Would it be an idea to secure the downrigger weight with an extra line?

[Mastiff]

I am awaiting my Scotty HP 2106 with stainless steel cable, and I have three weights here, of slightly different types. One pancake with fin:



One Wiggler with fin (I have the 7 kilos version, but it looks the same):



And one Bottom Seeker with fin:



I believe that means that they should not rotate in use. I have read enough here to know that sometimes weights break off, either from contact with the bottom or because the cable just snaps. To avoid loosing weights, would it be an idea to tie a heavy duty fishing line from one of the fixing points on the weight and to some kind of a clip on the cable? I have bought a Sure Stop Pro with snubber to use on the downrigger, so perhaps this is not very practical, since the clip would have to be so far up that I can't get the weight high enough? I do not have equipment to crimp on a new swivel on the cable, should I instead of "MacGyvering" get a crimping tool and cut off half a meter of the cable each season?

 

[sly_karma]

Oh boy. You're about to get a LOT of advice, including pictures. Members here have considerable debate about downrigger terminal tackle. Wire or braid? Snubber or no snubber? Stopper beads or swivels? Bonus feature: at least six different spellings for gangion line.

Sit back and enjoy!

 

[Adrenafin]

If you like excessive pull back go for it

 

[Mastiff]

That is a good point. More drag from the extra line is probably not what I want to fish on 50 meters.

 

[scott craven]

When using finned weights make sure the fins have a slight outward bend and always fish them on the same side of the boat. I would not advise trying to secure them in any other manor or you may lose considerably more gear than just a weight.
JMHO

 

[Mastiff]

@scott craven Thank you! The outward bend is to avoid getting the cable in the propeller, right? The downrigger will be mounted around a meter from the rear of the boat, with the boom around 60 cm outside. See the pic. Do I still need to have that bend?

 

[BC Coast Pilot]

Finned weights are best used in matched sets, if you put a bend in it, it effectively "rudders" the weight out to increase the spread. Don't mix em up. Personally I would start with no bend to see how things track, as for the extra safety line, don't overthink it, it will just break at the next weakest link anyway, maybe at the pulley.

 

[scott craven]

Yes, it will keep the weights tracking slightly away from the boat.
Important on turns.
In strong current with no bends in the ss fin the weights can cross over each other
and tangle under the boat.
That's a real ***** to deal with....

 

[Doug]

Buy the crimp pliers you need. Plier $25 VS Ball $60.

Every few times out cut off a couple of feet off your downrigger line and re tie your ball connection clip. Re tie the braid or the wire pinch clips (2). All the wear seems to be in the connection area. I was told to re do the line ends by the guy who was making my cannon balls so I started doing this every few trips and never lost a ball again. We use 20lb balls

 

[Mastiff]

I will only run with a single downrigger, so crossing of lines is not a problem. I know it's possible to bend the tail of the Wiggler, I'll seee with the other two.

@Doug Really? Every time you are out? Is this common with steel cable for amateurs? I see you are running a fishing charters, so I guess it's more important for you, and you run your equipment a lot more.

 

[Rain City]

I will only run with a single downrigger, so crossing of lines is not a problem. I know it's possible to bend the tail of the Wiggler, I'll seee with the other two.

@Doug Really? Every time you are out? Is this common with steel cable for amateurs? I see you are running a fishing charters, so I guess it's more important for you, and you run your equipment a lot more.

Focus more on proper brake tension and you'll be just fine

 

[Doug]

I will only run with a single downrigger, so crossing of lines is not a problem. I know it's possible to bend the tail of the Wiggler, I'll seee with the other two.

@Doug Really? Every time you are out? Is this common with steel cable?

Every 4 to 5 trips, I re do the connection point on the braided or wire DR line. If I see any damage in the wire at any location of the wire, I will also cut that section out. If one little strand is broken in the SS line that area will break soon. 0 lost 20lb balls in 3 year.
Every trip out I also cut off 2+ ft off my fishing rod line and re tie. I'm still using the same flashers for the last 3 years and I fish about 40 X per yr.

The weak link in any line is the connection point.

 

[kaelc]

Every 4 to 5 trips, I re do the connection point on the braided or wire DR line. If I see any damage in the wire at any location of the wire, I will also cut that section out. If one little strand is broken in the SS line that area will break soon. 0 lost 20lb balls in 3 year.
Every trip out I also cut off 2+ ft off my fishing rod line and re tie. I'm still using the same flashers for the last 3 years and I fish about 40 X per yr.

The weak link in any line is the connection point.

What knots are you using? I'm using Palomar as often as I can but lost a few things this year.

 

[kaelc]

The rubber snubber is a good idea, very forgiving when it gets caught up. Definitely tie and re-cut regularly. I lost one this year due to not doing this, which wasn't even caught on the bottom.