23 hourston deciding what to do

[salmonkiller01]

I keep getting these Facebook feeds for Alberni Power and Marine and big sales on their engine prices until the end of November. Have you checked them out?

That’s where I am getting the current prices. I am sure they will add more discounts. Great to deal with. Guess I have sticker shock

 

[Rayvon]

Of the big 3,Mercury seems to be highest price,then Yamaha,then Suzuki in my short experience pricing 300HP. motors.

 

[salmonkiller01]

Of the big 3,Mercury seems to be highest price,then Yamaha,then Suzuki in my short experience pricing 300HP. motors.

Suzuki is second on my list after merc. That’s putting the cart before the horse. Once I find a trailer I will pick it up and post some pics. If anyone has a used trailer that will fit her I am looking. Does not have to pretty as I am travelling about 10 km and parking it

 

[seabeyond]

Of the big 3,Mercury seems to be highest price,then Yamaha,then Suzuki in my short experience pricing 300HP. motors.

Crazy, merc was the least expensive 3 years ago. Now it's cheaper to hang twin 150s than a single 300 merc. Strange days. 2019 was 5k less to opt for the single.

 

[Brando]

Twin 140 Suzukis would be my vote. Should be pretty decent weight savings and push you along nicely.

Consider going with composite materials if your going to follow through with the build. It will add some cost but with the price per sheet of marine ply these days I don’t think it will be all that bad and you don’t ever have to worry about rotten wood…

 

[23Hourston]

I'm with @Aquaholic in the sense of what will it really give you? Is the 23 that much better than the 20? Will it get you places the 20 won't? Won't it just cost more in fuel to do the same thing?

Yes yes and yes 300 suzuki does over 70 km

 

[uclueletcharters]

If you are taking your time deals on power come up time to time. Unless your stacking a ton of hours on a main you don’t need a zero hour motor when you run a kicker. Do the math people get so fixated on repower if you go out 20 times a season run main for 2 hrs each trip that’s 40hrs a season rest hours on a kicker. Find a solid running main get a new kicker and you will be set for years of fishing. Bet you will find a good 300 used with under 1500hrs between 10-15k depending on hours. Those newer ones stack 4000 plus hours with standard servicing. Repower season for guides starts in new year just keep eye open. Motors usually 2-3 years old 700-1200hr motors. Pays to have new running a business 10% deprecation first year 20% each year for next 2 years then depreciation is over time to trade in and go new again.

 

[Aces]

If you are taking your time deals on power come up time to time. Unless your stacking a ton of hours on a main you don’t need a zero hour motor when you run a kicker. Do the math people get so fixated on repower if you go out 20 times a season run main for 2 hrs each trip that’s 40hrs a season rest hours on a kicker. Find a solid running main get a new kicker and you will be set for years of fishing. Bet you will find a good 300 used with under 1500hrs between 10-15k depending on hours. Those newer ones stack 4000 plus hours with standard servicing. Repower season for guides starts in new year just keep eye open. Motors usually 2-3 years old 700-1200hr motors. Pays to have new running a business 10% deprecation first year 20% each year for next 2 years then depreciation is over time to trade in and go new again.

There's some good advice

 

[SpringVelocity]

I would get a new motors personally myself if it was my project.

I also wouldn't be so focused on the money aspect. It is more about building a boat you want. If the intention is too make money on it I wouldn't do it. Pod projects rarely are money maker.

Suprised you want to unload the 20ft you have. If you want advice I would reach out to @albernifisher . He redid his from ground up.

 

[Aquaholic]

Find a solid running main get a new kicker and you will be set for years of fishing.

Great point, however I find a lot of people go too light when they get the kicker. Over here as an example when we fish the Sand Heads area, the tides and currents are absolutely brutal and a “regular size kicker“ can’t keep up so we end up using the main a lot of time. So yes to your great advice but go next size up on the kicker. Instead of a 9.9, do a 15, and instead of a 15, get a 20 etc.

