Advice installing aft steering station

InternetCharlie

New Member
Considering installing second steering station in cockpit. Would love to hear advice from others' experience. Pictures appreciated too!

This is a 'nice-to-have' project. I live in Pacific NW and I have GW Gulfstream and currently tie kicker into main engines when trolling and I have Trollmaster. So I spend almost all my time trolling at main helm. This is mostly ok, but it can get hectic when checking gear especially when windy. Also i'd love to have more steering options so i'm not stuck at main helm on long tacks (enjoy some PNW sun when possible).

As for "cons" I'm thinking: (1) more parts to breakdown, (2) hassle/cost of install, (3) I won't find it all that useful..only saves a couple steps compared to the main helm station, and (4) it's something new to snag or get in the way.

Also looking for advice on (a) steering wheel size (11 inches is smallest online but I thought most folks went with 9 inches), and (b) front or rear mount hydraulic pump - I am leaning rear since most parts would be inside transom and the steering wheel will be more flush with transom top. Thanks!

PS - photo from internet, it shows a 'front' mount hydraulic mount.
 

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the small wheels can be had from H&C or PNT possible? on the island ......you could just use a short cable steering for the kicker
 
I installed the flush mount and with in two years the aluminum pump shaft corroded out at the quad ring due to moisture between the gunwale and the pump. I changed the shaft out with stainless material and haven’t had any issues since (18 years). The top mount would prevents this or see if sea star sells a pump with a stainless shaft.
 
I have the same set up as pictured in the photo you posted. Its the way to go IMO. 99% of the guide fleet has same set up. Once you have hydraulic second rear helm, that also opens up connecting an auto pilot - which is a real game changer from my experience. Especially if paired with a remote fob. This allows you to quickly make course adjustments from anywhere on the vessel. Very handy when setting gear or dealing with tying up gear while under way. Its an investment $$$, but worth it.
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I have a rear station and currently installing what searun posted above. Rear station is awesome but addition of autopilot really helps in the wind etc when fishing alone. Why I am adding it.

Only thing that sucks a bit is a just found out my point compass have for radar won't work. You need a different one to add autopilot.

You just need a rear helm small wheel. I have mine dead center on stern as I can sit either side back of boat.
 
Just remember @InternetCharlie, once you have a hydraulic system in place (which I'm assuming you do, based on your brief discription of your boat), you can add whatever however many helms you want. The more you add the more complicated the hose routings get. Adding an auto pilot pump to a hydraulic system is the same as adding a helm to the system.

In most cases it's best to describe your system, boat, steering type, engine types, set backs from each engine etc.
 
I have the same set up as pictured in the photo you posted. Its the way to go IMO. 99% of the guide fleet has same set up. Once you have hydraulic second rear helm, that also opens up connecting an auto pilot - which is a real game changer from my experience. Especially if paired with a remote fob. This allows you to quickly make course adjustments from anywhere on the vessel. Very handy when setting gear or dealing with tying up gear while under way. Its an investment $$$, but worth it.
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and why on earth did they use ***** little screws on the fob?????? it goes down in the pouring rain and it's a rocking trying to replace a stupid little battery .... would of been better with usb recharge port
 
and why on earth did they use ***** little screws on the fob?????? it goes down in the pouring rain and it's a rocking trying to replace a stupid little battery .... would of been better with usb recharge port
Haven't had any issues with changing out batteries so far. Fished over 100 days last season on one battery, but the writing on the FOB wore out from over-use.
 
After I bought the boat I installed a pod for a Yamaha T9.9 on the port side of the transom beside the 1/2 swim grid on my EagleCraft 22- I mounted the steering on the port side rail just behind the arch. It's separate from the steering for my main engine (V8 inboard). I motor out to the area and then switch engines and use the kicker - this position allows me to comfortably control the boat while monitoring other vessels around me and keeping an eye on the lines. I'm having new electronics installed and will have the main MFD on the dash, wirelessly connected to a web-connected Toughbook Tablet mounted to a vertical rail on the top frame as a satellite station. That'll allow me to access and control the electronics from the rear helm. I usually stand or sit on the rail between the downrigger and the kicker steering wheel but I've also got a removeable telescoping swivel seat to use at the rear helm. The transom on this boat was taken up with a bait station, aerated live-well/fish box and a transom door to the swim grid - so a helm on the transom wasn't in the cards. But frankly, when you have a fish on and 2+ people in the boat, having the steering on the port rail gets one person (the helmsman) out of the way.
 

