Outboard Power for 21’ walkaround

uclueletcharters said:
Beauty job boat looks sharp, love those hardtop models. Yours is a longer hull so doesn’t suffer from the same squat issues stock as the 20ft models. Full floater would help a 20ft no doubt.
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Not my boat just a pod built for a customer I have done a 21 as well for that exact reason the original pod was not large enough and the deck wouldn’t drain properly at rest.
 
Brando said:
These boats need a full flotation pod. There’s calculations for buoyancy you can do it yourself or have someone do it for you. Not hard to build a bracket that can support a new outboard and keep the deck self bailing.
Would also recommend you have the inside of the transom plated and knee braced to the old motor mount location as the transoms on these boats are not designed for the extra weight.
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Thats a good point re: old motor mounts, I believe my guy mentioned that, as well as lots of buoyancy, you can always ballast it down if you have to. As for weight, I still can't believe the Merc 250 V8 is only 527lbs. I've thought of the self-bailing deck scuppers as an issue, always thought they were too close to the water line. Buddy says he runs it all through a marine engineer so I think I'm covering all my bases, but thx for the info all good considerations.
 
In the past we have relocated the portside battery up front, while adding weight to the bow, ball scuppers, and no more then a 420 lb main engine with the lightest kicker possible. Mind you this is the outboard version of the same boat, however you will gain flotation as @Brando stated. That being said it still a 20 ft boat. I would stick to a 175 or 200 platform. That hull will cruise at 28 mph no problem with great efficiency.
 
ship happens said:
In the past we have relocated the portside battery up front, while adding weight to the bow, ball scuppers, and no more then a 420 lb main engine with the lightest kicker possible. Mind you this is the outboard version of the same boat, however you will gain flotation as @Brando stated. That being said it still a 20 ft boat. I would stick to a 175 or 200 platform. That hull will cruise at 28 mph no problem with great efficiency.
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Ball scuppers were a must and I too moved house battery up into cuddy under step. Made a huge difference when negotiating swell. And lightened butt end.
 
uclueletcharters said:
You definitely want to pay attention to weight. The rear scuppers are low on the hull. I have seen a couple 20 trophies sunk at dock due to to much squat from a heavy engine and one way scuppers failing due to that fact. If you go bigger heavier power make sure it’s a full floater pod to help. Like a poster said they are light boats. The ones I was on with 175 2 strokes went really good no issue with not enough power. Probably not the best hull to try and create a 50 mph plus boat. In big seas if you push them to hard spidering will happen. My dads newer 20 with 4.3 spidered we did a couple trips to big bank in shortish deep swells so it was digging in pretty good when putting on trailer noticed some fresh spidering on hull. Great all around boats at great price but I myself would stay around spec power for those hulls there’s a reason for a hp max rating.
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Big difference between to older Trophy Hulls vs the Next Gen Hulls. His an '06 Pro, so the boat actually sits higher in the stern and the scuppers are moved up also. So water coming in through the scuppers when you are in the back corner of the boat doesn't happen anymore. My buddy had an older trophy (90's) and it was bad for that. I don't ever have that problem with mine (00' +).
 
rockdog said:
Big difference between to older Trophy Hulls vs the Next Gen Hulls. His an '06 Pro, so the boat actually sits higher in the stern and the scuppers are moved up also. So water coming in through the scuppers when you are in the back corner of the boat doesn't happen anymore. My buddy had an older trophy (90's) and it was bad for that. I don't ever have that problem with mine (00' +).
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While all of that is 100 percent true the hull is basically the same displacement. Same beam, same modified V hull basically. At the moment hes got probly around 150hp at the wheel maybe you can say hes got 175 hp at the wheel as a generous estimation. All they did was riase the freeboard and deck height a little bit and made some modern improvements. Outboards are HP rated at the prop. 200 HP will be plenty for any 20ft boat.
 
rockdog said:
Big difference between to older Trophy Hulls vs the Next Gen Hulls. His an '06 Pro, so the boat actually sits higher in the stern and the scuppers are moved up also. So water coming in through the scuppers when you are in the back corner of the boat doesn't happen anymore. My buddy had an older trophy (90's) and it was bad for that. I don't ever have that problem with mine (00' +).
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Interesting enough I water tested an 06 trophy 20 foot last year and it squated so bad the water was coming in over the transom and into the splash well !!!! While at rest.
It had a heavy 150 verado on it. Overall was a minty beautiful boat. 60 k!!! I had to run away.
 
ship happens said:
While all of that is 100 percent true the hull is basically the same displacement. Same beam, same modified V hull basically. At the moment hes got probly around 150hp at the wheel maybe you can say hes got 175 hp at the wheel as a generous estimation. All they did was riase the freeboard and deck height a little bit and made some modern improvements. Outboards are HP rated at the prop. 200 HP will be plenty for any 20ft boat.
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Would be handy to know exactly what I have at the prop now, somewhere between 150-175 as you say, I would guess. So in theory 200hp would push me from underpowered to ample power. I like the battery relocation idea also, that's smart I will likely do that.
Always wondered why the boat's model # is "2052" (and 2002 for the factory OB model)... the boat is 21'7" in length (as listed and confirmed measured) from bow tip to stern, not including swim grid.
 
