20 Hourston Project

[salmonkiller01]

I see you've done a lot of work so far and it looks good. However, I think you need to triangulate those braces for the transom much more...you need to extend them forward more to provide stiffness for the transom and engine bracket.

Was not going to bother With the stiffners on the transom. They have lots of meat and I will have a shelf built in.

 

[myles]

And it continues. Transom out all cleaned up. Stringers cut back. What a mess. I forgot how much I dislike deconstruction.

I feel your pain. Good work.

 

[myles]

Update. Transom in. Stringer tied in to where I cut them off. Still lots of work ahead

Is there a core in the transom? I cant tell. I did the same boat with the same job and added triangular stiffeners like you did after I glassed in a new transom.

Alum pod? I have some thoughts..

 

[salmonkiller01]

Is there a core in the transom? I cant tell. I did the same boat with the same job and added triangular stiffeners like you did after I glassed in a new transom.

Alum pod? I have some thoughts..

Transom cored 2 layers marine plywood. Tropical stuff. $230 a sheet. Ouch

Fiberglas bracket still. The boat drives great , rides great and sits perfect in the water. I will be adding more bracing stringer to stringer.
Anyone have thoughts on foaming the voids between stringers? will it add any rigidity? Dampen sounds??

 

[myles]

Transom cored 2 layers marine plywood. Tropical stuff. $230 a sheet. Ouch

Fiberglas bracket still. The boat drives great , rides great and sits perfect in the water. I will be adding more bracing stringer to stringer.
Anyone have thoughts on foaming the voids between stringers? will it add any rigidity? Dampen sounds??

OH man, that will be super strong.. the stiffeners you have are fine. Maybe just double up the thickness of them to be safe? mine where 2". I did the same thing on mine with stiffeners, transom 2" coosa with epoxy and 1708, 3 years no issues with a bigger motor and heavier pod.

as for the foam, 3# or 4# density pour foam is awesome as long as your sure it won't get wet. I added it everywhere. the boat is quiet and also stiffer I would think. I think I have 4 gallons left over would probably do the whole boat.

at $230 a sheet, I would have seriously just ordered Coosa board! my god lumber is crazy these days.

 

[salmonkiller01]

OH man, that will be super strong.. the stiffeners you have are fine. Maybe just double up the thickness of them to be safe? mine where 2". I did the same thing on mine with stiffeners, transom 2" coosa with epoxy and 1708, 3 years no issues with a bigger motor and heavier pod.

as for the foam, 3# or 4# density pour foam is awesome as long as your sure it won't get wet. I added it everywhere. the boat is quiet and also stiffer I would think. I think I have 4 gallons left over would probably do the whole boat.

at $230 a sheet, I would have seriously just ordered Coosa board! my god lumber is crazy these days.

Where did you get the Coosa? I am positive the foam will not get wet. will be sealed up solid

 

[tyee604]

OH man, that will be super strong.. the stiffeners you have are fine. Maybe just double up the thickness of them to be safe? mine where 2". I did the same thing on mine with stiffeners, transom 2" coosa with epoxy and 1708, 3 years no issues with a bigger motor and heavier pod.

as for the foam, 3# or 4# density pour foam is awesome as long as your sure it won't get wet. I added it everywhere. the boat is quiet and also stiffer I would think. I think I have 4 gallons left over would probably do the whole boat.

at $230 a sheet, I would have seriously just ordered Coosa board! my god lumber is crazy these days.

@myles Following, Also interested in where you got your Coosa Board ? And how much ? Been looking, hard to find locally

 

[myles]

@myles Following, Also interested in where you got your Coosa Board ? And how much ? Been looking, hard to find locally

Hi guys, I got the Coosa from two suppliers. Depending on their price and availability. 1st place is fishery supply in WA state. Send to a freight forwarder like Edge logistics to save $, or drive down during normal times for a weekend adventure to pick it up. It's expensive to ship being a sheet good...so one would probably make money bringing in a lift of it I bet.

Now I know this stuff is still like double the price of plywood, BUT if you spent countless hours to get the boat apart it's a small extra expense in the whole project to add nonorganic core which lasts forever. My theory is you are saving all this money doing it yourself so use the best possible material so you never have to do it again. Not to mention the time it saves when it comes to mounting hardware no backfilling with epoxy required to prevent rot.

...getting off my soapbox now.

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/coosa-board

The other place is

- Marine Outfitters - Ontario Canada

www.marineoutfitters.ca

A friend of mine has an account so I get a discount if they have it.

