Kodiak Disks...winter project

mcgyver

Member
Time to convert over to Stainless Kodiaks....thinking the stainless calipers and possibly the Silver Cadmium Plated disks (think the stainless disks are out of my budget)...3500# x 2 axles...
Not concerned with the job as I do all my own brake/bearing work anyways.....
Anyone care to comment? where did you purchase? etc.....
 
Bot Kodiak parts for my triple axle trailer at www.trailerpartsdepot.com

Shipped to my mailbox in Blaine Wa.
Easy and much cheaper than buying local.

I would ceratinly reccommend them.
I went for the Dacromet coated rotors rather than stainless.

JG
 
If I had it to do over again, I'd have gone with the dacromet coated rotors with the stainless callipers. I've had two callipers seize up in less than 18 months and only a few dips in salt water.
 
I just replaced my brakes. The old Kodiak rotors were corroded and scored and two of the calipers were damaged, one bent and one cracked at the thin part of the caliper.

I bought stainless calipers with dac rotors that came with bearings and seals in a kit. Bought them from http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/. They had the best price and free shipping.

I have repaired seized calipers by replacing the piston o-ring and the dust seal. It takes a few minutes per caliper once you use compressed air to blow the piston out. A c-clamp is required to press the piston back into place. Cost to rebuild is about $5 per caliper. Pacific Trailer in California has the rebuild parts.

Don
 
Guys,

I am looking into this too. I just got a quote from a local guy (Custom Hitch in Victoria, out by the Luxton Fairgrounds) who sounds like he knows his ****. His price for the kit was about $775 per axle. On top of that you need lines between the hard brake lines and the calipers, and you need bearings. Additionally, you need to have a surge actuator that will work with discs. Forget about just puncturing the internal valve in your existing actuator (or removing it). The reason you need to replace it is because you need an electric reverse solenoid that is designed to work with discs. If you are backing up with drum brakes, the actuator won't apply enough pressure to stop you cold unless you are going up a pretty steep hill, but with discs, you will be totally locked out. Therefore, you need an electric solenoid. All tolled, I'm in for $3000 with actuator, lines, bearings, and two Kodiak kits.

Alternatively...

At Etrailer.com:

Kodiak kits for $379.95 US, free shipping in the US. x 2 = $759.90 US
New actuator for $207.38 US, free shipping in the US.
Kodiak Brake Lines at $9.49 each x 4 = $37.96 US
Bearings and seals: inners and outers (I won't specify parts or a link because there could be several permutations) = $2.95 + $3.75 + $5.49 = $12.19 US x 4 wheels = $48.76 US

Total = $1,054.00 US

Today's conversion rate is right at $.90 on the US dollar = $1159.40 CDN

Use these guys for shipping into Victoria, and based on a shipping weight of 150 pounds, it will cost you $74.40 to get it shipped to Victoria.

There is no duty on automotive parts manufactured in the US (see section 8708.30.11 of the Canadian Customs Tariff Schedule for 2014) and using Express Air, you clear customs on your own, so there are no brokerage fees. You will taxes to pay on both the goods and the shipping though... so that is another $148.06.

You total payout for the complete conversion package would be $1381.86 CDN. Add in a few bucks for incidentals like brake fluid, shop supplies, beer for doing the job yourself, and you are right at $1500.00. If you add in labour and get someone else to install all the bits, you're looking at 1.5hrs per wheel, and 1 hour for the actuator. That's 7 hours at $90.00 per hour and we can call it $700 after tax. Now you don't have to buy beer, so you come in around $2000.00.

I don't understand why parts companies try to gouge us so much for living in Canada. I REALLY wanted to give this Custom Hitch guy my business, but save $1500.00 by doing it myself on a Saturday? Damn. Tough to argue with that.
 
Franko,
My hard lines rusted out so I replaced them with stainless lines that came in a kit with the flexible lines that go to the calipers and mounting hardware for the lines. I bought the kit from Champion Trailers. The other two places that I would recommend is Shadow Trailer and Pacific Trailer. Between the three you can find everything that you would need for this project. I think your estimates of time for doing this job are ok. If everything comes off easy then it won't take as much time as you estimate but when does stuff that is corroded come off easy? Not very often.
 
I like Custom Hitch he did by bearings once after the clown from island springs ripped me off and repacked the rusty bearings for me (sigh)... The only thing is he was fairly expensive...repacked bearings was like 170-200.00 which is way overpriced but had no choice had to get home..

I am not saying he isn't worth it did good job...But you will probably saving doing it yourself...
 
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