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A-a-Ron said:
Would be handy to know exactly what I have at the prop now, somewhere between 150-175 as you say, I would guess. So in theory 200hp would push me from underpowered to ample power. I like the battery relocation idea also, that's smart I will likely do that.
Always wondered why the boat's model # is "2052" (and 2050 for the factory OB model)... the boat is 21'7" in length (as listed and confirmed measured) from bow tip to stern, not including swim grid.
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The thing when moving batteries is does it offset the kicker weight? If it does and you relocate the batteries the boat will list at rest which isn’t ideal. And unless you have tabs on slow plane the boat will lean heavier in some cases.
 
A-a-Ron said:
Would be handy to know exactly what I have at the prop now, somewhere between 150-175 as you say, I would guess. So in theory 200hp would push me from underpowered to ample power. I like the battery relocation idea also, that's smart I will likely do that.
Always wondered why the boat's model # is "2052" (and 2050 for the factory OB model)... the boat is 21'7" in length (as listed and confirmed measured) from bow tip to stern, not including swim grid.
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There's two ways to measure a boat.
LOA (length Overall) or LBP ( length between perpendiculars) LBP was the old way in the pleasure boat world and the official measurement for registering, seems it's more profitable to sell boats by the LOA, thats what you see these days
The LBP was a measurement from the rudder stock to the intersection of the waterline at the bow if I recall correctly.
 
A-a-Ron said:
Would be handy to know exactly what I have at the prop now, somewhere between 150-175 as you say, I would guess. So in theory 200hp would push me from underpowered to ample power. I like the battery relocation idea also, that's smart I will likely do that.
Always wondered why the boat's model # is "2052" (and 2050 for the factory OB model)... the boat is 21'7" in length (as listed and confirmed measured) from bow tip to stern, not including swim grid.
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Yep you got it. The reason that you can go with an etec in the 150 or 175 and have plenty of power is because the etec is a powerhouse that makes its torque and hp almost instantly. The curve go straight up throughout the rpm range, where as four-strokes do not. Mercury has been trying to solve that for a long time with their supercharged engines. However they **** the bed imo with their steering system that draws 10 amps all the time and the extra 200 lbs of weight makes it almost impossible to repower old boats with that are in the 20 21ft range. We're in a wierd time right now with power and technology.
 
ship happens said:
Yep you got it. The reason that you can go with an etec in the 150 or 175 and have plenty of power is because the etec is a powerhouse that makes its torque and hp almost instantly. The curve go straight up throughout the rpm range, where as four-strokes do not. Mercury has been trying to solve that for a long time with their supercharged engines. However they **** the bed imo with their steering system that draws 10 amps all the time and the extra 200 lbs of weight makes it almost impossible to repower old boats with that are in the 20 21ft range. We're in a wierd time right now with power and technology.
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💯 %
 
Posting a couple swim grid pics for @rockdog dont know why pics dont work in DM
 

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ship happens said:
Yep you got it. The reason that you can go with an etec in the 150 or 175 and have plenty of power is because the etec is a powerhouse that makes its torque and hp almost instantly. The curve go straight up throughout the rpm range, where as four-strokes do not. Mercury has been trying to solve that for a long time with their supercharged engines. However they **** the bed imo with their steering system that draws 10 amps all the time and the extra 200 lbs of weight makes it almost impossible to repower old boats with that are in the 20 21ft range. We're in a wierd time right now with power and technology.
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Etec G2 150 hp is the largest of the inline triple series, weighs 400 lb +/- depending on options and shaft length. Power to weight is best in class, and as you say they make their torque right out of the hole. Maintenance costs should be low with only 3 spark plugs to change and 3 injectors to clean.

Might find the odd new one at a dealer but probably were all blown out after production ended in 2020. Newish used ones will have lots of warranty and BRP are still making parts.
 
sly_karma said:
Etec G2 150 hp is the largest of the inline triple series, weighs 400 lb +/- depending on options and shaft length. Power to weight is best in class, and as you say they make their torque right out of the hole. Maintenance costs should be low with only 3 spark plugs to change and 3 injectors to clean.

Might find the odd new one at a dealer but probably were all blown out after production ended in 2020. Newish used ones will have lots of warranty and BRP are still making parts.
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G2 is a piece of ****. I have some gen ones still ;)
 
Well it’s happening. I’ll take pics along the way and make a little video of the process at the end (in theory I will…) maybe post another feed with progress for those who want to follow along. Hope to be done by March to catch some winters before we get shut down again April 1.

Never been an Evinrude fan, my buddy has dual 200’s and they’re good for him, but gotta stick to Yammy or Merc for local service etc, among other reasons.

Thanks all for the input.
 
ship happens said:
G2 is a piece of ****. I have some gen ones still ;)
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I haven't had my hands on a G2 yet. The techs on the Etec owners group rave about the G2 triple series, less complimentary about the larger motors.
 
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