Espar Diesel Heater

Thru haul at both stores I've looked at come with double heat gaskets no rubber washers. I've been told to buy heat proof silicone.

I have no y fittings and can't locate anywhere in town.

Kit came with a wide open vent I was going to dirrect down over the floor. The second vent has a 360 degree turnable vent I was going to put cloest to drivers window.

My vents are both Espar. Id like to restrict dash vent and dump more heat on the floor
 
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The espar dash vent I have has adjustable slats like a automotive dash vent it can be completely closed off. I think you're probably going too want a dash vent that can be turned off. Post a pic of your exhaust thur hull it sounds too me like it might be a exhaust outlet for a bunk heater install. The bunk heater and marine kits are similar same heater but they come with different warm air pluming and a different exhaust outlet. You can use the bunk heater kit in a boat it's just you have too come up with a few extra parts. I don't think the air gap exhaust thur hull would be critical on a aluminum boat. I think it's meant too prevent burning the hull on a Fibreglass boat.


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Just picked up 2-360 degree louvered vents. Just can't locate a y tube 60mm. Found a T in PVC not heat rated though. Was told it would off gas and break down.

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Nice vents. Make sure you never run the heater with them both closed by accident. It will over heat and destroy it's self. Espar recommends one vent too be a open all the time type. But with a little common sense a guy should be able too keep one open at all times. You're tee fitting is not very good because the d2 is not a high cfm unit and I've found that it needs the best ducting you can give it too work well. Maybe use that tee too test the install and order a better flowing y from espar. It pays too route your ducting too flow as good as possible as well. Just trying too help lol.


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Any pics of your install yet ? Maybe I've been posting on this thread too much but the boat is in a snow bank for a few more months and I'm taking a break from ice fishing. It's been entertaining. Man your going too enjoy trolling along in pure comfort while I'am still ice bound. Lol


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I can find 3" Y's even found 2.5" Y's and T's......... Turns out I need a 60mm Y. Seems only Espar makes it :mad:

Can make from 636 plastic, but the Y is $25, the 3 60mm ends are $21 each and I have to buy a 10' pipe at who know what cost just to cut 3 3" joints to then glue it all together. That's not going to happen.

Calling Roton in Vancouver Monday apparently they will have it
 
I just want to say......... I hate this project :)

Not fun to install, trying to install in a tight spot, running tubes that are going to be hot and keep them hidden. Plus drilling holes and seconded guessing everyone of them.

Anyone know what temp. of both exhausts get to? the heat vents and the thru haul
 
I can find 3" Y's even found 2.5" Y's and T's......... Turns out I need a 60mm Y. Seems only Espar makes it :mad:

Can make from 636 plastic, but the Y is $25, the 3 60mm ends are $21 each and I have to buy a 10' pipe at who know what cost just to cut 3 3" joints to then glue it all together. That's not going to happen.

Calling Roton in Vancouver Monday apparently they will have it

Why don't you call Andrew Sheret in Courtenay ?
 
The exhaust gets wicked hot and needs too be insulated. With exhaust wrap.

I am in a aluminum boat :) I inquired about heat wrapping the pipes and was told it will cause the pipe to beak down prematurely. Was told to use sleeves of it only if needed to past thru sensitive areas. Exhaust pipe will not be in areas of sensitivity or human touch.

I want to use sealant on a couple spots of the exhaust. I have found 450, 600, 1000 and 1100 degree sealant. Which one should I use? How hot does it get?
 
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