gunnerlove
Well-Known Member
To make it better that's my dad in the pic and he is in his late 60's. Both of us have tinnitus from military service, and don't want it getting worse.
1977 Searay 240 rebuild
- Thread starter gunnerlove
- Start date
gunnerlove
Well-Known Member
Like I thought there was no way for the inevitable water to drain from the fuel tank compartment, what a stink when it started moving. On the plus side the foam around the tank soaked up most of it. 430 liter capacity with a V bottom, if my math is right. I figure 450L will fit with the soon to be new rectangular tank (the only time you have to much fuel is when you are on fire). It looks much better with the foam in the garbage and after a scrub and rinse. And yes I see the tabbing that needs to be ground back as there was zero prep done to the hull and it is lifting. Next week I want to get a look at more/all stringers.
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gunnerlove
Well-Known Member
I got a weekend off so back to the Searay. The foam runs from dryish to dripping wet and the fuel fill ran through galvanized ducting and dryer vent, very classy. The 9 garbage bags of foam so far have come out easier than I expected. I always wondered why it listed a few inches to starboard. View attachment 31423 View attachment 31423 
gunnerlove
Well-Known Member
gunnerlove
Well-Known Member
The salt crystals may indicate a long term leak seeing how the big ones were 1/4" across. 
Tugcapitan
Well-Known Member
Right on, love these threads. Hope I won't do it myself one day 
gunnerlove
Well-Known Member
I spent the day peeling the glass( what little there is) off the stringers and bulkheads. 
The wood seems surprisingly solid.
The wood seems surprisingly solid.
gunnerlove
Well-Known Member
This afternoon I got at the cuddy floor. I removed the glass by running a putty knife under the glass near the edges.
2 layers of soaked 3/4" ply was the floor. Thankfully I am running out of places to look for wet wood and foam.
Noticed something interesting though, on Saturday I jacked the trailer up a couple of inches and leveled it on axle stands, I also blocked up the pod. Well it is now hovering over the axle stands and blocks. I guess there has been a bit more weight loss than I anticipated.
2 layers of soaked 3/4" ply was the floor. Thankfully I am running out of places to look for wet wood and foam.
Noticed something interesting though, on Saturday I jacked the trailer up a couple of inches and leveled it on axle stands, I also blocked up the pod. Well it is now hovering over the axle stands and blocks. I guess there has been a bit more weight loss than I anticipated.
gunnerlove
Well-Known Member
Found some dirt.
stephennicholls531
Active Member
During my 17.5' Double Eagle rebuild, I had closed-cell foam sprayed in by a Campbell River Foam specialist. He came right to my residence with his truck-mounted equipment, and did the job in about 30 minutes. ....and the price was VERY reasonable. I went with spray-in closed-cell foam after I noticed (when removing the old water-soaked foam, which really wasn't true closed-cell foam) that the factory pour-in foam job was done in thick, chunky layers/sections, and that so much foam had been poured in at once in the bow area that the heat from the foam curing process had actually cooked the foam next to the hull into a black, glassy crud. The spray-in process seems - to me - to be much better product.....and well worth looking into.
Keep posting - your project is gonna be great!
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sly_karma
Crew Member
Good work @gunnerlove! I went through all this with my boat three years ago, bag after bag of waterlogged foam. I too went with residential closed cell 2 lb spray urethane foam. The stuff sets up so rigid, the only function stringers serve now is screw backing for the deck ply.
gunnerlove
Well-Known Member
Well today I chased wet foam and failing 39 year old plywood up the port side of the boat. The aft bulkhead that makes up the rear wall of the head was inches thick and contained 2x4 spacers amongst its dozen or so pieces so it all came out along with the rest of the toilet partition (and toilet). The carpet behind the toilet is gonzo as is the stupid shelf that I bounced my head off of once to often. I am going to bond all the new partitions to the deck and hull with nice big easy to clean fillets and Shiney easy to clean paint. I had to cut the v berth storage out as well as there was a layer of 1/2" ply over the original 1/2" ply and water had gotten between them and had saturated the top layer. Pics to follow but the camera is in the boat and I have seen enough of it for the day.
40 hours so far.
40 hours so far.
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gunnerlove
Well-Known Member
I replaced nearly a dozen pieces of wood and a couple dozen screws with one bulkhead that actually fits hull to deck head.
gunnerlove
Well-Known Member
I was able to get the cuddy ground to the point that I can put in the 3/4" once I cut it to fit. The last of the hull sides have been sanded clean of old deck. The fish well and deck behind it in the transom are now open and foam free.
Here are a few of the head and transom.
Here are a few of the head and transom.
gunnerlove
Well-Known Member
I really can't understand all the water traps and lack of drainage. Then again I am so glad they didn't glue the deck down. The next guy to pull this boat apart is going to curse me and my abundant use of epoxy, resin, glass and adhesives.
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fishin solo
Crew Member
Your going to town on it!!!! What's the eta till decks are bloody ?
gunnerlove
Well-Known Member
May long weekend. I am fishing for my birthday.
noluck
Well-Known Member
looks like you are close to having the ****** part of the job done, now the fun part!
gunnerlove
Well-Known Member
I will have a couple of days of grinding left but am looking forward to fabricating and fitting the plywood pieces because then I can actually involve the kids over spring break.