loop knot on spoons
- Thread starter CIVANO
- Start date
S
salmon9
Guest
All my spoons have a welded ring or split ring to tie to. The ring allows for the spoon to move more freely. I don't think a loop knot is required if a ring is in place; however, never tried a loop knot tied to a split ring with spoons.
Rum Buddies
Well-Known Member
I agree, if the spoon has a loop then a rapala knot won't change anything - might want to consider putting a split ring in place if your spoon doesn't have a ring.
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C
cliffjumper
Guest
I would suggest if you are using the welded ring, direct tying is ok. If you're using split rings, the line can get chewed & abraded by the split ring, and I would use a snap to the split ring. Tie to the tail end of the snap.
I confess not trolling, and know you'd be trolling & putting a lot less stress & action on your gear than I would. But for casting, tying to a split ring is sure fire lost lures & fish.
McMahon snaps or a duolock clip, or the fairly recent Mustad-style snap with the clip-eye. I've only seen coastal snaps with swivels.
When I use spoons, every one has a sacrifice hook at the head. Last weekend, five landed, all on the head-hook. (I prefer snap-swivels for a better action on the drop.)
Cheers
I confess not trolling, and know you'd be trolling & putting a lot less stress & action on your gear than I would. But for casting, tying to a split ring is sure fire lost lures & fish.
McMahon snaps or a duolock clip, or the fairly recent Mustad-style snap with the clip-eye. I've only seen coastal snaps with swivels.
When I use spoons, every one has a sacrifice hook at the head. Last weekend, five landed, all on the head-hook. (I prefer snap-swivels for a better action on the drop.)
Cheers
Rum Buddies
Well-Known Member
I don't think that's a good idea for a trolling spoon - you have no created 2 pivot points before the spoon which is not how most spoons are intended to be trolled.
You mention casting spoons and a sacrifice hook, is that a hook at the front of the spoon and what are you fishing for?
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C
cliffjumper
Guest
Hi Poppa, as I mentioned, casting's a lot different from trolling. With spoons you want a wobble/flutter, not a full rotation. Trolling with just one pivot works well if you're trolling fast, the spoon won't rotate as easily. And, a single ring works just fine as long as the fish can't twist or shake-off the lure.
Casting, you get a better flutter drop with a double pivot, ring/snap&swivel. I've cut enough line incl braids on split rings that's a cardinal no-no for me. Also, casting is continuously stressing the line/leader with a high-action on the terminal gear which can gob up the works & abrade direct-ties.
I do the sacrifice/head-hook two ways. The hooks are either straight-eye offsets with a short shank, 2/0-3/0, or (thin-wire) Gamy finesse wide-gaps 2/0. As a beach/rock caster, I prefer the Gamys because they'll break on a tough rock-snag & free my lure. They don't let any fish go however.
On buzz bombs, I'll slide the Gamy up the leader, a couple beads at the head of the lure. Almost all hook-ups are on the head-hook.
Deadly Dicks, Zingers & other lead slabs or spoons and some plugs, I tie straight-eye short shanks onto a doubled loop of braid. Palomar knot for the hook, 4-wrap surgeon knot at the tag-end. I loop it through the wire-eye or bottom swivel-eye at the head of the spoon or slab. But never to a split ring. It will abrade or slip into the split, working its' way out. For some plugs, I'll use 7/0 tied on or slipped on the mainline, ahead of how many beads I need to keep the bite open & clear. On a Gotcha, I'll slip it on the mainline ahead of a snap.
The Gamys are great because of the fine wire, open bite and short shank. they're a really strong hook and you can break off 20# line... but not 50#+. Breaking the hook on a rock saves my lure. they are an Octopus-style hook. The Octopus styles work well slipped up the mainline/leader.
I like the straight eye hook & loops tied on slabs like Gibbs Depthcharges because they hang better than octopus styles, without getting the bite 'filled' by the lure as it flutters & drops. On lead slabs, Luhr-Jensens, Deltas & Depthcharges, 75%+ of hookups are on the sacrifice hook.
On spoons, it's about 15% if a tied hook, and 30% if I slide the hook on the mainline with a bead ahead of a snap/or snap-swivel.
No less than 50% of my landings are on the top sacrifice hook.
I will point out shore-casting isn't bagging a bunch of salmon, famed as short-strikers. Most fish are lings, greenling, rockcod and the infrequent sole/flounder. Off the Belmacarra area, I did pick up what absolutely looked like a brown trout or dolly this year on a Mepps spoon & plastic trailer (head-hook). It wasn't a cutty nor steelhead, I get a very few of those. I used to get a lot of browns on the Bow River years ago, and a few bull, brookie & dollys elsewhere. I know east coast salt-run browns, brookies & dollys look very similar with browns & dollies most similar.
All these fish like to take their bait by or near the head.
Works for me.
Cheers!
Casting, you get a better flutter drop with a double pivot, ring/snap&swivel. I've cut enough line incl braids on split rings that's a cardinal no-no for me. Also, casting is continuously stressing the line/leader with a high-action on the terminal gear which can gob up the works & abrade direct-ties.
I do the sacrifice/head-hook two ways. The hooks are either straight-eye offsets with a short shank, 2/0-3/0, or (thin-wire) Gamy finesse wide-gaps 2/0. As a beach/rock caster, I prefer the Gamys because they'll break on a tough rock-snag & free my lure. They don't let any fish go however.
On buzz bombs, I'll slide the Gamy up the leader, a couple beads at the head of the lure. Almost all hook-ups are on the head-hook.
Deadly Dicks, Zingers & other lead slabs or spoons and some plugs, I tie straight-eye short shanks onto a doubled loop of braid. Palomar knot for the hook, 4-wrap surgeon knot at the tag-end. I loop it through the wire-eye or bottom swivel-eye at the head of the spoon or slab. But never to a split ring. It will abrade or slip into the split, working its' way out. For some plugs, I'll use 7/0 tied on or slipped on the mainline, ahead of how many beads I need to keep the bite open & clear. On a Gotcha, I'll slip it on the mainline ahead of a snap.
The Gamys are great because of the fine wire, open bite and short shank. they're a really strong hook and you can break off 20# line... but not 50#+. Breaking the hook on a rock saves my lure. they are an Octopus-style hook. The Octopus styles work well slipped up the mainline/leader.
I like the straight eye hook & loops tied on slabs like Gibbs Depthcharges because they hang better than octopus styles, without getting the bite 'filled' by the lure as it flutters & drops. On lead slabs, Luhr-Jensens, Deltas & Depthcharges, 75%+ of hookups are on the sacrifice hook.
On spoons, it's about 15% if a tied hook, and 30% if I slide the hook on the mainline with a bead ahead of a snap/or snap-swivel.
No less than 50% of my landings are on the top sacrifice hook.
I will point out shore-casting isn't bagging a bunch of salmon, famed as short-strikers. Most fish are lings, greenling, rockcod and the infrequent sole/flounder. Off the Belmacarra area, I did pick up what absolutely looked like a brown trout or dolly this year on a Mepps spoon & plastic trailer (head-hook). It wasn't a cutty nor steelhead, I get a very few of those. I used to get a lot of browns on the Bow River years ago, and a few bull, brookie & dollys elsewhere. I know east coast salt-run browns, brookies & dollys look very similar with browns & dollies most similar.
All these fish like to take their bait by or near the head.
Works for me.
Cheers!
