Malibu Tyee Project

[salmonkiller01]

If the outer stringer are covered in heavy glass I would not be too concerned however you won’t know until you open it up.

Fill the cavity between inner and outer with expanding foam, put a couple weep holes in main stringers and it should be good forever.
Foam will quiet the ride and add stiffness. Ultimately if the outer stringers are covered in glass on a small boat. The glass is stronger than the wood and gives the stiffness

But the worst is it will always be on your mind! It would drive me nuts

 

[Flybridge]

Well my update is I didn’t tear up the entire floor. I did replace the port main stringer, and added some fiberglass to the starboard stringer and the center keel portion of the boat (probably didn’t need it but it feels really solid now!) finished up by re gel-coating bildge. The floor is dry as a bone and starboard side is in perfect shape. When the floor fails I’ll redo all stringers and floor.

Also added the stringers to the pod. 1.5” coosa (left over from other project). Getting closer!

 

[Flybridge]

Things are slowly progressing.

Need some input. Do you think I need to add plywood and throughbolts to clamp the pod to the transom?

The stringers run though the transom, into the hull of the boat and tie into the main stringers. The pod is also fully glassed to the transom with some really thick, and progressive tabbing. Theoretically most the load is on the stringers and distributed up the hull.

The pod feels solid as a rock, but getting to the point of no return. Just want to make sure this thing is bulletproof for when I’m out in the weather

 

[salmonkiller01]

Yes put 1.5” coring minimum. Plywood, coosa……. Imo

 

[Flashman]

How did you do the under side joint to the hull? Did you grind it out and lay glass over the joint?

I wouldn't bother bolting it. With the pod tabbed into the transom, unless you run bolts through the tabbing really close to the T joints there won't be any force transferred to bolts anyhow. It won't behave like a stand alone pod bolted to the transom.

I built mine very similar to yours, no bolts. It's got about 600 hrs on it, and fair bit of hard running. Only problem I've had was cracks on the top of my transom where I got lazy and didn't grind out some over cuts from when I removed the old transom core. That was unrelated to how the pod connects to the hull and a problem you won't have.

What's your plan for a lid? Are you going to tab the lid into the transom the same way you have done the rest? I would recommend it.

 

[Flybridge]

Flashman, Yes I ground down the joint between the bottom of pod, and bottom of hull. Added 3" wide 1708, 8" wide 1708, and a layer of chop strand. Then sanded smooth (still need to gelcoat).

The Pod lid (swim platform) will be glassed on both sides, then stuck down to pod with thickened resin, then tabbed to pod, and transom.

How big is your boat and what sized motor?

Salmon Killer, I may just through in some 3/4 and through bolt it.

Definitely dont want to learn the hard way, but also I feel like its pretty bullet proof as is..... Hmm....

 

[Rain City]

Flashman, Yes I ground down the joint between the bottom of pod, and bottom of hull. Added 3" wide 1708, 8" wide 1708, and a layer of chop strand. Then sanded smooth (still need to gelcoat).

The Pod lid (swim platform) will be glassed on both sides, then stuck down to pod with thickened resin, then tabbed to pod, and transom.

How big is your boat and what sized motor?

Salmon Killer, I may just through in some 3/4 and through bolt it.

Definitely dont want to learn the hard way, but also I feel like its pretty bullet proof as is..... Hmm....

I agree that there's no way those bolts are doing anything other than making holes and stress points. With all my fiberglass and boat building experience :/

 

[Flashman]

18' Whaler Outrage with a 150hp main and a 9.9 kicker.

Bolts won't hurt. If you do put them in, I would put them near the edges of the pod, no point having them near the center. The highest stress will be right at the outside edges where the pod tabs to the transom. Using the biggest washers you can get and thick enough that they don't dish or bend, ideally drill holes in some 2 or 3 inch wide 1/4" or thicker flat bar or similar will be very good. You want to get the clamping force from the bolts spread out over a large surface area of glass.

You're doing good looking work.

 

[Flybridge]

Thanks, I’ll have to make a call on it sooner than later. Trying to get this thing done and in the water!

Here is a sneak peek of the swim platform

 

[Flybridge]

Progress!
- 37 gal fuel tank installed
- floor patched in
- transom cap/ transom table glassed in

Still need to glass swim platform and finish gel coating everything.

 

[Pineapple Express]

Impressive work. That's gonna be a sweet machine!