Broken pods

Capt_Ed

Crew Member
Anyone have any horror stories of pods coming off or coming apart.
 
Kinda impossible if done by a professional . I know my pod has 16 nuts and bolts and sika U could probally lift the whole boat up from the pod. Only thing I have seen is water going into pod , be it from the motor mount bolts not sealed correctly OR the access hatched not on right. or a cheap one.
 
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There’s definitely a few horror stories on the hull truth. A few stories of motors strapped onto the transom with ropes limping back in. Not always the pods fault some were likely rotten transoms or not re enforced correctly if needed. would agree with wolf pretty unlikely the aluminum fails if it’s welded by a pro.
 
One of the boats I'm looking at is podded and the transom looks to be thickened on the inside but no gussets down to the old engine beds , wouldn't having some gussets be better. It's an older Trophy so really not that beefy to begin with.
 
One of the boats I'm looking at is podded and the transom looks to be thickened on the inside but no gussets down to the old engine beds , wouldn't having some gussets be better. It's an older Trophy so really not that beefy to begin with.
Two 30 Commanders that I've seen podded. One was thickened and gusseted. The other, nothing. Apparently the "fixed" one had some stress cracks appear after the initial install so the gusseting was an afterthought. Ashbreez Boatworks did the one without added support and the guy said that the transom was more than strong enough, he used a PDR pod. He's a pretty serious builder. Maybe the other one had some rot that wasn't caught initially.
 
I am by no means a pro.... but having just done this conversion I've learned a few things. If it is a full width "pod" the weight is distributed across the width, and if the "thickened" transom has been glassed in properly, to an existing SOLID transom and existing SOLID stringers/hull you should be good. Also is it a "floatation pod" or a "bracket"? this obviously makes a big difference. Just some things to think about... I don't even know why I'm chiming in :oops:
 
In my experience trophy never carried their core materials to the sides of the hull it’s only in the middle where the leg was and then outside of that dog house area is just glass. In this style of construction they would benefit from a plate inside and knee braces to the engine beds or glassed in gussets to the stringers etc. Not all boats are built in the same way.
 
In my experience trophy never carried their core materials to the sides of the hull it’s only in the middle where the leg was and then outside of that dog house area is just glass. In this style of construction they would benefit from a plate inside and knee braces to the engine beds or glassed in gussets to the stringers etc. Not all boats are built in the same way.
It makes sense to me to have the gussets to the engine bed
 
I am by no means a pro.... but having just done this conversion I've learned a few things. If it is a full width "pod" the weight is distributed across the width, and if the "thickened" transom has been glassed in properly, to an existing SOLID transom and existing SOLID stringers/hull you should be good. Also is it a "floatation pod" or a "bracket"? this obviously makes a big difference. Just some things to think about... I don't even know why I'm chiming in :oops:
It seems that taking any boat designed for an outboard or sterndrive, then bolting a pod onto the transom, is just asking for trouble. The cantilever effect of 600 or more pounds torquing on this critical area, especially in rough water, will create stresses far beyond those initially anticipated.This is a conversion that would need some engineering.
 
One of the boats I'm looking at is podded and the transom looks to be thickened on the inside but no gussets down to the old engine beds , wouldn't having some gussets be better. It's an older Trophy so really not that beefy to begin with.

Transom gussets are not required. If you are flexing, 1 1/2” of plywood and glass across a transom there are issues. They look nice but not required. If the stringers go 1/3 of the way up should have lots of support.

I would ensure the transom is new if anything looks questionable. If they put a layer of 3/4 across old transom I would want sound tests done.
 
It makes sense to me to have the gussets to the engine bed
It does help but don’t forget that the engine beds aren’t designed for those loads either. It’s what I would say is a minimum given the way the trophy’s (from what I have witnessed) transom is designed. I work with engineers some are excellent and some are not so much 😂. A good portion of my job is spent modifying mistakes they have made.
 
They are bailliners for a reason...LOL
when you cover the whole transom more then likely your fine . When my pod builder drilled the set screws for the template he turned and looked at me and said "you dont see this often" he was refering to nice dry clean wood that came out of drill.

Ive seen some very bad transoms in my time worse was a guy selling a boat it was a ollder double eagle the owner drilled holes in the well area had eye bolts on transom beside the motor thumb tabs then carried a cable tru the holes and had lag eye bolts into side of strigers where the bildge area is then turn buckles to "tighten " it. I told the perspective buyer WALK AWAY!!!!

When I said to the guy you didnt even put sika in the holes etc as i had a small screw driver and it went right into both transom and stringer I said its all rotten he got all into my face . I said I cant believe your trying to rip a person off..
 
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