Hydro usage

No not wrong Dave worked it out in winter (again colder up in Duncan at the time) was 45-50 per month. No way its not 15...
I guess just the colder temp thing then up there as it's clear I don't pay anywhere near that unless you think we can run everything else in our house for $13 a month in winter!
 
You really need to go to the BCH website and follow the links to Powersmart. There are things we have on our home which are horrible energy consumers. those plug on oil or ceramic heaters are good for about $30 per month on their own. Of course, that's if they are used 24/7. Halogen torchieres. (sp) are horrible. As a former BCH employee that used to field over 100 plus calls a day on "why is my bill so high " you have to watch your consumption of power, and compare it historically to the same time last year.
People always used to complain that there was something wrong with their meter. So, your analog meter suddenly found another gear it didn't previously have, and is now spinning faster? Now these new digital meters with tier two billing? Scares me.
 
Here are my comparisons..
Both buildings insulated R20 walls and R40 ceilings.

2900 sq foot house built 1998 Heat pump with electric back up. Hot water and cook top are gas. We live in this so Laundry, dishwasher etc.
Last year Dec/jan 220$

We have a 2000 sq ft shop ( overheight walls) heated with 3 x 5000kwt heaters with fans. Last year maintained to approx 16 C
For the same timeframe hydro was 320$$ ..

Definately considering putting a heat pump in the shop in the future.

Electric heat sucks.
 
Here are my comparisons..
Both buildings insulated R20 walls and R40 ceilings.

2900 sq foot house built 1998 Heat pump with electric back up. Hot water and cook top are gas. We live in this so Laundry, dishwasher etc.
Last year Dec/jan 220$

We have a 2000 sq ft shop ( overheight walls) heated with 3 x 5000kwt heaters with fans. Last year maintained to approx 16 C
For the same timeframe hydro was 320$$ ..

Definately considering putting a heat pump in the shop in the future.

Electric heat sucks.

How is the shop for air leaks? Bay doors? Do the fans recirculate air from high ceilings down to floor?

I agree that heat pumps are more efficient than electric, but if you address heat loss instead of heat source, it's usually best. It looks like the payback for a heat pump would be at least 15 years, and that's assuming the shop has about the same heat loss as the home. If there is additional heat loss through air leakage, payback would be longer.

It's my opinion that it is always best to put money into the envelope insulation, air tightness, and windows before upgrading heating system.
 
How is the shop for air leaks? Bay doors? Do the fans recirculate air from high ceilings down to floor?

I agree that heat pumps are more efficient than electric, but if you address heat loss instead of heat source, it's usually best. It looks like the payback for a heat pump would be at least 15 years, and that's assuming the shop has about the same heat loss as the home. If there is additional heat loss through air leakage, payback would be longer.

It's my opinion that it is always best to put money into the envelope insulation, air tightness, and windows before upgrading heating system.

The shop was build to the same standards as a house regarding insulation, vapour barriers, and the garage doors are R16 value.. highest I could find and they had frost on them all day today.
Shop only has 3 non opening windows ( westeck industry standard to todays codes for a house)
One exterior door that is fiberglass and meets code for a house.
I got the best weather stripping available for garage doors too.

Nothing I could have done as far as I know to make it more energy effiecient other than a heat pump.
 
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We have in floor hot water electric boiler
which I thought would be a little more economical than oil. The month of December was in the -30's for the better part of three weeks. It has warmed up to -18 and the forecast is for +7 on sunday.
1800sq' at $550.00 for the month of December

Again that is a crazy bill for your winter with size of house....Do you just run base boards?
 
Those grow-ops will come back to bite you every time with smart meters. I wonder how long it will be before the Vietnamese develop a black box for them. As soon as hydro gets everyone on board, watch your rates during peak times double. Those with smart meters will be showering and doing dishes and laundry in the middle of the night so they can do it at half the cost!
 
The shop was build to the same standards as a house regarding insulation, vapour barriers, and the garage doors are R16 value.. highest I could find and they had frost on them all day today.
Shop only has 3 non opening windows ( westeck industry standard to todays codes for a house)
One exterior door that is fiberglass and meets code for a house.
I got the best weather stripping available for garage doors too.

Nothing I could have done as far as I know to make it more energy effiecient other than a heat pump.

Sounds like you did take some steps to increase the efficiency over standard construction. Did you insulate under the slab? Exposed concrete floors are large heat loss culprits. Does the shop have an attic? If so, I'd go to r60. Quick payback on that upgrade. Do you have the heating on programmable thermostat? Maybe try stepping it down to 13 at night then back to 16 for the day. I would also take some temperature readings up at the ceiling and half way to see what kind of temperature gradient the space has. It may benefit to install some fans to push the hot air down, depending on the gradient of course.

On a windy day, walk around with a smoke pen of some kind ( incense work) and see what kind of air leakage you have. Check doors, windows, plumbing and electrical penetrations, where slab meets walls. Lots of air leaks can be reduced or resolved easily.
 
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