Welcome to this blog about the process of restoring this beautiful classic 18.5 foot boat. I welcome open discussion on products and others previous experience. Idle hands are the devils workshop. That will not be the case this winter on this amazing island. Cheers to everyone who has undertaken a project similar to this. I look forward to any constructive input. Start date November 1st, 2021.
 

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Can you tell us the game plan and how far you are going with it/ what it needs?
 
Can you tell us the game plan and how far you are going with it/ what it needs?
November 7 and 8th, 2021 - I started off by checking the wiring and gauges and everything besides the honda rpm and honda dummy light, all gauges and electronics were corroded and not functioning properly so they were gutted. The seats are comfy but torn a bit and are just too big and bulky for my vision so I pulled those out also. Didnt pull the floor off yet but the stringers will 99 % be replaced. Sounded the transon and that will have to go. I will sand off all the blue paint to get down to the bare fiberglass and begin that process at the end. Pull the motor off before the end of this month. Have to build a stand for it first and get a cherry picker. So far that's the plan but one step at a time and take this project on in small pieces. So this week and weekend it will be floor removal, stringer inspection and removal of one and dry fit a new one.
 

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November 7 and 8th, 2021 - I started off by checking the wiring and gauges and everything besides the honda rpm and honda dummy light, all gauges and electronics were corroded and not functioning properly so they were gutted. The seats are comfy but torn a bit and are just too big and bulky for my vision so I pulled those out also. Didnt pull the floor off yet but the stringers will 99 % be replaced. Sounded the transon and that will have to go. I will sand off all the blue paint to get down to the bare fiberglass and begin that process at the end. Pull the motor off before the end of this month. Have to build a stand for it first and get a cherry picker. So far that's the plan but one step at a time and take this project on in small pieces. So this week and weekend it will be floor removal, stringer inspection and removal of one and dry fit a new one.
saw that unit on facebook hopefully you got a better deal then what he was asking... lol does the honda run?
 
saw that unit on facebook hopefully you got a better deal then what he was asking... lol does the honda run?
The motor runs. Changed out the fuel filters and checked the spark plugs. Soaked the cylinders with fogging oil for a bit. Looks like stabil was used in the fuel. Snapped a few bolts on the lower unit. The trim tab one I got angry and took a grinder to it. Will need to figure that out but will be installing hydraulic steering so torque steer won't be a major issue so we will see. Changed out the impeller. Drained the lower unit gear oil. Thought the seals were gone but pressure tested it and their ok. Must be one of the plastic o rings where a bit of water was introduced. Changed the engine oil before starting then added some 10 30 with a additive then ran for 10 min. Drained and added fresh oil and filter again. Another fuel filter to change on the motor and do a compression check but it fired up purred instantly. Checked the motor before even thinking of a restoration. Fingers crossed for the compression check and I'll also check to see if the motor is generating any codes.
 

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You are in for good times!

If you look up my posts there are construction notes I made during the disassembly and resto of my 20' the stringer and floor construction (from looking at a buddies gut he did on his 18.5) is very similar.

From looking at the pressure testing of your lower unit, I was taught the 5-15 rule. You do 5psi then 15 psi positive (which sounds silly) because sometimes pumping it up to the higher pressure will actually help seal a failed seal. Then you do 5-15 negative. The mass majority of leaks are from people re-using the 15 cent drain plug washer however. I also mention this because there is definitely a lot of water in your LU oil.

I would also recommend throwing all the wiring in garbage and doing it all now instead of later because a re-wire on a small boat like this is cheap compared to a fire at sea.

Love these boats, and I hope you have fun with the project,

Fritz
 
You are in for good times!

If you look up my posts there are construction notes I made during the disassembly and resto of my 20' the stringer and floor construction (from looking at a buddies gut he did on his 18.5) is very similar.

From looking at the pressure testing of your lower unit, I was taught the 5-15 rule. You do 5psi then 15 psi positive (which sounds silly) because sometimes pumping it up to the higher pressure will actually help seal a failed seal. Then you do 5-15 negative. The mass majority of leaks are from people re-using the 15 cent drain plug washer however. I also mention this because there is definitely a lot of water in your LU oil.

I would also recommend throwing all the wiring in garbage and doing it all now instead of later because a re-wire on a small boat like this is cheap compared to a fire at sea.

Love these boats, and I hope you have fun with the project,

Fritz
Yes the entire boat will have new wiring. There was surprisingly not that much water. Prob stirred it up before I drained it I guess. I put it in a plastic bottle and let it settle for maybe 4 days before it settled out and it's quite minimal. Maybe 2 table spoons in total. May not of been changed a few years is my guess. That technique sounds very sound. I figured 10psi for 10 min with no drop and minimal water I should be good but still before summer may do the seals anyway after I test run it a few times on the water.
 
