How to stop line from twisting?
- Thread starter FisherTim
- Start date
Barnacle Bill
Well-Known Member
I like the swivel on the hook, what size is it, and do you use bigger ones with larger spoons? .....BB
TanTastic84
Active Member
+1 for shortening up the distance from the release to the flasher!
I also like to run a short (12-18") piece of 40lb test line in front of my flasher..... Basically if you can imagine it; 25lb mainline --> 6-bead chain swivel --> 12"-18" 40lb line--> 6-bead chain swivel --> flasher etc. etc.
If you watch a flasher in the water, it doesn't rotate directly at the swivel. It actually makes a pretty large diameter roll. So the area of your line where the actual twist occurs is quite a ways up from the swivels at the end of your line. I find running this "Pivot Leader" gives your flasher a "pivot point" where it can rotate and I have found it puts A LOT less twist in my lines.
Word of advice: Don't make this piece too long. If you do, you're going to have a heck of a time netting your fish by yourself.
You can also take off your flasher leaving just your 10mm bead and swivel on your line and strip off about 100ft or so of line while your boat is underway. This will let the twist built up in your line twist itself out, then you can wind your line back in. This'll also relieve a lot of the pressure on your mono which is a good thing too. "You know, get two birds stoned at once."
I also like to run a short (12-18") piece of 40lb test line in front of my flasher..... Basically if you can imagine it; 25lb mainline --> 6-bead chain swivel --> 12"-18" 40lb line--> 6-bead chain swivel --> flasher etc. etc.
If you watch a flasher in the water, it doesn't rotate directly at the swivel. It actually makes a pretty large diameter roll. So the area of your line where the actual twist occurs is quite a ways up from the swivels at the end of your line. I find running this "Pivot Leader" gives your flasher a "pivot point" where it can rotate and I have found it puts A LOT less twist in my lines.
Word of advice: Don't make this piece too long. If you do, you're going to have a heck of a time netting your fish by yourself.
You can also take off your flasher leaving just your 10mm bead and swivel on your line and strip off about 100ft or so of line while your boat is underway. This will let the twist built up in your line twist itself out, then you can wind your line back in. This'll also relieve a lot of the pressure on your mono which is a good thing too. "You know, get two birds stoned at once."
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Pineapple Express
Well-Known Member
+1 for shortening up the distance from the release to the flasher!
I also like to run a short (12-18") piece of 40lb test line in front of my flasher..... Basically if you can imagine it; 25lb mainline --> 6-bead chain swivel --> 12"-18" 40lb line--> 6-bead chain swivel --> flasher etc. etc.
If you watch a flasher in the water, it doesn't rotate directly at the swivel. It actually makes a pretty large diameter roll. So the area of your line where the actual twist occurs is quite a ways up from the swivels at the end of your line. I find running this "Pivot Leader" gives your flasher a "pivot point" where it can rotate and I have found it puts A LOT less twist in my lines.
Word of advice: Don't make this piece too long. If you do, you're going to have a heck of a time netting your fish by yourself.
You can also take off your flasher leaving just your 10mm bead and swivel on your line and strip off about 100ft or so of line while your boat is underway. This will let the twist built up in your line twist itself out, then you can wind your line back in. This'll also relieve a lot of the pressure on your mono which is a good thing too. "You know, get two birds stoned at once."
I like your idea of the pivot leader. I'm going to try that!
Seafever
Well-Known Member
Barnacle Bill:-
Those are small swivels but they pack a punch......the one you see on that hook (and also at the front of the spoon)is rated 145lbs.
They make them in different sizes.....some of which are only slightly bigger than that one.
They are the swivels used on "CJ" lures.
I got these from PNT in Parksville..........Rob knows which ones they are......
I use these swivels on every application where I need a swivel on a lure because they are small, low-profile but strong. If used with a split ring like in the pic, then you have to make sure the swivel eye is big enough to slide around the ring. But like I said, they come in different sizes. And generally they are smaller in profile than an equivalent generic barrel swivel.
The sectional black high-speed swivel that is in front of the flasher....I get those at Harbor Chandler......good selection of sizes.
The diamond clips I get at PNT........those are rated 200 lbs.......I like them because they are fairly easy to unclip when I'm out fishing and my fingers are greasy from fish scent attractor and other things. Some other brands I can't even open because my fingers slide right off when out fishing.
Those are small swivels but they pack a punch......the one you see on that hook (and also at the front of the spoon)is rated 145lbs.
They make them in different sizes.....some of which are only slightly bigger than that one.
They are the swivels used on "CJ" lures.
I got these from PNT in Parksville..........Rob knows which ones they are......
