Yamaha main/kicker tie bar

Dave....

Member
I have a Yamaha 200 / 9.9 combo on my Searunner and dealer installed a panther tie-bar ( which broke in first hour ). I want to leave them connected all the time and not have to climb onto pod to connect when i want to use the kicker. The panther didnt react well to the main down with kicker up... Any better options out there for the ball-joint setups on the motors ?
thx
 
Head down to a place like Trotac in Victoria, and they can set you up with a threaded heavy stainless solid rod and heavy stainless rod ends etc. The Yami dealer will have the mounting plate for the kicker (that's where I got mine when I got the new kicker) and you can make a mounting plate for the main out of plate stainless. That's how my ball joint tie bar system was put together, and it has lasted almost 17 years now with no problems. As someone mentioned in a previous thread, put a nut on the threaded rod before you cut it to size so that when you remove the nut it cleans up the cut threads, so you don't cross thread when you put on the ends. Measure twice and cut once and don't make it too short or too long and exceed the adjustment amount in the ends necessary to align your motors correctly.

Mine is mounted all the time and both motors can go up and down together or independently with the tie bar in place and mounted to the front of a Yami 9.9HT and a Merc Opti 225 both of which are way out the back on the pod. The way the pod is designed and the motors mounted and spaced, it is an almost straight line and not greatly off level for the tie rod, which helps keep within the vertical range of the ball joints.

In your situation I might be tempted to go back to the dealer and complain first. Especially if they installed both the motors and the tie system.
 
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ive been using this since 2012. Flawless for me. You have to lubricate it annually. Lift your main or your kicker anytime without any issues at all. Turns both all the time. That’s not an issue at all. I run a Yamaha F250 and a Yam HT 9.9.
 
I did the exact same setup on my boat (TJ Chinook), between a F150 yamaha and 9.9. I bought the panther system and the Stainles tie bar that connects to the main. Pricey but trust me worth it for versatility. Make sure you have the yamaha bracket on the kicker. It takes time to test all the options, mains and kicker up and down and to make sure there is clearance.
A good friend of mine have a searunner, dealer installed system, same F150 to 9.9 and one day I see him on the water standing on the platform. On land I asked him what was that about and he said he has to disconnect his tie-bar to run the main down and kicker up. I looked at his system and we ended up just switching the ball joint from bottom to top and that solved it. Free clearance in all configurations. Dealer installs are not always perfect.
 
You have a picture of your engines ? Need to see geometry

If it's doable, the seastar twin engine tiebar is what we use. Not cheap but does not **** up
 
Head down to a place like Trotac in Victoria, and they can set you up with a threaded heavy stainless solid rod and heavy stainless rod ends etc. The Yami dealer will have the mounting plate for the kicker (that's where I got mine when I got the new kicker) and you can make a mounting plate for the main out of plate stainless. That's how my ball joint tie bar system was put together, and it has lasted almost 17 years now with no problems. As someone mentioned in a previous thread, put a nut on the threaded rod before you cut it to size so that when you remove the nut it cleans up the cut threads, so you don't cross thread when you put on the ends. Measure twice and cut once and don't make it too short or too long and exceed the adjustment amount in the ends necessary to align your motors correctly.

Mine is mounted all the time and both motors can go up and down together or independently with the tie bar in place and mounted to the front of a Yami 9.9HT and a Merc Opti 225 both of which are way out the back on the pod. The way the pod is designed and the motors mounted and spaced, it is an almost straight line and not greatly off level for the tie rod, which helps keep within the vertical range of the ball joints.

In your situation I might be tempted to go back to the dealer and complain first. Especially if they installed both the motors and the tie system.
Head down to a place like Trotac in Victoria, and they can set you up with a threaded heavy stainless solid rod and heavy stainless rod ends etc. The Yami dealer will have the mounting plate for the kicker (that's where I got mine when I got the new kicker) and you can make a mounting plate for the main out of plate stainless. That's how my ball joint tie bar system was put together, and it has lasted almost 17 years now with no problems. As someone mentioned in a previous thread, put a nut on the threaded rod before you cut it to size so that when you remove the nut it cleans up the cut threads, so you don't cross thread when you put on the ends. Measure twice and cut once and don't make it too short or too long and exceed the adjustment amount in the ends necessary to align your motors correctly.

Mine is mounted all the time and both motors can go up and down together or independently with the tie bar in place and mounted to the front of a Yami 9.9HT and a Merc Opti 225 both of which are way out the back on the pod. The way the pod is designed and the motors mounted and spaced, it is an almost straight line and not greatly off level for the tie rod, which helps keep within the vertical range of the ball joints.

In your situation I might be tempted to go back to the dealer and complain first. Especially if they installed both the motors and the tie system.

I’ve noticed on mine that I’m getting a lot more rattle after putting a new kicker on. Do these balls come in different sizes or any suggestions on dampening the sound down? I tried shortening the bar but it pulls the kicker alignment in too much. Almost like the ball needs a light coat of something to increase it’s size.
 
I’ve noticed on mine that I’m getting a lot more rattle after putting a new kicker on. Do these balls come in different sizes or any suggestions on dampening the sound down? I tried shortening the bar but it pulls the kicker alignment in too much. Almost like the ball needs a light coat of something to increase it’s size.
YES i cut a pieace of fuel line hose that sits over the ball basically make your own thick washer whatever size ball ya got as there is different sizes 3/8 or 5/16 etc then cut it and slam it down so its tight grease with a bit of grease good to go ..
The ratte used to drive me nut too
 
YES i cut a pieace of fuel line hose that sits over the ball basically make your own thick washer whatever size ball ya got as there is different sizes 3/8 or 5/16 etc then cut it and slam it down so its tight grease with a bit of grease good to go ..
The ratte used to drive me nut too

Bingo.
 
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