Also, everything else can get got from an old guy in Richmond Ultralux Plastics. Light and medium-density foam boards, glass, poly resin all WAY cheaper than anyone else locally. He might even be able to bring in coosa.

hope that helps.

m

 

[salmonkiller01]

Floor down! Yaaa. Went with marine ply for the floor not the tropical wood I take the worst pics. Lol

 

[salmonkiller01]

Making headway. Interior is all glassed in. Rounded corners.

 

[salmonkiller01]

Lots to go

 

[salmonkiller01]

Slowly getting the boat done. I have to say my finishing is terrible, I will take that on next spring to make it perfect. Hoping to launch Thursday
Lots of updates. New seat covering, airmar thru hull transducer, Bennett electric tabs 12x12, new switch panel, led gunnel lights.
Nothing screw to the floor, bedded and fibreglass. Gone thru 25 yards of 1708

 

[myles]

Slowly getting the boat done. I have to say my finishing is terrible, I will take that on next spring to make it perfect. Hoping to launch Thursday
Lots of updates. New seat covering, airmar thru hull transducer, Bennett electric tabs 12x12, new switch panel, led gunnel lights.
Nothing screw to the floor, bedded and fibreglass. Gone thru 25 yards of 1708

It will still slay fish regardless of what it looks like. One this is for sure its a lot nicer than before and super strong no doubt! making it pretty is a winter task its time for these 20'ers to get back on the water! I feel your pain.

 

[salmonkiller01]

It will still slay fish regardless of what it looks like. One this is for sure its a lot nicer than before and super strong no doubt! making it pretty is a winter task its time for these 20'ers to get back on the water! I feel your pain.

Maybe next winter I can get on the euro transom wait list with you. Your boat looks fantastic

 

[myles]

Maybe next winter I can get on the euro transom wait list with you. Your boat looks fantastic

I should have made a mold and we could have made "kits". It's been a journey of a project glad to see the light end of the tunnel no doubt. Are you running in the Campbell River area?

 

[salmonkiller01]

I should have made a mold and we could have made "kits". It's been a journey of a project glad to see the light end of the tunnel no doubt. Are you running in the Campbell River area?

I am out of nanoose. Schooner cove now

 

[myles]

I am out of nanoose. Schooner cove now

Oh nice, close to some great spots right now. We are missing all the fun.

 

[persistent]

Maybe next winter I can get on the euro transom wait list with you. Your boat looks fantastic

Add me to the Euro transom wait list too!

 

[myles]

Add me to the Euro transom wait list too!

I didn't know there were so many 20's kicking around I really should have made a multi-use mold. However you guys are all in luck, making the euro-style transom from scratch is faster than adding to an existing pod-like i did. For me I didn't want to deal with unbolting my pod and cutting it off the boat so it was better to add. Doing this doubled the amount of grinding I had to do.

If i had a 20' Houston with a bracket or something easy to take off i would definitely make the euro transom from scratch. I would start by building a mold of the hull all the way around then spay gel and lay down a few layers vinylester followed by polyester (all 1708), throw in Coosa core on the back and maybe some 8lb density core on sides. let all that kick-off then laminate the inside of it. then tie in the top section and fair that out. So all you have to fair is the connection to the combing and transom and inside of the wings each side, as well as the transom where in connects to the deck...
then scarf the hull and tab it in, fair that out and the part is connected to the hull. Then tab to the transom from the inside as well use vinylester for this or epoxy (has to be done before deck goes on) Could get really fancy and run strings from boat into the extension or make some stringers like i did and tab them in as well. They would be required for sure.

I think something along those lines would be the "easy" way to make this part and have it be more dimensionally perfect.

 

[fish brain]

I didn't know there were so many 20's kicking around I really should have made a multi-use mold. However you guys are all in luck, making the euro-style transom from scratch is faster than adding to an existing pod-like i did. For me I didn't want to deal with unbolting my pod and cutting it off the boat so it was better to add. Doing this doubled the amount of grinding I had to do.

If i had a 20' Houston with a bracket or something easy to take off i would definitely make the euro transom from scratch. I would start by building a mold of the hull all the way around then spay gel and lay down a few layers vinylester followed by polyester (all 1708), throw in Coosa core on the back and maybe some 8lb density core on sides. let all that kick-off then laminate the inside of it. then tie in the top section and fair that out. So all you have to fair is the connection to the combing and transom and inside of the wings each side, as well as the transom where in connects to the deck...
then scarf the hull and tab it in, fair that out and the part is connected to the hull. Then tab to the transom from the inside as well use vinylester for this or epoxy (has to be done before deck goes on) Could get really fancy and run strings from boat into the extension or make some stringers like i did and tab them in as well. They would be required for sure.

I think something along those lines would be the "easy" way to make this part and have it be more dimensionally perfect.

It all sounds so simple!
How hard could it be?