Kicker connecting rod set up

Hey guys,
I can't seem to get my main outboard and kicker connected properly with the usual "EZ-Steer" style set up. Problem is that when in the trolling position, the front of the kicker is just about even with the back of the bit motor. Waaaay back.
I've tried all sorts of configurations of angle bends in the rod and nothing gives me enough steerage both ways. Can't mount the kicker any further forward.
Am I missing something, or will this simply not work?
Anybody have any work-arounds?
Thanks.
 
How about posting a picture, what type of boat and motors? Maybe someone else has the same setup.
 
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg168/Cedarstrip/IMG_0155.jpg
IMG_0154.jpg

IMG_0155.jpg
 
Pulling at bit of a blank in terms fo the names brand but I think you need to look at the type that attaches to the back of the engines via a bar and ball joints. See it fairly often with I/O and outboard kicker configurations. Bit of a pain to attach and remove but it looks like your best option...if the name comes to me I will re-post...
Good Luck
 
Have you just tried using the big motor ( while turned off) to steer the boat when the kicker is operating?

I did that for years with my old 17 1/2 ft Hourston. I cranked down on the swivel adjustment so the kicker would not turn easily. Set the engine in the center position and then steered the main engine to where I wanted to go. the only time I needed to give that system a boost was in heavy winds. At that time I sometimes had to start the big engine and give the boat a boost on the turn.




20ft Alumaweld Intruder
 
I used to have an EZ steer system,it came with a big "pipe clamp"that wrapped around the main engine,off of that it had a short pipe bent up at 90 degrees with the coupler on it,if you positioned one at the rear towards the side on each engine[so you don't have to lean way out]it might work.EZ steer is out of Washington State,they claim they can make anything work.Dan
 
I've got an EZ steer system already, as well as another type of connecting rod system. The issue is not how to connect them to the motors, it's how to get the proper angle or bends so there's enough movement to both left and right.
I'm thinking that laws of physics just won't bend to my will on this one.
 
i have a ez steer and it hooks to the front of both motors works awesome but put some net float on the connecting rod for ruff seas incase you drop it
 
Looking at the picture of your outboards, I'd say you, or a previous owner, had used a Panther/Stearns/Goldeneye type connector.
http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/goldeneye-quick-disconnect-assembly--zinc.html
In these a knob would have been mounted on top of the Evinrude (where the nut and washer are now installed to fill in the hole).
A second knob would have been on top of the kicker - which I assume has been replaced - and a connecting rod with quick disconnects on each end would have joined the two motors.
This is a standard method that SG uses, and enables you to mount or remove the connecting rod from inside the boat (unlike the E-Z Steer which has to be hooked up from the rear before you launch).
Not sure you can use this method with your present kicker with the gas tank on top of the motor, there may not be any space for mounting the knob on the kicker. Usually the mounting bolt would go through the top of the cowling at the rear where the finger grip for tilting up the motor is (much like it is on your Evinrude).

Alternatively, you could use the quick disconnect mounted on the steering rod for the Johnson and connect to the front of the kicker. However to get them to move synchonically, you would have to install an extension plate on the front of the kicker. This would probably be a piece of flat stainless about 3" wide by 6-12" long, extending like a tongue from the front of the kicker. Hopefully there are a couple of holes in or around the carry handle that this can be bolted to. Then the connecting rod can connect to the front of the tongue.
(Try a piece of 1/4" ply or scrap metal to make sure it works for you before making your final model.)

Hope this helps and I haven't muddied the waters.
Hard to explain without a sketch.
 
I was going to suggest what Time did but he beat me to it. A couple of other things you might want to try is a fixed mount kicker bracket, should bring your kicker forward enough to help. Also by the looks of it you have enough room on your transom to off the bracket and direct mount the kicker beside your main. I guess that's my two or three cents. Good luck.
 
I guess I should have been clearer. I already have the EZ steer system, as well as the other one, and am having a rod made up to extend out in front of the little motor.
It looks as if I will have to mount the kicker directly to the transom, although I will have to use a 'plate' of some sort as the transom is about 1/4" too thick.
Problem is, that if I do that, there is no vertical movement to the kicker for when in use and when not in use and it will drag in the water when running at speed.

Oh well,
guess I'll just have to stick with the tiller extension handle and sit at the back.

Thanks for your input guys.
 
If you put the kicker directly on the transom, it should, when tilted up, clear the water when you are running on the main motor.
Alternatixely, look at something like a "jackplate".
 
Hello , I have a ez steer system with a similar problem. The only solution was to attach the ez steer arm every time when you are getting ready to troll. It is a little bit of a hassle , but I have it down to a art now. I tryed every configuration possible but no go either I had restricted steering or the kicker dragged through the water when on plane. I have heard but not seen of people attaching the short arm ez steer by mounting a special swivel ball on the cowling of both engines. Good luck.
 
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