I use these swivels on every application where I need a swivel on a lure because they are small, low-profile but strong. If used with a split ring like in the pic, then you have to make sure the swivel eye is big enough to slide around the ring. But like I said, they come in different sizes. And generally they are smaller in profile than an equivalent generic barrel swivel.
The sectional black high-speed swivel that is in front of the flasher....I get those at Harbor Chandler......good selection of sizes.
The diamond clips I get at PNT........those are rated 200 lbs.......I like them because they are fairly easy to unclip when I'm out fishing and my fingers are greasy from fish scent attractor and other things. Some other brands I can't even open because my fingers slide right off when out fishing.
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Barnacle Bill
Well-Known Member
Seafever, thank you very much for the info. .....BB
Seafever
Well-Known Member
There is a time I used to get line twist......and that is:-
When I'm fishing a lure like a spoon behind a keel weight with no flasher..
What caused it was :-
The rod was sticking straight out from the gunwale at 90 degrees.
This made the rod tip continually go into a "flipping' action......as the rod countered the drag of the weight it would "flip " it forward in a pulsing action.
This caused the spoon to be flipped ahead all the time......and it would eventually twist and tangle up.
So I angled the rod back to a degree where it couldn't do the flip action.........end of problem.
When I'm fishing a lure like a spoon behind a keel weight with no flasher..
What caused it was :-
The rod was sticking straight out from the gunwale at 90 degrees.
This made the rod tip continually go into a "flipping' action......as the rod countered the drag of the weight it would "flip " it forward in a pulsing action.
This caused the spoon to be flipped ahead all the time......and it would eventually twist and tangle up.
So I angled the rod back to a degree where it couldn't do the flip action.........end of problem.
Pineapple Express
Well-Known Member
off topic...what spoon is that?
Seafever
Well-Known Member
It's a Williams HQ.......supposedly silver-plated
Comes with a big shiny tape eye originally..........but I took that off and went with the glow eye.......
The original eye does not glow......but it's big and the way they stick them on at the factory is not very good......I knew the factory eye wasn't going to be there after the first dunking....
I like the glow eye better .......and it will stay on way longer.
The Williams HQ comes with nothing but a split ring up front......I took their split ring off and substituted another one plus a swivel that I like.
I also added my own hook setup on the back end.(Came with a treble)
Got it from Cabela's in Nanaimo. On the website they show them being quite pricey (10 or 12 bucks).......but I didn't pay that much in the store as I remember.
Comes with a big shiny tape eye originally..........but I took that off and went with the glow eye.......
The original eye does not glow......but it's big and the way they stick them on at the factory is not very good......I knew the factory eye wasn't going to be there after the first dunking....
I like the glow eye better .......and it will stay on way longer.
The Williams HQ comes with nothing but a split ring up front......I took their split ring off and substituted another one plus a swivel that I like.
I also added my own hook setup on the back end.(Came with a treble)
Got it from Cabela's in Nanaimo. On the website they show them being quite pricey (10 or 12 bucks).......but I didn't pay that much in the store as I remember.
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I never thought about line twist when i did this but now that i look at things it has to help, and i don't remember the last time i had line twist actually...
A couple yrs ago i converted all my flashers to break away and line twist seems to be eliminated. Two ball bearing swivels on the flasher rig plus i think the bead pivots against the ring..plus one more barrel snap swivel at main line end...
Officially hooked on Dummy and Break Away flashers now, when i buy a flasher i immediately cut the rear swivel off and drill holes...
A couple yrs ago i converted all my flashers to break away and line twist seems to be eliminated. Two ball bearing swivels on the flasher rig plus i think the bead pivots against the ring..plus one more barrel snap swivel at main line end...
Officially hooked on Dummy and Break Away flashers now, when i buy a flasher i immediately cut the rear swivel off and drill holes...
Sr SQ
Well-Known Member
I cut plug most of the time and the only iron clad way to stop line twist is a top quality (Sampo, Rosco) BB swivel in conjunction with a 6 bead bead chain……period!
Buying lesser quality BB swivels is a waste of money IMO.
Canso
Well-Known Member
30lb mainline with ball bearing snap swivel, never a problem.
http://www.mustad.no/catalog/asia/product.php?id=342
Maybe your mainline is too small.
http://www.mustad.no/catalog/asia/product.php?id=342
Maybe your mainline is too small.
Seafever
Well-Known Member
If the spoon comes with a welded ring I'll leave it on....if not then I add a swivel rather than tie direct to a split ring....
Do spoons with swivels in front of them work........?
Look up TwoGone's picture of his tyee caught with a spoon with a swivel on it that he deliberately put there after removing the welded ring because he liked the action on the spoon better that way.
Do spoons with swivels in front of them work........?
Look up TwoGone's picture of his tyee caught with a spoon with a swivel on it that he deliberately put there after removing the welded ring because he liked the action on the spoon better that way.
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