 

[uclueletcharters]

Great point, however I find a lot of people go too light when they get the kicker. Over here as an example when we fish the Sand Heads area, the tides and currents are absolutely brutal and a “regular size kicker“ can’t keep up so we end up using the main a lot of time. So yes to your great advice but go next size up on the kicker. Instead of a 9.9, do a 15, and instead of a 15, get a 20 etc.

A few boats running highthrust 25’s and seem to love them just need to make sure that the extra weight is offset with batteries on opposite side to balance things out at rest.

I would plan boat out to ensure no fish lockers in floor all above waterline that are gravity drained. Less pumps the better. Always thought long seat boxes that drain via through hulls out side would be ideal. Easy rinse out and drain. Captain chair on fronts of seat boxes rear facing cushion with hatch that opens to drop catch in.

If it were me I would make sure floor is above water line to make sure it’s self bailing as well. Self draining boxes and floor super important. Once you have a self bailing boat you won’t settle for anything else.

 

[salmonkiller01]

A few boats running highthrust 25’s and seem to love them just need to make sure that the extra weight is offset with batteries on opposite side to balance things out at rest.

I would plan boat out to ensure no fish lockers in floor all above waterline that are gravity drained. Less pumps the better. Always thought long seat boxes that drain via through hulls out side would be ideal. Easy rinse out and drain. Captain chair on fronts of seat boxes rear facing cushion with hatch that opens to drop catch in.

If it were me I would make sure floor is above water line to make sure it’s self bailing as well. Self draining boxes and floor super important. Once you have a self bailing boat you won’t settle for anything else.

Self bailing would be a priority. Adds a lot or work raising the cabin like Myles did on his 20.
Lots of great feedback on the forums and I am taking my time making the decision on this. Still searching for a descent trailer at a decent price. Apparently trailer values increase with bad breaks and 20 years of age Lol

 

[uclueletcharters]

A few boats running highthrust 25’s and seem to love them just need to make sure that the extra weight is offset with batteries on opposite side to balance things out at rest.

Self bailing would be a priority. Adds a lot or work raising the cabin like Myles did on his 20.
Lots of great feedback on the forums and I am taking my time making the decision on this. Still searching for a descent trailer at a decent price. Apparently trailer values increase with bad breaks and 20 years of age Lol

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[23Hourston]

Self bailing would be a priority. Adds a lot or work raising the cabin like Myles did on his 20.
Lots of great feedback on the forums and I am taking my time making the decision on this. Still searching for a descent trailer at a decent price. Apparently trailer values increase with bad breaks and 20 years of age Lol

If your getting enough water in the back of a 23 to where you wish you were self bailing something is very wrong. I would put the floor as low as possible…I have fish lockers below the water line under the floor that run into the bilge with macerator pump. But I do have a fresh water wash down too. Keepi in mind Your going to need eoh trailer brakes to be legal. Should probably think about budgeting for a new gas tank as well. Hopefully the keelson is in good shape that’s going to save some Serious time. And of course Epoxy up the underside of the floor

 

[uclueletcharters]

If your getting enough water in the back of a 23 to where you wish you were self bailing something is very wrong. I would put the floor as low as possible…I have fish lockers below the water line under the floor that run into the bilge with macerator pump. But I do have a fresh water wash down too. Keepi in mind Your going to need eoh trailer brakes to be legal. Should probably think about budgeting for a new gas tank as well. Hopefully the keelson is in good shape that’s going to save some Serious time

Self bailing is awesome if you can avoid bilge pumps avoid them. Macerator pumps are okay until they screw up when you need them to work. Fish puke up all kinds of stuff from shells to small rocks plus fishing line really does a number on them. Plus if water freezes in pump Over winter it can crack the housing I have seen it. Lower bilges need power and it doesn’t take long to kill your battery. Nice when bloods on the floor and you wash it of with hose or even a bucket of water and it runs right out of the boat. Or you moor for an extended period of time while it’s been raining no worries waters running out not going in a bilge. In some cases there’s no way around it but while doing a big custom job if you can swing it even if it’s a little bit of extra thought and work do it you won’t regret it.

