I have 2 downrigger weights, one 12# on 15#. The weights have rings to attach the clips to. I am thinking I should clip the releases slightly above the weights rather than directly to them. How far above the weights should I place the clip and how long of releases should I use to fish in Sooke. Thank you.
New to downriggers in Sooke
- Thread starter opto55
- Start date
Fisherman Rob
Well-Known Member
Yes, the clips attach to your DR wire just above the weight:
See Scotty DR manual for setup here:
http://www.scotty.com/scotty-support/documents/ED_ManualRev1007.pdf
See Scotty DR manual for setup here:
http://www.scotty.com/scotty-support/documents/ED_ManualRev1007.pdf
fish brain
Crew Member
I rig it so the ball stays in the water when fully retrieved, and reach over the side a comfortable distance and place the clip somewhere between the water and the downrigger arm. pretty much as in the diagram above.
Fisherman Rob
Well-Known Member
Also, unless I miss-understand what you mean by "The weights have rings to attach the clips to...", that is not what the rings are for. The second ring is for attaching a dummy flasher.
Hi opto55. There are lot's of ways to do this. All are similar to the 2 illustrations above. The above illustration shows using a dummy flasher. If you do not use a dummy flasher the release clip can & probably should be just above the ball. As far as release clip length, ideal is a length so that you can set the stops so that the ball is just below the water surface (keeps the ball from crashing into stuff) and you can get ahold of the release clip (long arms, modified gaff hook, whatever), and clip the line into the release without bringing the ball out of the water. Depending on down rigger boom length, the release clip length will be 3-6 feet. I have been making-up my own clips using at least 200b mono (easier on the hands) as the original one's from years back were 12" of SS wire.
Here is what I use:
Silver Horde/Goldstar plastic snubber 2-4 ft long clips to ball. The end of plastic snubber (shock absorber, easy on the hands) clips to lower end of Silver Horde/Goldstar down rigger rudder. Upper end of rudder clips to the cable swivel snap. Release clip clips to 3rd attachment of rudder.
For a false flasher, add some cord to the snubber to get a 6 ft length between release & ball.
I have only fished Sooke a few days, but I get the impression it is never a "wide-open bite". Back in the day at Ucluelet we could put a 16 fish limit in the boat in under an hour - that's a wide-open Salmon bite.
That said, a false flasher is probably a good idea.
Some other tips:
When clipping-in, twist the main line & clip onto the twist - other wise the main line will fray.
If you are not fishing real close to the bottom, you can just thumb the spool & drop the ball 10 feet or so to come out of the release.
Always reel slack before setting the hook using a smooth motion - I reel till the rod tip is in the water while bent over, then just use my back, not arms to set the hook.
If you want the get all the slack out before starting to troll, take the boat outta gear, reel-in the slack, then back in gear.
If the crew is poor at setting the hook, hot the throttle a bit to set the hook - just don't slow down till the angler has control of the rod & tension on the fish.
Here is what I use:
Silver Horde/Goldstar plastic snubber 2-4 ft long clips to ball. The end of plastic snubber (shock absorber, easy on the hands) clips to lower end of Silver Horde/Goldstar down rigger rudder. Upper end of rudder clips to the cable swivel snap. Release clip clips to 3rd attachment of rudder.
For a false flasher, add some cord to the snubber to get a 6 ft length between release & ball.
I have only fished Sooke a few days, but I get the impression it is never a "wide-open bite". Back in the day at Ucluelet we could put a 16 fish limit in the boat in under an hour - that's a wide-open Salmon bite.
That said, a false flasher is probably a good idea.
Some other tips:
When clipping-in, twist the main line & clip onto the twist - other wise the main line will fray.
If you are not fishing real close to the bottom, you can just thumb the spool & drop the ball 10 feet or so to come out of the release.
Always reel slack before setting the hook using a smooth motion - I reel till the rod tip is in the water while bent over, then just use my back, not arms to set the hook.
