Winterising your boat
- Thread starter tubilah
- Start date
wolf
Well-Known Member
Well if your going to use it during the winter i suggest you put a trouble light into under the dog house a 40 watt bulb will do thats enough heat so the condensation stays down and enough heat to stop any freezing going on and every time take it out and back in and it should be fine.
P.S. make sure its not resting on any wires etc or youll burn them.
Good luck Wolf
P.S. make sure its not resting on any wires etc or youll burn them.
Good luck Wolf
HALILLAMA
Active Member
Safer to put a'40w Rough Service bulb'in a trouble light inside a
large tin can...it doesn't get as hot too touch the juice can w/light inside the can...still works to keep condensation out and wont burn hoses,engine wiring etc..
Fumes cannnot be ignited by light[xx(]only by open spark or flame...besides there should be none present...is your bilge clean? are the tanks vented externally outside the hull?is your spark arrestor on the carb? Better to be Safe than sorry[^]
large tin can...it doesn't get as hot too touch the juice can w/light inside the can...still works to keep condensation out and wont burn hoses,engine wiring etc..
Fumes cannnot be ignited by light[xx(]only by open spark or flame...besides there should be none present...is your bilge clean? are the tanks vented externally outside the hull?is your spark arrestor on the carb? Better to be Safe than sorry[^]
Tailspin
Active Member
Trouble lights can and do burn out! My buddies volvo 5.0 block in his 04 20' four winns lake boat, raw water cooled/no antifreeze in the water jackets. It went snap,crackle, pop 2 years ago at -5. Always best to pull the plugs outta the manifolds just in case? Mine is the closed system as most salt chuck boats are. But the manifolds will still crack if you don't pull the 2 plugs.They are easy to get at.
Actually, Fluid Film is amazing stuff as well! Just hope you don't have to handle anything you spray it on, but it puts WD-40 to shame.
Would not hurt to fresh-water flush it good, that way you not only get the salt out, but when the motor is nice and hot, the water will have a good chance of evaporating out of your cooling system when you are done, and may delay the onset of Big Bill for that one. Leave your leg down so that fresh water does not puddle in it and freeze (Big Bill's Uncle here). Frozen water can crack a sterndrive! Change your oil , that way if there was any acid buildup or other crap in it, it will be gone (Get your engine good an hot for this one too). If you had a tiny amount of water in the oil, it could puddle in the bottom of the pan and rust through. Would be a good time to inspect all wiring ring connectors too, they seem to like to break off when you launch in the springtime. Hook up a daytank with a small amount of gas and a healthy does of Fuel Stabilizer while you are running it for the flush, and oil change pre-heat, that way you don't have gas gumming up your float bowls.
Ensure that your starter is DRY, nothing lick a little rust to run the brushes out of it in the spring.
Last but not least, that @#%&^*@ ignition lockout near the back of the engine (Mercruiser only) should have a healthy does of grease covering it so that it won't lock out your ignition when it shouldn't.
(I am glad I went outboard!)
T
The Penguin
Guest
what about a block heater guys is that enough heat? is it safer than a light bulb?
Probably lots safer, but it only keeps the engine coolandfrom freezing, I don't know if it would keep the whole enging dry like a light bulb would (To keep the rust down). For the hydro expense of a block heater, you could just get a "Damp Chaser" from West Marine, it is a low power, high air-movement space heater that is safe to leave unattended. A ceramic heater would be A-1, but if something went wrong you would have trouble. ANd they are not cheap to run at all!
P
PinchMe
Guest
My mechanic advised me to run non-toxic RV antifreeze through the water intake, 'til it flows pink thru the exhaust.
Thus protecting against block freeze.
I run a 3.0 litre, 4 cylinder Volvo Penta I/O.
I've done it this way for the last two Winters with no adverse affects.
PinchMe
Thus protecting against block freeze.
I run a 3.0 litre, 4 cylinder Volvo Penta I/O.
I've done it this way for the last two Winters with no adverse affects.
PinchMe
T
The Penguin
Guest
we younger/new guys to boating do appreciate advice on this a very important but understated subject that can cost $$$$$$$$$$$ if we miss on something
thanks for your advice guys
thanks for your advice guys
Merrittboy
Active Member
If the boat is kept in a garage will it need winterizing, even if the garage is not heated?
K
knucklebuster
Guest
-10 monday and tuesday. No matter what, someone is going to get into trouble from this. Some people just don't think its that big a deal.
Listen to what some of the members have said and do it now.
Merrittboy, don't take chances. get at least a light on it.
Better to drain your manifolds and stuff.
We have fresh snow on the hills here. I'm heading to the boat this morning to turn on ceramic heater in cabin.Already have bulb on below decks.
BRRRRRRRRR!!!!
Listen to what some of the members have said and do it now.
Merrittboy, don't take chances. get at least a light on it.
Better to drain your manifolds and stuff.
We have fresh snow on the hills here. I'm heading to the boat this morning to turn on ceramic heater in cabin.Already have bulb on below decks.
BRRRRRRRRR!!!!
K
knucklebuster
Guest
Snow like crazy in Duncan right now. Huge flakes and its stickin'.
For much longer battery life I suggest topping batteries off with distilled water and then giving them a full charge (with the caps off) prior to storing them.
Also, never store your battery sitting on metal or concrete...set it on wood or plastic, etc
I have had better luck not draining carbs, or fogging the cylinders...just run the engine for a fair while with a fuel additive prior to storing.
Also, never store your battery sitting on metal or concrete...set it on wood or plastic, etc
I have had better luck not draining carbs, or fogging the cylinders...just run the engine for a fair while with a fuel additive prior to storing.
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