20 Hourston fixer upper
- Thread starter adrian1991
- Start date
adrian1991
Well-Known Member
They are all outwards like Corey mentioned extra grip haha... not to worried, if i have to sand down the hull one fall and paint it no biggie
adrian1991
Well-Known Member
Stizzla
Crew Member
Look at you go!!!
Doubleheader
Well-Known Member
Nice rig!
I just dealt with the same tiny blisters on a 1980 20’er. Sanded out easy with 220 and primed with Interlux Primecoat, finished with few coats of Brightside in Hatteras off-white which is a damn near perfect match. Was a lot of work though. I would suggest trying the 220 and moving up in grit until the wet sand territory. A good wax/buff would be good I bet. I had to much other patching to do and matching gelcoat sucks so went with paint.
I just dealt with the same tiny blisters on a 1980 20’er. Sanded out easy with 220 and primed with Interlux Primecoat, finished with few coats of Brightside in Hatteras off-white which is a damn near perfect match. Was a lot of work though. I would suggest trying the 220 and moving up in grit until the wet sand territory. A good wax/buff would be good I bet. I had to much other patching to do and matching gelcoat sucks so went with paint.
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Doubleheader
Well-Known Member
adrian1991
Well-Known Member
That might be the route I will be going but most of the bumps are on the hull above the water line but below the bump rails, does the paint hold up just as good as gellcoat.
EZZ70
Well-Known Member
No, 1 part paints are not as hard, if you want a harder finish go with a 2 part paint or repair the existing gelcoat... 2 part paints are more expensive
myles
Well-Known Member
Spray gelcoat , sand and polish. Do not paint the top side unless its repairable paint and you will get blisters in the paint no matter how good it is. Paint is great but im a big fan of Duratec and Gelcoat for the durability. More work sanding and polishing after but the prep is easier.
EZZ70
Well-Known Member
Myles, did you re-gel coated your whole boat? Dang that is allot of work...
adrian1991
Well-Known Member
Awsome ill keep that in mind was going to grab some silica and 1708 today and start fixing all the holes from previous downrigger mount holes in the gunnel
The botom side is a fall project when the boats sitting in its tent
Doubleheader
Well-Known Member
Yes and no... Gelcoat does go on thick and saves some prep for sure, but it’s a lot of maintenance, starts fading the day it hits the weather and stains very easy. Most paints are super easy to do touch ups and the same can of paint will feather in with some wet sanding a decade later. Paint is much more stain resistant and easier to maintain. I do prefer gelcoat for the rub rail down for docking and towing on gravel, very few contours for buffing/polishing as well. But a roof and deck which more likely to be exposed to sun, less likely to gaffs, docks and dings I chose the paint route. Halibut slime on gelcoat baked in the sun sucks lol. Jmho...
Doubleheader
Well-Known Member
Looks like gel to me, little worse than mine though. Hit it with some xylene and you’ll know for sure lol
Doubleheader
Well-Known Member
One thing I suggest is decide now what route you will go with for resurfacing in the future and chose your products appropriately for current touch ups. If your sticking with gelcoat I advise using only polyester based filling and patching products that will be compatible with gelcoat down the road. Once you go epoxy based you pretty much are stuck with the paint route down the road. Poly will react negatively with some epoxy based products, and will be a poor bond at best.
myles
Well-Known Member
No, just sprayed my pod, my spacer, and some other random parts. Also done the transom on a couple of friends whaler. Sprayed a hull on a 22ft pursuit.
My boat will get the topside re-gelled in a few years
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