Yes the entire boat will have new wiring. There was surprisingly not that much water. Prob stirred it up before I drained it I guess. I put it in a plastic bottle and let it settle for maybe 4 days before it settled out and it's quite minimal. Maybe 2 table spoons in total. May not of been changed a few years is my guess. That technique sounds very sound. I figured 10psi for 10 min with no drop and minimal water I should be good but still before summer may do the seals anyway after I test run it a few times on the water.
65247B6B-35AD-4C26-8F5D-04FAD58BF596.jpeg
 
Here are my post autopsy notes so you don’t have to dig, my boat is 1977.
My recommendation, would be to build it just like the factory other than capping the stringers properly. Also before you get nuts and burn all the glass off right down to the hull it’s much easier to leave a tiny slot remaining like a map for all the original structure. I would also recommend if you change the floor boards; at a minimum, barrier coat the bottom side with epoxy.
However, you don’t have anyone to satisfy but yourself with your end product.
I just like to see these boats continue with a second life!
And remember people might scoff at Doug fir stringers and plywood but these boats lasted for forty years so I encourage not reinventing the wheel.
There was also a hint of sarcasm in my post, doing floors and stringers is a horrid job! But it’s very rewarding when the floor drops back in.

Good luck
 
Here are my post autopsy notes so you don’t have to dig, my boat is 1977.
My recommendation, would be to build it just like the factory other than capping the stringers properly. Also before you get nuts and burn all the glass off right down to the hull it’s much easier to leave a tiny slot remaining like a map for all the original structure. I would also recommend if you change the floor boards; at a minimum, barrier coat the bottom side with epoxy.
However, you don’t have anyone to satisfy but yourself with your end product.
I just like to see these boats continue with a second life!
And remember people might scoff at Doug fir stringers and plywood but these boats lasted for forty years so I encourage not reinventing the wheel.
There was also a hint of sarcasm in my post, doing floors and stringers is a horrid job! But it’s very rewarding when the floor drops back in.

Good luck
That's awsome thank you so much, I was looking but could find that in your threads. Thank you. I've done stringers once before. I left that little bit at the bottom for a guide before too. I'm going to try and build it back with original in mind. Want to make it beautiful once again.
 
Gear oil/water separation - Here was what the water (unknown substance) looks like after separating from the gear oil. This has been sitting for a week. It's not fluid like wster but has a consistency more of a thin milkshake not a McDonald's milkshake lol
 

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Gear oil/water separation - Here was what the water (unknown substance) looks like after separating from the gear oil. This has been sitting for a week. It's not fluid like wster but has a consistency more of a thin milkshake not a McDonald's milkshake lol
looks like moisture build up in the gear case from prob sitting so long along with the odd o-ring that isnt quite sealing 100% right now. but you could run it as is and just check the lower unit oil every trip out. Or build a run up box and run it for a bit on a stand and see how much water is actually intruding.
 
I would use 1708 for the entire thing and use the lighter cloth only if you want to get a better finish for exposed areas. (in all my projects i have only used 1708, 1700 and matt) Of course, the supply chain is a mess right now so who knows what is even available. Wood is fine just make sure it's all sealed up with lots of resin and cloth. However, the boat isn't too big I would look at the cost of synthetic materials (Coosa, foam board, honeycomb). By far the biggest cost of this project will be time. Even if you spend 2x on the better core materials you would then have a boat that you could pass down to the next generation that will never rot. Water is tenacious and it always finds a way into carefully prepared wood layups. If I was worried about spending more on better materials then id probably re-consider owning an 18.5ft boat.

Going to be a fun project, fritz is right to leave 1-2" of the old stringer glass on each side of the core as a guide for the new stringers.
 
I would use 1708 for the entire thing and use the lighter cloth only if you want to get a better finish for exposed areas. (in all my projects i have only used 1708, 1700 and matt) Of course, the supply chain is a mess right now so who knows what is even available. Wood is fine just make sure it's all sealed up with lots of resin and cloth. However, the boat isn't too big I would look at the cost of synthetic materials (Coosa, foam board, honeycomb). By far the biggest cost of this project will be time. Even if you spend 2x on the better core materials you would then have a boat that you could pass down to the next generation that will never rot. Water is tenacious and it always finds a way into carefully prepared wood layups. If I was worried about spending more on better materials then id probably re-consider owning an 18.5ft boat.

