sly_karma
Crew Member
There's only so much testing/troubleshooting/tuning you can do with a motor running on earmuffs. There's no exhaust back pressure so settings you make on the muffs aren't always right when the boat goes in the water. Municipal water pressure is force feeding the water pump and can hide a pump that is weak or near failure. Discussion in another thread about water barrels and other containers made me think about getting a good setup figured out so I can work inside this fall/winter instead of towing the boat outside my shop every time I want to test something.
Midsize and larger outboards have too large a gearcase for something easy like a garbage can or rubbermaid container. Even if you can find something that just fits, lots of water slops out due to exhaust pressure and you're quickly needing a top up.
I saw this online today: a poly tank made for livestock watering. 36" L x 24" W x 24" D. That will accommodate the XL leg of my etec 130. There's already a drain plug in place, would be easy to thread in a shutoff valve connected to a hose so the water drains outside. At 36" long it might even be possible to tilt the motor in and out of the tank. Stock and feed dealers should be able to get it.
Midsize and larger outboards have too large a gearcase for something easy like a garbage can or rubbermaid container. Even if you can find something that just fits, lots of water slops out due to exhaust pressure and you're quickly needing a top up.
I saw this online today: a poly tank made for livestock watering. 36" L x 24" W x 24" D. That will accommodate the XL leg of my etec 130. There's already a drain plug in place, would be easy to thread in a shutoff valve connected to a hose so the water drains outside. At 36" long it might even be possible to tilt the motor in and out of the tank. Stock and feed dealers should be able to get it.
