Connecting Cable to Mono on Downrigger

tyeesonly

New Member
Hi guys,

I was wondering if anyone has done a cable-to-mono connection on a downrigger. I use 18 and 20-lb cannonballs a lot and find that the traditional 2/0 crane swivel or even a 1/0 stainless steel swivel is not strong enough to go through the rollers on the downrigger regularly. I was wondering if anyone has used these Tuna swivels to act as a stopper or does anyone have any other suggestions for connecting cable to mono.Screenshot 2024-03-13 at 12.39.21 AM.png
 
People in the eastern USA use heavy mono on downriggers but they also use them for uses most of us couldn't imagine-pulling dredges & the like.
 
Is this to have a cheap way to run a longer downrigger line?
I personally took out the default scotty cable and replaced with 400' 250lb braid.
 
I would be using 250 lb mono instead of the tuna cord to act as a sure stop. I would still have my cable on as my main line and around 6 ft of mono to act as the sure stop. I am pretty sure I have seen a couple of members post their downrigger setups with heavy mono
 
I would be using 250 lb mono instead of the tuna cord to act as a sure stop. I would still have my cable on as my main line and around 6 ft of mono to act as the sure stop. I am pretty sure I have seen a couple of members post their downrigger setups with heavy mono
I run 300-400lb mono. Works great and is easy on the hands. Doesn't need a swivel. The mono and crimp flip the switch. It's great. Been five years or so since I started going with mono. Easy on the hands when it's wet. Rig the clip on a swivel below a crimp so the clip doesn't twist. Recommend it.
 
Mono stops are pretty common in areas of the westcoast. Bill Von Brendel was the first on the coast to come up with an application that was both successful in the market place and on his guide boat in Uci. I helped him troubleshoot the connections. He used 400 lbs for durability. Mono does stretch on 18 and 20 lbs balls so the heavier line was optimal. Tuna swivels as pictured above was what he started with, the key like any downrigger stop system is to ensure that the head swivel won't get hung up going through the pulley. Bill's idea and product went to Lighthouse Lures for a few years before the company was sold to GIBBS.
 
I run 300-400lb mono. Works great and is easy on the hands. Doesn't need a swivel. The mono and crimp flip the switch. It's great. Been five years or so since I started going with mono. Easy on the hands when it's wet. Rig the clip on a swivel below a crimp so the clip doesn't twist. Recommend it.
are you using braid to connect to mono or cable ?
 
Mono stops are pretty common in areas of the westcoast. Bill Von Brendel was the first on the coast to come up with an application that was both successful in the market place and on his guide boat in Uci. I helped him troubleshoot the connections. He used 400 lbs for durability. Mono does stretch on 18 and 20 lbs balls so the heavier line was optimal. Tuna swivels as pictured above was what he started with, the key like any downrigger stop system is to ensure that the head swivel won't get hung up going through the pulley. Bill's idea and product went to Lighthouse Lures for a few years before the company was sold to GIBBS.
thanks for the advice, if I could I would completely remove the swivel part but if I connect the cable to mono through a loop-to-loop connection I figured it would cut through the mono.
 
I could never understand why mono ever entered into the conversation for downrigger applications when halibut gangion is available everywhere, is cheap, is easy to install, is easy on the fingers and hand when lifting a ball, and lasts forever.

When I first started using it I agonized on how to attach it to braid and appealed for advice on this site many years ago. Just use an overhand knot and be done with it, someone suggested. He was right….works slicker then slick

Then I agonized over how to attach it to cable. Just loop the cable, crimp it, and tie the gangion to the loop. That worked slicker then slick, too.


No swivel, no big lump going around the pulley….just a nice tight knot that stops the SCotty dead stop every time.

I dragged balls across rocks and cliff faces all summer last season in unfamiliar waters. Never lost a ball…never lost anything

I have a roll of gangion in my boat I’m pretty sure I purchased at least 12 years ago and there’s still plenty of gangion on the roll to last at least another 5 years

IMG_5729.png
 
are you using braid to connect to mono or cable ?
Braid. Pick your knot of choice. I cut the mono once a season (after 60-70 days) and recrimp and tie a new knot. It does start to wear through eventually. Cable, my setup probably would not work.

I prefer mono over gangion. I ran it for years until I went to mono. Everyone has a preference and the 400 mono is mine. I still have a gangion roll around the boat. It's useful in a pinch for all sorts of stuff.
 
I could never understand why mono ever entered into the conversation for downrigger applications when halibut gangion is available everywhere, is cheap, is easy to install, is easy on the fingers and hand when lifting a ball, and lasts forever.

When I first started using it I agonized on how to attach it to braid and appealed for advice on this site many years ago. Just use an overhand knot and be done with it, someone suggested. He was right….works slicker then slick

Then I agonized over how to attach it to cable. Just loop the cable, crimp it, and tie the gangion to the loop. That worked slicker then slick, too.


No swivel, no big lump going around the pulley….just a nice tight knot that stops the SCotty dead stop every time.

I dragged balls across rocks and cliff faces all summer last season in unfamiliar waters. Never lost a ball…never lost anything

I have a roll of gangion in my boat I’m pretty sure I purchased at least 12 years ago and there’s still plenty of gangion on the roll to last at least another 5 years

View attachment 104142
have you ever had issues of the cable cutting through the gangion ?
 
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