One add on as I know people will say have a screen on it but that’s no good either blood clumps get caught and won’t make it to pump been there lol. If you can’t tell I hate pumps macerator or not they all fail and if yours hasn’t it’s a matter of time. Keep it simple use gravity and big through hulls and your golden

 

[23Hourston]

Self bailing is awesome if you can avoid bilge pumps avoid them. Macerator pumps are okay until they screw up when you need them to work. Fish puke up all kinds of stuff from shells to small rocks plus fishing line really does a number on them. Plus if water freezes in pump Over winter it can crack the housing I have seen it. Lower bilges need power and it doesn’t take long to kill your battery. Nice when bloods on the floor and you wash it of with hose or even a bucket of water and it runs right out of the boat. Or you moor for an extended period of time while it’s been raining no worries waters running out not going in a bilge. In some cases there’s no way around it but while doing a big custom job if you can swing it even if it’s a little bit of extra thought and work do it you won’t regret it.

One add on as I know people will say have a screen on it but that’s no good either blood clumps get caught and won’t make it to pump been there lol. If you can’t tell I hate pumps macerator or not they all fail and if yours hasn’t it’s a matter of time. Keep it simple use gravity and big through hulls and your golden

All valid points. But most can be mitigated with maintenance and a snap on rain cover..
I suggest you stand in a self bailing 23 and then one that’s not before making that Decision. I know of a bunch I could point you in their direction when the time comes. Do we even now if the floor ect is toast in this thing yet

 

[Brando]

All valid points. But most big can be mitigated with maintenance and a snap on rain cover..
I suggest you stand in a self bailing 23 and then one that’s not before making that Decision. I know of a bunch I could point you in their direction when the time comes.

think I would agree the 23 would be a lot of effort to have a self bail depends if it purpose built fishing or if your spending some summer vacation cruising and fishing for a few hours when you can. Are you going to keep the bulkhead door or go drop curtain? if you decide to go aluminum for the pod and replace your fuel tank I have a soft spot for hourstons so feel free to pm.

 

[uclueletcharters]

All valid points. But most big can be mitigated with maintenance and a snap on rain cover..
I suggest you stand in a self bailing 23 and then one that’s not before making that Decision. I know of a bunch I could point you in their direction when the time comes.

I hear what your saying I would give up 4 inches or so of freeboard myself for that benefit those are deep boats. But all depends what more important to each person I guess just my 2 cents . Always wondered why so many manufactures miss the mark on that. That’s why Grady’s are so popular self draining pretty much all compartments. Have owned many brands of boats all except Grady and the whaler I currently have had pumps due to in floor boxes etc which to me was a real miss on maintenance free design.

 

[salmonkiller01]

All valid points. But most can be mitigated with maintenance and a snap on rain cover..
I suggest you stand in a self bailing 23 and then one that’s not before making that Decision. I know of a bunch I could point you in their direction when the time comes. Do we even now if the floor ect is toast in this thing yet

All wood is toast. Even if it is ok. It is comming out. Just hope the keel wood is solid.
I will measure gunnel height on my 20 vs 23. Interested to see the difference.

 

[23Hourston]

I hear what your saying I would give up 4 inches or so of freeboard myself for that benefit those are deep boats. But all depends what more important to each person I guess just my 2 cents . Always wondered why so many manufactures miss the mark on that. That’s why Grady’s are so popular self draining pretty much all compartments. Have owned many brands of boats all except Grady and the whaler I currently have had pumps due to in floor boxes etc which to me was a real miss on maintenance free design.

The big issue in my opinion and you have to be careful here with the self bailing decks on the Hourston the roof height. When steering from the back you have to look through the windshield if the floor is to high ya end up looking at the top of the roof and are always having to hunch over to see. If your 5ft 5 no problem. Plus not to mention hitting your head right when you step down. Ha I still do it after 30 some years and my floor is as low as you can go I am 6 ft the gunnels are at my belt line