring back stainless railings that haven’t been polished in a while.
Dave H
Well-Known Member
Love your last sentence description, even though it sounds almost "dirty" for some reason. LOL
Take care.
My FIL was given a large quantity of old spoons...off the top of my head Superiors 5/7/8, Tom Mack 6/6.5/8, LJ Wonder 7, JHS 6/7. Plus a couple of onesy twosy outliers...McKnight, LG Johnson (smaller sizes), and others. Colors are brass, 50/50 brass copper, and gold bronze.
Red bear is the best for the first stage of polishing, and flitz for the final. I've not tried any chemical pretreat for the really corroded ones but will try the ammonia/water trick this winter.
They work. Boy do they work. We brought home possession limits this year for quite a few folks from a week at WH, and 90% of those were on identical two of these big old spoons. Troll one at 190 and the other at 220 outside. More than a few doubles. Way nicer to fish offshore than the flasher/skinnyg that everyone else was using, and no cohos. I like plugs too, but these troll better at a bit lower speed than what plugs like, with less blowback.
These all need some sort of carbon steel attached to them as an anode. I use the big hairy blued mustad siwash hooks, and find that the #8 spoons could use an even bigger hook than the biggest 8/0 95151 3x blued mustad. Don't use a SS hook unless you have a separate CS or aluminum "jump ring" (see ebay...chainmail accessory) crimped to one of the end rings. I bend a *slight* beak into the hook tip, and bend a *slight* offset into the hook. Not many lost fish with these.
Overnight storage on the boat...I fill a nalgene 1qt (1L for you metric types) with saltwater and throw them in. This will leave them a bit clouded and the hooks rusty, but you can easily wipe away the dull cloud with a cotton t-shirt or dry paper towel, and the rust on the hook disappears after it fishes for a bit. They always come back out of the water shiny with a dull black hook. I'm sure there's a better way (hydrotone etc.) but this works for me. Have also read in one of the old-timey troller books to put them in a galvanized bucket full of saltwater when not in use. I've used same spoon/hook for several trips, with no hook breaks or issues. Like I said, they might look rusty, but wipe off the loose rust and put them in the water, the hooks turn black again quickly. No problem keeping them sharp with a file.
I'm looking for a large bare or blued steel hook alternative to the 8/0 3X mustads mentioned above if y'all have any better ideas. The spoon lot came with some VERY large ones, probably a 10/0 in a similar shape to these newer mustads, but very few of them. I've had best luck with the size 7 spoons due to the 8's being a bit tail-waggy with the same hooks. The 7s swim very nicely.
Red bear is the best for the first stage of polishing, and flitz for the final. I've not tried any chemical pretreat for the really corroded ones but will try the ammonia/water trick this winter.
They work. Boy do they work. We brought home possession limits this year for quite a few folks from a week at WH, and 90% of those were on identical two of these big old spoons. Troll one at 190 and the other at 220 outside. More than a few doubles. Way nicer to fish offshore than the flasher/skinnyg that everyone else was using, and no cohos. I like plugs too, but these troll better at a bit lower speed than what plugs like, with less blowback.
These all need some sort of carbon steel attached to them as an anode. I use the big hairy blued mustad siwash hooks, and find that the #8 spoons could use an even bigger hook than the biggest 8/0 95151 3x blued mustad. Don't use a SS hook unless you have a separate CS or aluminum "jump ring" (see ebay...chainmail accessory) crimped to one of the end rings. I bend a *slight* beak into the hook tip, and bend a *slight* offset into the hook. Not many lost fish with these.
Overnight storage on the boat...I fill a nalgene 1qt (1L for you metric types) with saltwater and throw them in. This will leave them a bit clouded and the hooks rusty, but you can easily wipe away the dull cloud with a cotton t-shirt or dry paper towel, and the rust on the hook disappears after it fishes for a bit. They always come back out of the water shiny with a dull black hook. I'm sure there's a better way (hydrotone etc.) but this works for me. Have also read in one of the old-timey troller books to put them in a galvanized bucket full of saltwater when not in use. I've used same spoon/hook for several trips, with no hook breaks or issues. Like I said, they might look rusty, but wipe off the loose rust and put them in the water, the hooks turn black again quickly. No problem keeping them sharp with a file.
I'm looking for a large bare or blued steel hook alternative to the 8/0 3X mustads mentioned above if y'all have any better ideas. The spoon lot came with some VERY large ones, probably a 10/0 in a similar shape to these newer mustads, but very few of them. I've had best luck with the size 7 spoons due to the 8's being a bit tail-waggy with the same hooks. The 7s swim very nicely.
I may have some winter work for you
SpringVelocity
Crew Member
I think ultrasonic cleaner would be my vote. I am looking to get one soon. Vevor sells then now.
I used them for years in dental Industry. I seen them work magic on all types of metal. They have a specific brass cleaning solution I believe.
I used them for years in dental Industry. I seen them work magic on all types of metal. They have a specific brass cleaning solution I believe.
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