Going to be a fun project, fritz is right to leave 1-2" of the old stringer glass on each side of the core as a guide for the new stringers.
Amen to 1708!
What an amazing laminate, if I could go back and done it again I would have even used it for the floor. It’s also compatible with both types of resin. You also make a good point about the size. Smaller boats need less materials. I’m still very happy I ponied up for all the west systems epoxy and probably added a few years to my life staying away from polyester resin (which there’s nothing wrong with) as you feel it slowly strangle you.

Look forward to seeing more Hourston threads:)
 
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Week ending Nov 14, 2021 - didn't get too much done but pulled most of the floor up on one side. Floor rotten but the stringers on first appearance look good. That splash well is an issue through. May have to figure a way to remove it. Went and got a cherry picker and some lumber to build a engine stand. Goal is to build the stand, put the cherry picker together and pull the motor off. After that, more floor then think about my lines on the back where to cut and possibly gut the splash well out.
 

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Dec 4th, 2021 - finally a half decent day and finished up my motor stand and pulled the motor. seem like it originally was sitting low compared to the bottom of the transom but something I will have to look into later. I noticed the transom is convex from left to right. Not sure if that's warpage over time or that's design. Unsure of how to duplicate this as of now. I'm going to cut the splashwell out tomorrow and out a redline on one of my pics to show where and see if that makes sense to anyone who has done this in the past. Only way to get access and I won't be pulling the entire cap off. little nerve racking but can't wait to get into it deeper.20211204_155603.jpg
 

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Okay,
I believe the exterior convex crown you are referring to is more than likely original. My Hourston had a bubble butt (so to speak).
This is only a recommendation as I'm not completely sure if your plan includes replacing the transom. Do it from the inside! Way more of a pain in the butt but less likely to wrack your hull (even though the chances are slim they do exist). I used internal shoring off the structure inside to hold the shape. I rebuilt my boat in stages: transom first, followed by Hourston's ridiculous keelson, inboard stringers then outboard stringers. Take lots of photos. Make a map of your floor. Make a map of anything you tear apart. I levelled my hull on jacks using a spirit level and ran a few snap lines and wrote down a whole pile of measurements and threw nothing out, that was cut out until the floor went back in.
I know..........ANAL!
But my boat rides great. And It's as straight as when it left the factory.
However I think you will also find out production boat hulls aren't that perfect either, but you can inadvertently put a rocker or hook in the hull and really F things up especially when you are fiddling close to the transom.
The pics below show the shoring and wedges I used to hold pressure on the plywood before it was glassed. Also my floor map is overboard and was done in a 1:10 scale so you can actually loft off the drawing using an engineers tape measure in tenths.

Again, you can do whatever you wish as long as it works. And have fun.
 

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Why are you against removing the top of the hull? That’s definitely the easiest way for you to access everything. Not as daunting of a task as you might think. Cutting the red line doesn’t help with structural support when you put it back together
 
Why are you against removing the top of the hull? That’s definitely the easiest way for you to access everything. Not as daunting of a task as you might think. Cutting the red line doesn’t help with structural support when you put it back together
I'm working outside and once I empty my tent garage (pic attached) I just may be able to tightly fit the boat in there. Plus I was thinking I would ruin my original metal rub rail. no way I wouldn't destroy it then it's a rubber one going on.
 

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Okay,
I believe the exterior convex crown you are referring to is more than likely original. My Hourston had a bubble butt (so to speak).
This is only a recommendation as I'm not completely sure if your plan includes replacing the transom. Do it from the inside! Way more of a pain in the butt but less likely to wrack your hull (even though the chances are slim they do exist). I used internal shoring off the structure inside to hold the shape. I rebuilt my boat in stages: transom first, followed by Hourston's ridiculous keelson, inboard stringers then outboard stringers. Take lots of photos. Make a map of your floor. Make a map of anything you tear apart. I levelled my hull on jacks using a spirit level and ran a few snap lines and wrote down a whole pile of measurements and threw nothing out, that was cut out until the floor went back in.
I know..........ANAL!
But my boat rides great. And It's as straight as when it left the factory.
However I think you will also find out production boat hulls aren't that perfect either, but you can inadvertently put a rocker or hook in the hull and really F things up especially when you are fiddling close to the transom.
The pics below show the shoring and wedges I used to hold pressure on the plywood before it was glassed. Also my floor map is overboard and was done in a 1:10 scale so you can actually loft off the drawing using an engineers tape measure in tenths.

Again, you can do whatever you wish as long as it works. And have fun.
did you have your full information on this site what you did? I got to find it because I really like the approach you took and will help me out so much
 
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