Charlie
Well-Known Member
To set or not to set? That is a question that usually draws some "always set" comments and answers? 
I think you will find anglers as a whole, usually opinionated on this subject. Normally, if you get around a group and want to get a good conversaton going, all you have to do is ask, “When and how do you set a hook on salmon?” Then set back and smile as you are listening to all the different answers. I have actually argued this on both sides, as there are times one wants to set while trolling, but not often!
In “most cases” the salmon will indeed “hook itself”, especially off a downrigger. Note the use “most cases”, there is always exceptions. If a salmon strikes your bait with 100 feet of line, popping your it off, and the fish is running… I assure you - the hook is set, at least - as good - as it will ever be. Now with that said even if your line is tight in “most cases”, a sharp and fast jerk on the rod won’t hurt and could ensure the hook is driven deeper in the jaw. Again, the use in “most cases”. If the hook is in soft tissue, with your line tight, you could pull the hook out by tearing the tissue resulting in losing the fish?
Remember, two things… “ALL BITES ARE NOT CREATED EQUAL” and “TIMING IS EVERYTHING”: There are many factors that intertwine; one must take into account, which elements are in place to dictate, “to set or not to set” If you are watching the end of your pole, at lot of times you will see a salmon “soft biting”"tapping" your bait. I will usually pop my line off, giving the fish some slack. Once it takes the bait… I set the hook! If you don’t chances are the fish will throw the hook? You must learn to “read” the bite in each different case, factoring in how you are fishing, where you are, what you are using, the type of fishing to decide to set the hook. You also need to remember or realize the different species of salmon strike differently making their bite differ. Then you also have the types of bites, especially within the Chinook family – some of them have “soft bite or mouthing”, some will “short bite”, and then you have the ones that will “rip” the pole out of your hands.
Now determine “HOW YOU ARE FISHING”: For example, drifting, a salmon will often just stop the bait. All you will likely feel is a hesitation, or perhaps a subtle tap-tap-tug. SET THE HOOK! Back trolling they will generally start as a jolting tap-tap followed by a solid pull on the rod. If you attempt to set the hook at this point, normally you will pull the bait away from the fish - nine times out of ten! You have to wait until the rod is completely down and stays down, then set the hook.
There are no universal procedures on how and when to set the hook, and if a one sets a standard formula that is being followed each and every time, they will ultimately compromise the success rate becoming the wrong part of "ten percent of the fisherman catch ninety percent of the fish." The right side of that saying are the continuously thinking fisherman, who considers all of factors involved
I do whole-heartedly agree, while trolling, the proper use of the “hook” is probably more important than setting the “hook”? Most that continually tell me “they” are losing fish… it is normally due to the HOOK! The number one most important change to make to keep the fish on the line and land the fish is good quality hooks. This may sound obvious but, some do not pay any attention. I look for 1X, 2X, 3X, and even 4X, if I can find them. They are the extra strong hooks. I also look for “factory” barbless yes, they ARE made different! A strong, sharp hook is a simple answer with immediate results to stop losing fish. I personally use ‘Owner’ hooks; however just look for the best “extra strong”” extra sharp” your favorite manufacture has to offer and always use the best hooks money can buy, and keep them super sharp. Sticky hooks drive deep and easier on the hook set. Bottom line, sharp hooks will increase your strike-to-hook-up ratio more than any other factor, including someone “setting the hook,” especially while trolling!
The other is - Set Your Drag: Correctly, reel drags are a close second reason for losing salmon. I always hear stories of the “big one” that got away. The line wasn’t strong enough it broke, the snap opened, or some other failure of the tackle? It is always the same story. I don’t think many know how to correctly set a drag? The correct amount of drag is measured in pounds. You divide the test weight of the line by four or 25% of the breaking test (line test). Once the drag is set and you keep your thumb off the spool, the drag will allow the fish to take all the stretch out of your line on the strike and you will hear the sweet sound of "ZZZZ!" That does translate - to the hook burying as deep as possible! And, I am hear to tell you – I don’t care if you are using 30 pound test, with a “heavy thumb,” even an average King can break it. I use 25-pound test, with approximately 6-7 pounds of drag. I can’t even remember the last time I have “broke” my main line and have landed several 40 plus salmon with it; however, I do admit a couple loses due to knot failures. To check the setting, just run the line through all the rod eyes as you normally would and connect the line to a spring scale (the thing people use to weigh their fish). Connect the other end of the scale to a fixed object, pull on the line with the rod bent over and adjust the reel drag to allow it to slip until the correct measurement is obtained on the scale. Where this may feel light, it will allow the fish be played without pulling the hook out of the fish or breaking any of the other tackle. Remember the rod should be playing the fish - nt the reel. Do not crank the drag up, this will only lead to a lost fish! To all with those who aren’t setting their drags properly and using that heavy line and tackle - think about this. If you have twenty pounds of salmon tearing line off the reel and you do decide to jerk and pull hard “to set that hook” something has to give, bend, break, open, or rip out of the fish! All, of which are not good things!
I personally do not (as a norm) set the hook, but what you will see me do, is immediately get the tip of the pole up and all the slack in! Slack does usually = lost fish, but if I "was" losing fish, which I seldom do... I would be looking back at those hooks? With the exception of Coho once in a while, I do not expect to lose any salmon to either "hooks" or "slack" line. Just maintaining the bend in the rod should take care of that?
