Anyone have a stainless prop for new Yamaha F300 they want to sell? Mine came with a 15-1/4 diameter by 19 pitch and I can’t get more than 5400rpm wot. I’m hoping a 15-1/4 17p will do the trick but open to any suggestions. Current prop pictured
WTB Yamaha F300 Propeller
- Thread starter DuroBoat
- Start date
uclueletcharters
Well-Known Member
What boat are you running it on? I ran quite a few 300’s on different boats. Ran 15” and 17” depending on the hull. If I remember correct I think all my engines topped out around 5400rpm on all set ups. If your looking for a better hole shot or maintaining a firmer plane on swells a 17” would be good option if your finding the 19” luggy
23 gulfstream 300hp 17” approx 39-40mph wide open
26 Robalo 300hp 15” was a dog under powered not sure top speed
Two 24 searay laguna fdc 300hp 17” perfect setup 42ish mph
3370 Pursuit twin 300hp 17” 48-50 mph
All had saltwater series sds props
23 gulfstream 300hp 17” approx 39-40mph wide open
26 Robalo 300hp 15” was a dog under powered not sure top speed
Two 24 searay laguna fdc 300hp 17” perfect setup 42ish mph
3370 Pursuit twin 300hp 17” 48-50 mph
All had saltwater series sds props
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Podded 22’ seasport.
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uclueletcharters
Well-Known Member
Nice rig. There’s a prop can’t remember name of it but a crew boat in Ukee that has 2 300’s and he put a new brand of prop on it has larger blade etc and he is just raving about performance and mpg. Boost Mobile Marine recommended that prop for him sounds like there going on a lot of boats now. You could ask him what prop that is. Be nice if you could borrow a prop to try. I’m in Ukee and have a 17” pitch you could try but you probably live to far away.
I’ve run a few different props SDS saltwater series is silky smooth shifting just a light tick shifting. Performance was solid but I wouldn’t rave about the performance same with Mirage props no Sds cushion performance similar. Enertia prop with drop in hub was a big step up compared to the mirages I was running at the time. Rev 4’s I have now seem good but the boat has a lot of power so I think any prop would shine
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BC Coast Pilot
Well-Known Member
Eco Enertia steps up the dia to 16 inch and improves economy over the Rev 4. Run the Merc prop selector
www.mercurymarine.com
Mercury Marine - A Worldwide Leader in Marine Propulsion | Mercury Marine
Manufacturers of outboard motors and MerCruiser inboard engines, with over 4000 dealers in the United States.
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uclueletcharters
Well-Known Member
Ones I ran that are my fav all time prop was Enertia not Enertia Eco. Never ran an Eco version. Duroboat I bet if you ran a 19 enertia you would pic up performance all the way around and RPM. Thinner blades with progressive pitch. Not sure if they make an SDS hub mine were drop in which was great because if your hub ever failed which never happened to replace just drop new hub in tighten down and your back fishing. If you have a Yamaha SDS prop now it’s hard to get past how nice the shift is though. Aside from that Merc props are better designed and performing props thats what I’ve experienced and will go on Yamis as well. Looks like merc has a soft shift flow tork hub drop in hub now.
www.mercurymarine.com
Comp Series Enertia® | Mercury Marine
Progressive Performer A step head of traditional steel propellers. Faster, stronger, more responsive.
www.mercurymarine.com
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ship happens
Crew Member
At 5400 WOT your not overpropped. What exactly are you trying to gain or change?
Reading everywhere that the Yamahas are prone to making oil if not run hard… also would like a little more rpm to get out of the hole with a full load. I think I typically cruise at 4,000rpm at 30 knots. At 5400rpm I’m over 40 knots and a bit sketchy. Thought I should bring up the rpm a little, drop the top end speed and better hole shot loaded and higher cruise rpm?
ship happens
Crew Member
Sounds like you would be happy with a 4 blade. Try an 14.25 x 17
I can't comment on the making oil thing. Making oil however is fuel not being burned and blowing past the rings into the crankcase.
uclueletcharters
Well-Known Member
None of the 300’s I had which were 4.2l 4 strokes made oil. The only time I heard of a large 4 stroke make oil was during trolling hours over an extended period of time. It wasn’t a Yami so I think all brands are can be prone, maybe a break in issue. I think the stat trick is a good one if you start to notice that. Break in is probably super important. When breaking my engines in would run them all over the RPM range and not stay at one cruise Rpm for much longer than a few minutes. Probably over doing it but wanted to ensure break in was as perfect as I could make it.
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Squire
Well-Known Member
I don’t have one for you but you’re absolutely right that you need that same prop in 17P if you’re only getting 5400 rpm. You might be OK with a light load but pile in some gear and fishermen and you’ll really be luggin.
I get around 5800 with the SWSII 17P and the Powertech OFS4 17P
Rayvon
Well-Known Member
The prop on my 225 Yamaha is 17T x 15 1/2,will that fit your 300? It's a stainless Yamaha saltwater series 2.I'll pull it off for you to try if your sure it will fit.I'm in Vic.too. The best I could get out of it at my Grady 208 sea trial was 5300 RPM,so I thought maybe I should go down a size too.
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Old Fisher
Active Member
Agreed. I did the same to my F300 after an initial period of “making oil”. Yamaha uses 140F thermostats to try to prevent salt precipitating out inside the engine. This apparently happens less when engine temps are held down. BUT cold engine temps can prevent good piston ring seal which is essential to the life of your engine. Two Yami dealers told me that “making oil” (leaky piston rings causing unburned fuel to leak past the rings into the crankcase) was no big deal - not a problem. Bullcrap! When your crankcase lubricating oil is diluted with a solvent (gasoline), it’s a big deal. And will shorten the life of your engine. Suzuki uses 170F thermostats. They are exactly the same as the Yami thermostats except for the temp rating. Easily interchangeable. Higher engine temps result in better ring seal.
shuter
Member
Same story for me on a 2022 f250. Hotter/Zuki Tstat did the trick.
uclueletcharters
Well-Known Member
That sounds like a great fix if your having that issue. My only concern would be warranty would definitely get dealer to do it on a new motor and get in writing that it won’t void the warranty in the event something happened. I would be worried it would be an excuse not to back you in the event of. I know if you make any alterations to a vehicles engine they won’t back a warranty claim. Maybe not an issue but worth asking before doing it.
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