What do you think is the best transducer? Why?

Hey everyone,
So I’m just in the middle of finalizing everything on my boat. Podded out a 23 Hourston etc etc broke as it gets now with a couple new motors and here I am asking about transducers.
Running a Lowrance Elite 7ti2 and a HDS9 Carbon. I’ve got two transducers as it sits, an airmar p66 and an active imaging 3in1. Having trouble finding out which is the better transducer, and have found a good deal on another 3in1. To clarify, I will be running two transducers, just awaiting thoughts here.
Short story long what’s your favourite transducer and why do you think that? Should I get the other 3in1 and run that on the elite, or should I stick with what I got? Having trouble finding info online
May your bobbers go down.
 
Thanks for the response! I’ve read all the build threads on the boats along with yours! Is this going to be an accidental hourston build thread?
Her name is TailChaser
Here’s a few pics of the process so far.
 

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Thanks for the response! I’ve read all the build threads on the boats along with yours! Is this going to be an accidental hourston build thread?
Her name is TailChaser
Here’s a few pics of the process so far.
Is that a custom cabin? Looks taller…
 
Is that a custom cabin? Looks taller…
Yeah you bet, the guy before me had the cabin cut off and raised with bigger windows. No doors either, and the deck is all one level. Works for me cause I’ll be chartering out of this boat so it’ll be nice with guests, they can be out of the weather but still be able to see the rods and have a conversation.
 
I literally just upgraded from a b150 to a b175hw this week. The shakedown cruise indicates the 175 is far superior and I am pleased.

It's remarkable how much wider the field of view is and while my sea trial only entailed doing donuts out front of the cap, I also rubbed the drop-off off stanley park and the detail is great.

I think it's a great fit for our boat, and believe it's best because it just cost me $1,500 bucks so there's none better haha...
 
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I run two MFDs. 1 Raymarine with a regular chrip sonar and a Ti2 with a totalscan. I am going to upgrade to a 3in1 next time i pull the boat. I found running both at that same time helps me target fish better.

The chrip sonar on the raymarine I use as a standard echo sounder and I run sidescan/downview at the same time on my Ti2 to help me find the fish and filter out flotsam, debris, and bait from the fish I'm targeting.

So if you have both transducers I don't know why you would need a 2nd 3in1 transducer. I would recommend running one on each MFD.
 
Welcome to the podded Hourston club. I believe were out of the same marina if you owned that boat last year
JD will take good care of ya at Inna…Thruhulls are pretty pricey and only a 2 year warranty…
Make sure your transducer choice is compatible with your head unit , almost bought a dual chirp I found out I could only run a single. Currently running a standalone with a P 66. Does the job. Save your money for fuel. See ya out there!91E92574-2B25-4E0B-9361-6F90DD82E138.jpeg
 
The bigger windows and raised hardtop make the 23 look more like the 20 proportionally,looks great and way more functional.I'd be doing that if I was building a 23 Hourston.
 
For normal shallower water fishing the P66 is totally sufficient. Yes a 1 kw one has better imaging due to more power and yes a through hull one is nice as it gets cleaner water but since $$$ is tight stick with the P66 for now. It’s the best bang for your buck for Lowrance units IMHO.

I just bought 2 new Carbons for my boat and went with a P66 for salmon (under 100’) and a SS 175M for bottom fishing for Hali and lings. I was going to put in a SS60 rather than the P66 but I too cut the limit off and saved $400. Both have the identical specs In terms of actual performance and at low trolling speeds I am ok with a transom mount.

Many guides I know stick to the P66 as they work and are cheap.

just my 2 cents
 
I’m with Red on the best transducer for the buck Being the P66. In my last boat (clearly a case of overkill) I had BOTH a B175W thru-hull and the Furuno DFF3D triple-beam. Oh, and a 1Kw M260 in-hull. Meanwhile, the P66 tacked to my transom was day in and day out the bread and butter transducer..... though yes, there’s definitely the wow-factor going on in those big huge thru-hulls

In my current boat—- two P66’s and a GT51. (I’m not a Garmin guy ——former owner mounted the GT51). But it’s a good solid transducer, has CHIRP functionality, and costs 60% less then the B175W....works very well in tandem with the P66
 
as said go with theP66 and just get a TM 165 HW your then done the tm 165 is the same size as the p66 but has the 25* beam high wide angle and is 600 w if you look at some of the youtube vids there is not much difference to the 175-HW the Q will be higher spec on the 175 ......
 
as said go with theP66 and just get a TM 165 HW your then done the tm 165 is the same size as the p66 but has the 25* beam high wide angle and is 600 w if you look at some of the youtube vids there is not much difference to the 175-HW the Q will be higher spec on the 175 ......
The beamwidth of the TM165HW actually averages 30 degrees. Good advice!
 
I will admit drilling a hole in my hull scared me but NOW id do it again in a heart beat mines in where the engine used to be beside the stringers about 4 away and about 8 inchs from the fuel tank bulk head on starboard side. after countless ones out the back either broke or stopped working decided about 10 years ago to go to the tru hull type and was glad I did as its a game changer, i can see bottom all the time at all speeds where the transom mounts sometimes if not perfect are crappy that way.
good luck wolf
 
Anyone tried an "in-hull" transducer? its glued to the inside of the hull and shoots through the fiberglass. sounds like it could eliminate the noise problem at speed, but im wondering about the losses from shooting through the hull.
 
Thruhulls only get expensive if you go with the newest latest and greatest.which are really really nice, however it's not nessesary. Honestly you only need to see how deep the water is. Maybe in some instances the chirp, side imaging multi transducers will catch you more fish... maaaybe. I'd say your chart is more important. You can buy a 300 dollar airmar transducer that will never miss bottom, unless you drop off over 800ft, at that point who cares.
 
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