Hey reelfast--- you need to call a guy named Gil Travis--1 (800) 925-0341
A few minutes with him and you'll have a much better idea of what hardware is available out there based on the fishing conditions you have in mind. He might also be able to save you some money on equipment
I presume you're a salmon/hali guy? The bases you want to cover (Wattage of the transducer / number of elements / degrees of the beam) are going to be way different then a blue-water tuna fisherman or a guy looking for wrecks in 300 M of water. But based on the comments you made about beam angle, definitely call this dude
I've been using sonars with 1 Kw capability for awhile now (in-hull 1Kw transducer like this:
Recently, I purchased a 1 Kw unit (Furuno 587) for the back deck. Now I need a transducer that will get wet (so I can use the bottom-discrimination feature (either a thu-hull or a transom mount) .
I also spent the day yesterday at the Boat Show looking at hundreds of screen-shots of sonars attached to different transducers. I'm a Furuno guy so I never went near the Navico / Lowrance / Raymarine / Simrad displays---just stuck to one booth, saw what I needed to see, and went home.
Maybe you know that Furuno has not (yet) gone after the Chirp technology--- a sonar that can differentiate returns from the entire spectrum of frequencies (the basis of Chirp) is already in the Furuno equipment line-up ---for us sports fishermen, the FCV295, and the FCV1100 used by the commies, but unlike Chirp, those sounders require dual transmission lines with multiple receivers---Chirp uses way less energy for 10 times the power going up and down the water column. The deep-water guys are all over this technology (though the pricing is in nose-bleed territory)
You can learn all you need to know about CHIRP here:
http://www.airmartechnology.com/uploads/Brochures/MIBS 2012 CHIRP Presentation.pdf
based on the fishing I do, Chirp sounds like over-kill ---- fishing non-schooling fish, continually on the move up and down the water column from zero up to 150 M can be covered with lots of other (CHEAPER) pieces of equipment. Many guys are perfectly happy with their 600W skimmer transducers hanging off their transoms
What I finally settled on is an Airmar SS264W (thru-hull) This unit can be purchased in a pair (SS264W 50kHz with a 25 deg. beam and a SS264W 200kHz with a 25 deg. beam) but there's not alot of value added fish-finding magic brought to the table with those multiple 25 degree beam widths---it's basically double coverage of the same amount of water column (45 feet of it at 30 M for BOTH the 50 KHz and the 200 kHz).
For strategic fish-finding equipment, this is what I've learned after lots of hours of research--- anybody else out there who can help on this, please chime in)
The best set-up for a mid-water salmon guy if you're going either the 600W route or the 1Kw route (1 Kw = more power = sharper returns at both the 50zHz and 200kHz frequencies) is:
wide beam 50
narrow beam 200
That covers all the bases, and is part of the reason the skimmer-type 600W transducers are so popular (Furuno guys use the P66) . Reason why is:
You motor along with a split-screen, 50 on one side, 200 on the other. At 30 M of depth (common salmon depth) , the 50 side with the 45 degree beam captures 83 feet of water column ( Approx. 40 feet on either side of your boat) The 200 side with the 11 degree beam captures 21 feet of column (approx. 10 feet on either side of the boat) So with this simple transducer (approx. $ 100 for a new one) once you get a strong signal on the 50 kHz screen you know that fish is within 40 feet of either your port or your starboard side. IF it's NOT showing on the 200 kHz screen, you circle back around and try and get that signal to reproduce itself on the 200 kHz screen--if you can do that, then now you know that fish is within 10 feet of your boat and at least you know your gear is in the money zone.
With a 1 Kw transducer, you apply the same principle but you're going to get a way stronger signal, clearer, crisper image, and if you're fishing bottom fish (hali for example) if you made a good choice in transducer for that application, that cleaner signal would allow you to differentiate between a fish and a hump of coral, whereas perhaps the P66 (600W) would just be showing the vague outlines of a blob on the bottom --- good screen shots of bottom differentiation in that AIRMAR CHIRP link) And in the case of hali fishing you'll want NARROW beam (like 6 degrees) because that's how you're going to know your boat is directly over that halibut when you find him
After what I saw yesterday at the Boat Show, I'm closing in on that SS264W 200 kHz 25 degree beam for the following reasons:
At 30 M, I'll have crystal clear returns in a beam (window through the water column) of approx. 45 feet around my boat, (20 feet on either side) --- that 20 feet of window on either side of my boat will capture my port and starboard downriggers, the gear, and anything within a 45 foot radius of my boat (of course that radius of "window" will increase at depth--- I'll have 90 feet on either side of the boat at 150 M, presumably with crystal clear returns due to the 1 Kw of power.
DOWNSIDE of choosing just a 200 kHz unit-- beyond 150 M, the returns from a 200 kHz will peter out and get muddy (downside of high frequency vs. low frequency energy propagation) . That's why God created 50 kHz crystal elements and that's why Airmar sells a pair of SS264W's ----but I'm NOT a deepwater guy--and by being so shallow (sounds like what my GF used to say to me) I just saved myself $ 800 by just buying one 200 kHz transducer instead of the pair of them
If I want to track bottom at 400 M, I have the in-hull M260 for that--- but I'll never be dropping a jig down there so that application is last on my list.
But call Gil; really---he can speak Furuno, Navico, Raymarine and will set you straight on not only the available MFD's out there but what transducer you might be thinking of attaching to them consistent with the type of fishing you do
good luck