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After I bought the boat I installed a pod for a Yamaha T9.9 on the port side of the transom beside the 1/2 swim grid on my EagleCraft 22- I mounted the steering on the port side rail just behind the arch. It's separate from the steering for my main engine (V8 inboard). I motor out to the area and then switch engines and use the kicker - this position allows me to comfortably control the boat while monitoring other vessels around me and keeping an eye on the lines. I'm having new electronics installed and will have the main MFD on the dash, wirelessly connected to a web-connected Toughbook Tablet mounted to a vertical rail on the top frame as a satellite station. That'll allow me to access and control the electronics from the rear helm. I usually stand or sit on the rail between the downrigger and the kicker steering wheel but I've also got a removeable telescoping swivel seat to use at the rear helm. The transom on this boat was taken up with a bait station, aerated live-well/fish box and a transom door to the swim grid - so a helm on the transom wasn't in the cards. But frankly, when you have a fish on and 2+ people in the boat, having the steering on the port rail gets one person (the helmsman) out of the way.
What size is that wheel?
 
What size is that wheel?
Sorry, I missed this and am now setting a new record for a belated reply. Three years ago I installed a NovelBee 5-spoke 11" Diameter Stainless Steel ($49 on Amazon) and a Vevor Hydraulic Outboard Steering System Kit 90HP (~$500 on Amazon). It's never given me any grief. The steering wheel is roughly the same width as the gunnel and personally I wouldn't go smaller. I just put new Furuno electronics on my boat and adding a satellite compass and autopilot would run me another $5K. I'm sure you can find cheaper versions that'd do the job but I'm happy with what I have.
 
I have a cabin and small dance floor, so the aft helm is a must in my opinion. I do wish I had the autopilot for those windy days out alone. If you have most of the gear to support autopilot...that'd be the ticket, PLUS still do the aft helm.
 
Still on the fence. Trying to convince myself that full autopilot is necessary, especially on long idles to lake washington locks (keep boat in lake union). The practical side of me says I survived just fine for last two years and this should be project #26 on my list. I'll report back if I pull the trigger.
 
Still on the fence. Trying to convince myself that full autopilot is necessary, especially on long idles to lake washington locks (keep boat in lake union). The practical side of me says I survived just fine for last two years and this should be project #26 on my list. I'll report back if I pull the trigger.
When cost is no barrier wants often prevail over needs. I used to fish for walleye with no rod and reel - just 30' of 10lb line with an empty beer can tied to one end and a quarter ounce lead-head (not the fancy painted kind) with a minnow tied to the other end. I caught a mess of fish with this set up - often out-catching my fancy rod and reel friends - it's all that was needed. Now I've got ~17 rods...
 
Still on the fence. Trying to convince myself that full autopilot is necessary, especially on long idles to lake washington locks (keep boat in lake union). The practical side of me says I survived just fine for last two years and this should be project #26 on my list. I'll report back if I pull the trigger.
Once you add an ap, you'll wonder how you ever lived without one before!
 
My input is that if you put in a rear helm station make sure you have good visibility forward. I have had to dodge boats when drivers were blissfully unaware of other boaters directly in their path. You may have a bigger boat than the other guy, but you really don’t to run over and sink someone.
 
My input is that if you put in a rear helm station make sure you have good visibility forward. I have had to dodge boats when drivers were blissfully unaware of other boaters directly in their path. You may have a bigger boat than the other guy, but you really don’t to run over and sink someone.
AP and/or rear helm isn't the cause, I've seen a guy zoned out sitting at the helm in a perfect position to avoid a crash, but didn't. In my experience it has more to do with people getting busy dealing with netting fish or setting gear and distracted from keeping an eye out. Compounded when both vessel operators aren't keeping an adequate watch. Tripple compounded when all the passengers on the boat are busy watching the captain dealing with some tackle issues or a fish and no one is looking around.
 
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