dropping/lowering mooring anchor??

[jcon12]

Hi guys,

I plan on dropping a 250lb (pyramid style) mooring anchor this offseason at our place on ruxton island.

The depth will be approx 15-20ft at low tide.

Any advice on a way I can transport and lower the anchor myself? I am almost considering building a small raft with a cutout in the middle and bolting down a cradle with a block/pulley to lower it with... and a few friends to hold on.

 

[Squire]

Hi guys,

I plan on dropping a 250lb (pyramid style) mooring anchor this offseason at our place on ruxton island.

The depth will be approx 15-20ft at low tide.

Any advice on a way I can transport and lower the anchor myself? I am almost considering building a small raft with a cutout in the middle and bolting down a cradle with a block/pulley to lower it with... and a few friends to hold on.

If you have it on a raft or section of dock you can just tip it off the edge and let it sink. Of course you attach your mooring line and bouy and confirm the depth relative to the length of your line first.

 

[gone fishin]

Hi guys,

I plan on dropping a 250lb (pyramid style) mooring anchor this offseason at our place on ruxton island.

The depth will be approx 15-20ft at low tide.

Any advice on a way I can transport and lower the anchor myself? I am almost considering building a small raft with a cutout in the middle and bolting down a cradle with a block/pulley to lower it with... and a few friends to hold on.

put it in a dingy and tip the dingy over your spot.

 

[dance a jig]

250 lbs seems pretty small for a permanent anchor. I have done bigger ones (1000 and 2000) before. In one case we got a few beach logs near high tide hooked together with 2x4's, built concrete form and filled, and then at high tide moved to correct location via dinghy with chain and buoy attached, and when just right and while sitting in dinghy, removed 2x4 and logs separated apart and concrete went to bottom. very exciting.

3 photos attached show significant steps with 2000 lb block: a) form, b) block with chain/nylon and buoy at low tide, and c) block attached to an old metal heating oil tank of neighbor floating and ready to position at high tide. we then towed to position and cut nylon line holding block to heating oil tank, and make sure tank is AWAY from boat when you cut, since it will launch airborne when free of weight Again, very fun exercise to do. good luck. DAJ

 

[agentaqua]

another option if one is doing this by onself w/o hydraulics is to instead cast 2-3 smaller concrete blocks (50-100lbs) and before you drop them - bridle them together.

 

[jcon12]

250 lbs seems pretty small for a permanent anchor. I have done bigger ones (1000 and 2000) before. In one case we got a few beach logs near high tide hooked together with 2x4's, built concrete form and filled, and then at high tide moved to correct location via dinghy with chain and buoy attached, and when just right and while sitting in dinghy, removed 2x4 and logs separated apart and concrete went to bottom. very exciting.

3 photos attached show significant steps with 2000 lb block: a) form, b) block with chain/nylon and buoy at low tide, and c) block attached to an old metal heating oil tank neighbor floating and ready to position at high tide. we then towed to position and cut nylon line holding block to heating oil tank, and make sure tank is AWAY from boat when you cut, since it will launch airborne when free of weight Again, very fun exercise to do. good luck. DAJ

thanks DAJ - so just to confirm the photos and description are of different events right?

1st method could be building a platform on top of driftwood
2nd method could be setting at low tide and just leaving the anchor there?
3rd method could be hooking up the anchor to a drum/barrel to float it then cutting it free

 

[Corey_lax]

250 pounds doesn't seem like near enough weight for your boat.

 

[gone fishin]

not sure how big your boat is, but I have used a 30 gallon Garbage Pail, filled it with cement while in a dingy let it set for a day or so, towed it to my spot and dumped it. If you have a sandy bottom it will settle over the winter and never budge. What's most important is your ring is secure and rust proof. If you use chain it may rust. I found heavy anchor rope works best. Here is a good site that may be helpful
if it won't open, copy this and put it in your browser
westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Constructing-a-Permanent-Mooring

Constructing a Permanent Mooring | West Marine

West Marine is committed to outfitting your life on the water. With over 250 store locations, 100,000 products in stock, and knowledgeable Associates, trust West Marine for your boating, sailing, fishing, or paddling needs. Shop with confidence - get free shipping to home or stores + price match...

www.westmarine.com

 

[jcon12]

250 pounds doesn't seem like near enough weight for your boat.

Planning to install a pyramid style anchor like DOR-MOR. I think were safe at 150-200lbs even as that gives up 1,500-2,000lbs of holding strength.

Our Grady would have less than 1,000 lbs of force in 30mph winds so should be good considering we'd only be going when we can cross the strait and the weather looks decent.

If doing a cement block i'd probably need it to weigh 1,500lb

 

[Rain City]

Planning to install a pyramid style anchor like DOR-MOR. I think were safe at 150-200lbs even as that gives up 1,500-2,000lbs of holding strength.

Our Grady would have less than 1,000 lbs of force in 30mph winds so should be good considering we'd only be going when we can cross the strait and the weather looks decent.

If doing a cement block i'd probably need it to weigh 1,500lb

I'd install three of those so I could sleep.

 

[gone fishin]

I'd install three of those so I could sleep.

