2159 outboard conversion

No worries FS. Just trying to help a guy out. That's why I asked the year if it was an 84 it should fit no problem. I just had the hole patched on my Seaport as I am podding it as well.



I can tell you forsure that pod wouldn't work on my hull. The transom curve is way different horizontally and vertically. You may want to check cause if your going to be hacking and wacking it's easier and cheaper to start fresh with a template.... I don't know if your planning on building the pod yourself like I did as I'm a fabricator/welder by trade. My hull is a 91. No bad intentions @tains meant. Good luck
 
Mine starts above the drain hole and is tapered up a few degrees can't remember exact degrees and my boat is in storage. It's semi flotation not a hull extension. My boat sits exactly the same as it did with the inboard ....the waterline didn't change at all with the amount of weight I took out and put back on hanging farther back . I also compensated and offset the angle of my swim platform so when the boat is sitting in the water or trolling the platform sits level if you don't do this and come straight back (90*)your platform will be under water. It all depends on the boat and how it sits, angles, how much you gonna lose in weight and then put back in etc I'm no expert on pods lol so guys may have diff ideas or suggestions but just some things for you to think about. All in all though I can't complain $500 in material and a weekend made it worth it for me!!!
So
The most major common mistakes that I have seen on these mods is 1. Not making the hull a straight extension of the hull and 2. Not enough floatation In the pod. There are a lot of variables but I strongly suggest staying away from adding ANY angle to the bottom of the pod. Takes away from performance big time. If you have to add angle to it you are best off to make that bottom part clear the planing surface absolutely.

So, since you made the most major common mistake in birdnest's opinion I was wondering how yours handles and performs. The one I'm building isn't a hull extension and will be clear of the planing surface. I'm doing mine in glass and the mould is ready and waxed for glass.
 
So


So, since you made the most major common mistake in birdnest's opinion I was wondering how yours handles and performs. The one I'm building isn't a hull extension and will be clear of the planing surface. I'm doing mine in glass and the mould is ready and waxed for glass.[/QUOTE
So


So, since you made the most major common mistake in birdnest's opinion I was wondering how yours handles and performs. The one I'm building isn't a hull extension and will be clear of the planing surface. I'm doing mine in glass and the mould is ready and waxed for glass.
boat handles fine and performs great ...there's a ton of boats from the factory with brackets and pods that are not a true hull extension. Mine starts about 2" above the bottom of the hull and has a slight taper up a couple degrees.
 
transom_bracket_olympic_1.jpg
What about this one. Seen lots build this way minus the side pieces from the floatation chamber and no complaints.
 
That's pretty much what my pod looks like although a little deeper as I have a xxl engine. Swim platform will offer additional transom reinforcement on mine.
 
transom_bracket_olympic_1.jpg
What about this one. Seen lots build this way minus the side pieces from the floatation chamber and no complaints.

This is what I would consider a fully clear planing surface on the pod.
 
I often see the s done where when in the water ther is only an inch of clearance between the water and the deck of the pod. Higher is better. Ideally 6-8 inches when not loaded.
Birdsnest something like this.


4500802_orig.jpg


If I did another one I would leave the space of the pod open to the inside of the hull for easy pumping.
By this do you mean the inboard/outboard hole in the transom and by easy pumping, you mean pumping the pod out with a bilge pump?
 
Birdsnest something like this.


4500802_orig.jpg


By this do you mean the inboard/outboard hole in the transom and by easy pumping, you mean pumping the pod out with a bilge pump?

No. A hole through the transom so you can reach into it from the inside of the boat. A common issue with enclosed pods is the creation of water. Water come in through the top access plate or is created over time through condensation.

That is an interesting design in the photo. I don't think it would have any performance issues since the planning surface is so minimal.
 
This is what I would consider a fully clear planing surface on the pod.
Me too, all the research I have done mentions clear planing surface allows you to raise your engine, prop in clearer water and higher efficiencies and better speeds. The offshore mounts had no flotation and that one has the benefit of flotation at rest.
 
No. A hole through the transom so you can reach into it from the inside of the boat. A common issue with enclosed pods is the creation of water. Water come in through the top access plate or is created over time through condensation.