Good Luck!
I think you will find anglers as a whole, usually opinionated on this subject. Normally, if you get around a group and want to get a good conversaton going, all you have to do is ask, “When and how do you set a hook on salmon?” Then set back and smile as you are listening to all the different answers. I have actually argued this on both sides, as there are times one wants to set while trolling, but not often!
In “most cases” the salmon will indeed “hook itself”, especially off a downrigger. Note the use “most cases”, there is always exceptions. If a salmon strikes your bait with 100 feet of line, popping your it off, and the fish is running… I assure you - the hook is set, at least - as good - as it will ever be. Now with that said even if your line is tight in “most cases”, a sharp and fast jerk on the rod won’t hurt and could ensure the hook is driven deeper in the jaw. Again, the use in “most cases”. If the hook is in soft tissue, with your line tight, you could pull the hook out by tearing the tissue resulting in losing the fish?
Remember, two things… “ALL BITES ARE NOT CREATED EQUAL” and “TIMING IS EVERYTHING”: There are many factors that intertwine; one must take into account, which elements are in place to dictate, “to set or not to set” If you are watching the end of your pole, at lot of times you will see a salmon “soft biting”"tapping" your bait. I will usually pop my line off, giving the fish some slack. Once it takes the bait… I set the hook! If you don’t chances are the fish will throw the hook? You must learn to “read” the bite in each different case, factoring in how you are fishing, where you are, what you are using, the type of fishing to decide to set the hook. You also need to remember or realize the different species of salmon strike differently making their bite differ. Then you also have the types of bites, especially within the Chinook family – some of them have “soft bite or mouthing”, some will “short bite”, and then you have the ones that will “rip” the pole out of your hands.
Now determine “HOW YOU ARE FISHING”: For example, drifting, a salmon will often just stop the bait. All you will likely feel is a hesitation, or perhaps a subtle tap-tap-tug. SET THE HOOK! Back trolling they will generally start as a jolting tap-tap followed by a solid pull on the rod. If you attempt to set the hook at this point, normally you will pull the bait away from the fish - nine times out of ten! You have to wait until the rod is completely down and stays down, then set the hook.
There are no universal procedures on how and when to set the hook, and if a one sets a standard formula that is being followed each and every time, they will ultimately compromise the success rate becoming the wrong part of "ten percent of the fisherman catch ninety percent of the fish." The right side of that saying are the continuously thinking fisherman, who considers all of factors involved
I do whole-heartedly agree, while trolling, the proper use of the “hook” is probably more important than setting the “hook”? Most that continually tell me “they” are losing fish… it is normally due to the HOOK! The number one most important change to make to keep the fish on the line and land the fish is good quality hooks. This may sound obvious but, some do not pay any attention. I look for 1X, 2X, 3X, and even 4X, if I can find them. They are the extra strong hooks. I also look for “factory” barbless yes, they ARE made different! A strong, sharp hook is a simple answer with immediate results to stop losing fish. I personally use ‘Owner’ hooks; however just look for the best “extra strong”” extra sharp” your favorite manufacture has to offer and always use the best hooks money can buy, and keep them super sharp. Sticky hooks drive deep and easier on the hook set. Bottom line, sharp hooks will increase your strike-to-hook-up ratio more than any other factor, including someone “setting the hook,” especially while trolling!
The other is - Set Your Drag: Correctly, reel drags are a close second reason for losing salmon. I always hear stories of the “big one” that got away. The line wasn’t strong enough it broke, the snap opened, or some other failure of the tackle? It is always the same story. I don’t think many know how to correctly set a drag? The correct amount of drag is measured in pounds. You divide the test weight of the line by four or 25% of the breaking test (line test). Once the drag is set and you keep your thumb off the spool, the drag will allow the fish to take all the stretch out of your line on the strike and you will hear the sweet sound of "ZZZZ!" That does translate - to the hook burying as deep as possible! And, I am hear to tell you – I don’t care if you are using 30 pound test, with a “heavy thumb,” even an average King can break it. I use 25-pound test, with approximately 6-7 pounds of drag. I can’t even remember the last time I have “broke” my main line and have landed several 40 plus salmon with it; however, I do admit a couple loses due to knot failures. To check the setting, just run the line through all the rod eyes as you normally would and connect the line to a spring scale (the thing people use to weigh their fish). Connect the other end of the scale to a fixed object, pull on the line with the rod bent over and adjust the reel drag to allow it to slip until the correct measurement is obtained on the scale. Where this may feel light, it will allow the fish be played without pulling the hook out of the fish or breaking any of the other tackle. Remember the rod should be playing the fish - nt the reel. Do not crank the drag up, this will only lead to a lost fish! To all with those who aren’t setting their drags properly and using that heavy line and tackle - think about this. If you have twenty pounds of salmon tearing line off the reel and you do decide to jerk and pull hard “to set that hook” something has to give, bend, break, open, or rip out of the fish! All, of which are not good things!
I personally do not (as a norm) set the hook, but what you will see me do, is immediately get the tip of the pole up and all the slack in! Slack does usually = lost fish, but if I "was" losing fish, which I seldom do... I would be looking back at those hooks? With the exception of Coho once in a while, I do not expect to lose any salmon to either "hooks" or "slack" line. Just maintaining the bend in the rod should take care of that?
Good Luck!
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