If you want the get all the slack out before starting to troll, take the boat outta gear, reel-in the slack, then back in gear.
If the crew is poor at setting the hook, hot the throttle a bit to set the hook - just don't slow down till the angler has control of the rod & tension on the fish.
Thank you fish brain. I had no idea how to set that up. Do you think I should get a snubber to attach the downrigger weight to? Also, how do I attach the release clips to the line so they stay in the same position. I looked at the release clips that came with the Scotty downriggers. They seem short 18 inches. Should I get some 36 inch release clips? Do I need another apparatus to attach to the downrigger wire? Any other information would be great.
Thank you.
Thank you.
SpringVelocity
Crew Member
Opto go into Trotac and see Trevor or one of the guys they will go over with you. Sometimes its better to see it visually before you head out. Good luck. I personally dont use all these snubbers etc. there not really needed.
RiverBoy
Well-Known Member
I run snubbers between my DR line and my weights. Acts as a shock absorber. Few years ago I got my cannon stuck on bottom while trolling and it took a while to get free. The snubber stretched out a bit but didn't snap.
Get longer release clips. Depending on size of boat and to be able to reach them I would go minimum 36" I personally use 48"
Remember that the clips have two tension settings, if you are running deep lines you will want to adjust the tension in the clip.
Get longer release clips. Depending on size of boat and to be able to reach them I would go minimum 36" I personally use 48"
Remember that the clips have two tension settings, if you are running deep lines you will want to adjust the tension in the clip.
fish brain
Crew Member
There is a little black dooie on the top of the clip. it slides up and down. up for more tension down for less.
Re putting the clip on the line
When you squeeze the clip you get a single wire and a double wire. bury the cable the double wire side and let the single wire be the tensioner if that makes any sense.
like Spring Velocity ,I do not use a snubber. I use ganjon cord because its cheap. I make sure to set the brake on my down rigger so that I can pull out the line with the cannonball attached by hand. that way when you do hook bottom the line will spool out and you have time to reposition the boat to retrieve it.
Re putting the clip on the line
When you squeeze the clip you get a single wire and a double wire. bury the cable the double wire side and let the single wire be the tensioner if that makes any sense.
like Spring Velocity ,I do not use a snubber. I use ganjon cord because its cheap. I make sure to set the brake on my down rigger so that I can pull out the line with the cannonball attached by hand. that way when you do hook bottom the line will spool out and you have time to reposition the boat to retrieve it.
Attachments
Team Black Dog
Member
We use the scotty auto stop beads and put an extra one where you want your release clip to stay. That way the clip wont slide up your line. They have seperate beads designed for braid or steel wire.
Filletandrelease
Well-Known Member
I make up my own release clips with .065 weed wacker line. The Scottie dbl crimps work on this line. I like them around 4 feet long.
fish brain
Crew Member
There is a little black dooie on the top of the clip. it slides up and down. up for more tension down for less.
Re putting the clip on the line
When you squeeze the clip you get a single wire and a double wire. bury the cable the double wire side and let the single wire be the tensioner if that makes any sense.
like Spring Velocity ,I do not use a snubber. I use ganjon cord because its cheap. I make sure to set the brake on my down rigger so that I can pull out the line with the cannonball attached by hand. that way when you do hook bottom the line will spool out and you have time to reposition the boat to retrieve it.
If you choose to use ganjion cord tie a swivel to your down rigger line (assuming you are using braid) then measure enough ganjion(not sure of the spelling here) to reach the water when doubled up then tie a knot in it and loop it through the swivel, the swivel then becomes your stopper. Use the same process to attach the cannon ball. the knot end goes to the cannon ball so the line can travel smoothly through the pulley
scott craven
Well-Known Member
fish brain
Crew Member
As you can tell there are as many ways to rig this as there are fishermen. If you are in Sooke I would contact Wolf. If you happen to be in the Cowichan Valley I would be happy to pop by and point you in the right direction