You gota know Ruxton Island is seldom if ever subject to big surf or winds

 

[Rain City]

You gota know Ruxton Island is seldom if ever subject to big surf or winds
View attachment 71611

Oh I know it well. But I had my brand new 18 foot maxum pull a mooring anchor at a motel in Osoyoos the very first weekend I owned it back in 2008. And then I had another one pull at Lesquiti Island at 4AM in a protected bay and we ended up against a rock cliff. This is triggering for me.

 

[doug78]

Oh I know it well. But I had my brand new 18 foot maxum pull a mooring anchor at a motel in Osoyoos the very first weekend I owned it back in 2008. And then I had another one pull at Lesquiti Island at 4AM in a protected bay and we ended up against a rock cliff. This is triggering for me.

That lake claims many victims every year...Ive been enjoying the show and feeling bad for people for the last 20 years.

 

[jcon12]

Oh I know it well. But I had my brand new 18 foot maxum pull a mooring anchor at a motel in Osoyoos the very first weekend I owned it back in 2008. And then I had another one pull at Lesquiti Island at 4AM in a protected bay and we ended up against a rock cliff. This is triggering for me.

your fault for owning such nice things!

 

[gone fishin]

just so you know, I have had a self made anchor hold with no problem's with 30 plus knot winds blowing straight in with no problems in the same area.with an 18' boat. It all depends on the size of the boat and if you use it year round or as I suspect only in the summer.
My last thought on the subject.

 

[dance a jig]

thanks DAJ - so just to confirm the photos and description are of different events right?

1st method could be building a platform on top of driftwood
2nd method could be setting at low tide and just leaving the anchor there?
3rd method could be hooking up the anchor to a drum/barrel to float it then cutting it free

yes, 1st method is banding together big logs at an 80% high tide with 2x4's, building form on top, and then pouring cement

2nd method is really setting weight at low tide with tractor, and attached to large float (ie. neighbors former heating oil tank), and waiting for tide to float it. there is not setting at low tide and just leaving anchor there

also, look at my form for my 2000 lb weight and you will see 2 large steel chain links. Each link was maybe 18" and the diameter of metal was close to 2". the bottom link was fully enchased in concrete and tied to rebar, and top link was 1/3 out of rebar. I dont think i have to worry about that failing, as mine is in 55' of water (at high tide) and kind of out of the "oxygen rich zone" near the surface. Hooked to said weight is some big butt long link galvanized chain of maybe 25' which really acts as a shock absorber and mostly sits on bottom in the sand, and connected to some 1 1/2" nylon of maybe 65', then 6' of galvanized chain which goes through a buoy, and latter degrades about every 3 years and needs replacing. Accordingly there is very little scope, and a nice shock absorber on the bottom. BTW, my boats typically are in the 24' range and pretty heavy. Last two boats were 24' Pursuit (6,000 lbs wet) followed by 24' Seasport (7,000 lbs wet), so..... I need heavy stuff, and only keep on buoy from spring to fall. good luck. DAJ

photo is below neighbor with knife on end of pole and ready to cut 2500 lb test nylon that is attached to the weight and the float. Again, careful not to cut when close to boat as float went airborne when rope cut

 

[jcon12]

Thanks for the update DAJ.

I've watched about 100 videos on youtube of people setting their own concrete anchors.. I just don't understand how you get them to land upright? It seems they always tip atleast 90 degrees if not a full 180 based on the method of releasing it from the float.

 

[dance a jig]

Thanks for the update DAJ.

I've watched about 100 videos on youtube of people setting their own concrete anchors.. I just don't understand how you get them to land upright? It seems they always tip atleast 90 degrees if not a full 180 based on the method of releasing it from the float.

Agreed. Not sure what the answer is to ensuring concrete anchors land upright, but it would be good to inspect the drop before wave actions over winter months bury parts of the concrete. If one found the concrete anchor on its side and knew the angle it incorrectly landed, one could perhaps power it upright with boat using bow trailer eye or both aft trailer eyes. I would not pull super hard when tied to a cleat.

 

[Charlie415]

Agreed. Not sure what the answer is to ensuring concrete anchors land upright, but it would be good to inspect the drop before wave actions over winter months bury parts of the concrete. If one found the concrete anchor on its side and knew the angle it incorrectly landed, one could perhaps power it upright with boat using bow trailer eye or both aft trailer eyes. I would not pull super hard when tied to a cleat.

Just pick a mid tide and refloat the anchor and wait until the tide goes back out and it should be self righted.

 

[StupidityKills]

Hi guys,

I plan on dropping a 250lb (pyramid style) mooring anchor this offseason at our place on ruxton island.

The depth will be approx 15-20ft at low tide.

Any advice on a way I can transport and lower the anchor myself? I am almost considering building a small raft with a cutout in the middle and bolting down a cradle with a block/pulley to lower it with... and a few friends to hold on.

We just pushed ours off the pod. We ended up just hoping for the best and it worked out. I was considering tieing a scotsman and dropping it down to land upright, then cutting the rope after but didnt bother.

Completely off topic, but what part of Ruxton? I'm in Herring Bay.