Catch Up, new to me 20 ft Double Eagle

Well apparently 10x1.25 isn't very common, found a couple at Baker supply and found a better one in my supply of Toyota hardware so steel it is for now. Tried to seal them up and I'll order more from Parker for next time it's out.
 
Just get regular M10x1.5 and matching nuts.. pacific fastner in vancouver would likely have them / would probably ship.. and likely would have 10x1.25 if you need fine thread.
 
Just get regular M10x1.5 and matching nuts.. pacific fastner in vancouver would likely have them / would probably ship.. and likely would have 10x1.25 if you need fine thread.
I would have put SAE or AN bolts in if I could have but the trim actuator housing is threaded to receive the bolts. 10x1.0 is the more common metric fine, 10x1.5 is the regular coarse. 10x1.25 is not so common but a common Japanese automotive size (mostly seatbelt mount bolts from what I saw in my hardware bins). I will order the bolts tomorrow from Parker at $11 a piece which makes me barf in my mouth a little but then at least it's the correct hardware ready to install next time the boat is out. And it's correct head size 14mm but that's the OCD in me. Japanese hardware is 8, 10, 12, 14, 17mm heads. Toss all the other sockets in the bin.
 
I would have put SAE or AN bolts in if I could have but the trim actuator housing is threaded to receive the bolts. 10x1.0 is the more common metric fine, 10x1.5 is the regular coarse. 10x1.25 is not so common but a common Japanese automotive size (mostly seatbelt mount bolts from what I saw in my hardware bins). I will order the bolts tomorrow from Parker at $11 a piece which makes me barf in my mouth a little but then at least it's the correct hardware ready to install next time the boat is out. And it's correct head size 14mm but that's the OCD in me. Japanese hardware is 8, 10, 12, 14, 17mm heads. Toss all the other sockets in the bin.
My bad did not realize what they broke out of.
 
Well it dipped in the water today, somewhat briefly unfortunately though. Kind of a kick to the groin again after broken bolts yesterday. Valve in the bilge for the wash down pump was leaking enough I didn't want to lay in bed tonight worrying about it to deal with it tomorrow. It was a plastic valve that kind of tweeked my Spidey senses but I left it alone unfortunately. Took it out, apparently thread sealant was optional at install as was tightening it much beyond hand tight. Capped for now, will figure out an alternate for the wash down. Oh and kicker didn't want to crank so didn't venture far and put it back on the trailer. Starter needed cleaned up and freed up. Going to try again tomorrow.
 

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Well it dipped in the water today, somewhat briefly unfortunately though. Kind of a kick to the groin again after broken bolts yesterday. Valve in the bilge for the wash down pump was leaking enough I didn't want to lay in bed tonight worrying about it to deal with it tomorrow. It was a plastic valve that kind of tweeked my Spidey senses but I left it alone unfortunately. Took it out, apparently thread sealant was optional at install as was tightening it much beyond hand tight. Capped for now, will figure out an alternate for the wash down. Oh and kicker didn't want to crank so didn't venture far and put it back on the trailer. Starter needed cleaned up and freed up. Going to try again tomorrow.
Is the thru hull plastic too? It should be bronze.
 
Is the thru hull plastic too? It should be bronze.
No it's brass, I asked the surveyor about it all and he said it was all fine especially that the through hull was brass. I just wish I'd listened to my gut to investigate, at this point I'm life it is damn close to spot on.
 
It's a proper brass flanged through hull, just a s*it plastic valve without any sealant on the threads. I'm just going to leave it capped off and probably just run a hose overboard for the pump.
 
Just buy a proper shut off valve and a hose barb. Simple fix,
Ya I know but I think I'll leave it capped for now as the boat will be moored and it's one less thing for me to worry about when I'm away.
Double ss hose clamps below water line too.
If the through hull is proper, the rest is straight forward.
Thanks for that tip about double hose clamps, I'll definitely keep that in mind. Through hull is proper, exact same as the ones at the Harbour Chandler.
 
Just a thought, if something were to fall in that compartment it would sheer that plastic like nothing and then you have a serious problem. I know you capped it for now but good to replace it with brass or bronze going forward, double as fully banded(so the gear segments don’t cut into the hose) hose clamps is a must.
 
Just a thought, if something were to fall in that compartment it would sheer that plastic like nothing and then you have a serious problem. I know you capped it for now but good to replace it with brass or bronze going forward, double as fully banded(so the gear segments don’t cut into the hose) hose clamps is a must.
Ya with the plastic valve in there stepping or dropping something on it and it shearing off had crossed my mind.
 
From last week but a couple pictures of the hard top and windshield sealing. Old rubber strips for the glass were in great condition to reuse. Used the butyl caulk that was recommended by someone here (@Corey_lax I think, thanks) and was great stuff.
 

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