That is an interesting design in the photo. I don't think it would have any performance issues since the planning surface is so minimal.
Why not just put a drain plug in the pod lol ?
 
ive been looking at a 2352 trophy with a pod on it... a few things ive noticed are that the pod/swimgrid angles down towards the back, it sits very low (wet feet if your standing back there)
if i buy it im debating putting a new pod on it to raise it up and provide more floatation as well as make it a hull extension vs upwards sweepingIMG_2096.JPG , or going back to an inboard/outboard.

IMG_2080.JPG
 
Why not just put a drain plug in the pod lol ?
Or access cover from the top that you need to tighten the engine bolts anyway. Although I have herd many say filling the Outdrive hole not necessary and I agree, I just figure if you did manage to rip the pod off even partially it gives you one more chance for staying afloat.
 
It is important not to confuse an offset engine bracket, as it is described above, with a bottom extension bracket, which has some of the same advantages, but not all. Since the bottom extension adds more wetted surface, it creates additional friction drag. In an offset bracket, when the hull is planing, the bracket does not touch the water.


No. A hole through the transom so you can reach into it from the inside of the boat. A common issue with enclosed pods is the creation of water. Water come in through the top access plate or is created over time through condensation.
I personally would have a enclosed transom and pod and just put a drain in the boat and one in the pod, as Fishin Solo has said. I hate water in my boat and there fore want a drain. That is one of the reasons I want a offset bracket and just don't trust the seal of the pod to the transom to leave that huge hole open to the floatation chamber.
 
Me too, all the research I have done mentions clear planing surface allows you to raise your engine, prop in clearer water and higher efficiencies and better speeds. The offshore mounts had no flotation and that one has the benefit of flotation at rest.
True. With this style you can have mount your motor higher for the planning surface comes up about 6 inches higher. But then you loose the floatation.
 
I felt I should clarified what I mentioned in my first post on this thread with some very quickly done chicken scratches.
I have seen the mistake as illustrated in image 1 twice. Once was my own design on a 17 foot Hurston. The issue it caused was proposing. I hat to instal trim tabs to push down the nose of the boat to counter the lift created by the turbulence and The sudden change in Angle. This also creates drag.
On another boat it had a fairly wide box and it was very difficult to get the boat out of the whole or on a plane. You would have to pin the motor and turn from side . Then suddenly the back would break free and launch just about jumpout of the water and away it would go. Some take 5 mins of trying to get it to go.
What was happening is there was reverse lift/ intense suction happening from the change in Angle and what had to happen was the pod bottom would have to break free from the planing surface by filling the space with air. IMG_1644.JPG
 
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I felt I should clarified what I mentioned in my first post on this thread with some very quickly done chicken scratches.
I have seen the mistake as illustrated in image 1 twice. Once was my own design on a 17 foot Hurston. The issue it caused was proposing. I hat to instal trim tabs to push down the nose of the boat to counter the lift created by the turbulence and The sudden change in Angle. This also creates drag.
On another boat it had a fairly wide box and it was very difficult to get the boat out of the whole or on a plane. You would have to pin the motor and turn from side . Then suddenly the back would break free and launch just about jumpout of the water and away it would go. Some take 5 mins of trying to get it to go.
What was happening is there was reverse lift/ intense suction happening from the change in Angle and what had to happen was the pod bottom would have to break free from the planing surface by filling the space with air. View attachment 31546

I agree with your thoughts, another option is #2 with a step (say just above drain hole) however I wasn't sure how turbulence should affect the outboard prop. My ski boat has some decent sized steps however it's an inboard so the prop isn't affected by them.
 
Thanks for all the feedback. I have learned a lot.

Now to decide if I install a hull extension or an offset bracket. At 21.5' long, a hull extension would be nice, but the offset bracket has some good effiency gains that cannot be ignored.
 
I have podded a few boats, in my opinion the pod that steps up is by far the best design out there. Here is my old 21' trophy that had a pod that followed the bottom of the hull, hated it, too much flotation and the boat sat stern high002.jpg IMGP0912.jpg
 
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