Double eagle 18.5 transom rebuild with splash well

[jasonj]

It’s looking like my older double eagle 18.5 has some rot in the transom that probably originated from the bolted on swim steps. It’s an outboard model with integrated splash well and moulded rear seats with a hard top. It seems like getting to the transom from the inside is going to be difficult with the splash well and seats in the way.

What are my options?
Inside transom replace options:
1-pull off full deck moulding (very heavy/time consuming with hardtop, windshield and steering/electronics attached) or
2-cut deck moulding at the beam/middle to separate splash well and seats from the forward hardtop section and remove the splash well/seats to expose the transom, and reglass the deck moulding after transom replace

Outside transom replace option:
3-cut rear skin off and leave 3” around the side to bond the skin back on and dig out and replace the core. Weaker than inside transom job.

Any thoughts on what is usually done? This group has been an amazing source of info on these boats.

 

[kingblazer84]

@jasonj have you scoured the website yet lots of threads from guys that have done this process its going to be involved either way you decide but when you do make sure you dont cheap out because you want this to last long term past your ownership even!

 

[jasonj]

@jasonj have you scoured the website yet lots of threads from guys that have done this process its going to be involved either way you decide but when you do make sure you dont cheap out because you want this to last long term past your ownership even!

Yes, I have spent many hours searching this forum for this and have seen many projects posted over the years. Most of what I see is transom replacement with the intent to pod. I have not yet found a project on this forum where the owner re-installs the splash well.

Also, all the examples on this forum so far replace the transom from the inside. I have seen many outside replacement examples online (youtube) which have the advantage of not messing with the interior but I wonder about the strength of these repairs and how that would work on a DE.

My questions really is about the best strategy to do a repair to get back on the water.

 

[kingblazer84]

If the transom is wet im sure the stringers are wet at the transom as well and possibly even further forward if I was a betting man.. You should atleast pull up the back floor section and confirm you dont have wetness or drill core samples but that wont really give you that good of an idea of rot inside unless you hit a soft spot.

 

[jasonj]

If the transom is wet im sure the stringers are wet at the transom as well and possibly even further forward if I was a betting man.. You should atleast pull up the back floor section and confirm you dont have wetness or drill core samples but that wont really give you that good of an idea of rot inside unless you hit a soft spot.

Yes I'll check those. It shouldn't be too hard as I installed access ports between the stringers at the back a few years ago when I replaced a rotted section of the floor (due to battery brackets being screwed down) and the stringers were fine then. When tapping with a hammer on the transom, the sound is good at the bottom of the transom and near the motor but sounds more hollow around the swim platforms and also on the top side meeting splash well. These spots may be higher than the stringers so they could be ok. There are more soft spots developing on the floor though away from the transom. Too many screws were put into the floor at some point. Definitely some floor work to be done too.

 

[windsurfer]

I suggest cutting the fibreglass just in front of the seats and removing the splash well and seats. That will give you good access for whatever repairs are required. I doubt that you would be able to re-use the outside skin if you try taking it off from the outside. It will be stuck on tightly except where it’s wet.

 

[seachicken]

I suggest cutting the fibreglass just in front of the seats and removing the splash well and seats. That will give you good access for whatever repairs are required. I doubt that you would be able to re-use the outside skin if you try taking it off from the outside. It will be stuck on tightly except where it’s wet.

This is my vote. You need access somehow and retaining the outside layer of glass is important in my opinion.

 

[CatchAll]

I did my campion explorer 185 from the back and regretted it. It looked like the easier option, but it was not. When you leave that lip around the perimeter it is a huge pain to dig the wood out if the wood isn’t completely rotten. I tried every tool I could think of and finally ended up with an electric chainsaw. Even then then i ended up digging the last bits of wood and resin out of a narrow deep gap with a long chisel and hammer. One problem I ran into with the campion is that the outer sections of the transom flare forward and the plywood core was three separate parts. The inner skin was thin and flimsy so it was difficult to reinstall at exactly the same angles. If you can’t reuse the skin that you cut out, you will spend days sanding and fairing when you glass the transom back up. Generally the better way to go is cut in front of the splash well. You will have clear access to the transom for removal. The final cosmetics of the larges part of the transom repair will not be visible after the splashwell is reinstalled. You will just need to blend in the cut line. Chances are that at least the last few inches of stringer are wet and need some repair too.

 

[jasonj]

Thanks everyone for your input. Yes it seems cutting the deck moulding to pull off the splash well is the best option. I see now that this was done by @brad fox on his campion. He used Coosa board which is the best choice but apparently expensive.
Now to decide if this is really worth doing.

 

[Doubleheader]

It’s possible to do all the work from the stern, not leaving a lip on the outer skin, and having a rig stronger than factory. But just to match the existing stern glass thickness I’ve seen boats that would be 8, 10 or 12+ layers of 1708 just to match factory dimensions. Then there’s the overlapping on the corners to properly tie the stern back in, and days of sanding n fairing to make it look decent. There’s really no advantage unless you want to keep the original layout and you know that the rest of her is completely dry and sound. Whatever you decide it’s going to take time and money wise, double it and add another 33% lol

 

[ab1752]

It’s possible to do all the work from the stern, not leaving a lip on the outer skin, and having a rig stronger than factory. But just to match the existing stern glass thickness I’ve seen boats that would be 8, 10 or 12+ layers of 1708 just to match factory dimensions. Then there’s the overlapping on the corners to properly tie the stern back in, and days of sanding n fairing to make it look decent. There’s really no advantage unless you want to keep the original layout and you know that the rest of her is completely dry and sound. Whatever you decide it’s going to take time and money wise, double it and add another 33% lol

4x is the new 2x based on my recent antics haha