Surge brake lock out

MikePA

Well-Known Member
Is there a way to lock out the actuator in the coupler so that it doesn't slide back and forth. I removed my disc brakes and it still slides back and forth which makes the stopping and starting a bit rougher than it could be. Or should I just buy a new coupler?20230528_094413.jpg
 
Didn't replace them. They corrode so quickly. Boat is around 3500 I'd think. Not required until 6000lbs.
where did you read that? i read different but i hope your right. im in the exact same situation as you. annoying surge with garbage brakes. DE 185.
 
but then there’s this which adds to the confusion
 

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Hey guys, surge brakes for anything over 3086 lbs -also, if your over 6128lbs it needs to be electric over hydraulic ( controlled by the driver through a brake controller).

Nobody is running around checking but If you were ever in an accident you could be liable through ICBC when they check out your trailer and find that you have disabled the brakes. Lots of guys do it, but also there are tons of guys driving around overweight with campers etc.....comes down to how you feel about breaking the law and what your willing to live with I guess? If your using drum brakes I highly recommend upgrading to disk, they will all rust out - some faster tha others - drum brakes in my experience seize over thr winter with minimal use where as disk scrape off and reveal fresh metal - easier to work on and inspect.

To answer your original question, you can buy a half moon piece that blocks the cylinder from pushing back as ( see zuktayler above)
 
Hey guys, surge brakes for anything over 3086 lbs -also, if your over 6128lbs it needs to be electric over hydraulic ( controlled by the driver through a brake controller).

Nobody is running around checking but If you were ever in an accident you could be liable through ICBC when they check out your trailer and find that you have disabled the brakes. Lots of guys do it, but also there are tons of guys driving around overweight with campers etc.....comes down to how you feel about breaking the law and what your willing to live with I guess? If your using drum brakes I highly recommend upgrading to disk, they will all rust out - some faster tha others - drum brakes in my experience seize over thr winter with minimal use where as disk scrape off and reveal fresh metal - easier to work on and inspect.

To answer your original question, you can buy a half moon piece that blocks the cylinder from pushing back as ( see zuktayler above)
thanks for this. i was actually putting together a pile of parts then i checked out my surge actuator a little closer and realized the reservoir tank was full of rusty water. the likelihood of it working now is slim to none. i took all the parts back until i could strip it and deal properly . dont have the. $$$ at the moment.
 
it’s also worth noting that fuel is heavy. a gallon of liquid is approx 8.34 pounds so your fuel needs to be factored in to trailer weight.
when loaded i’m hauling 420 pounds of fuel on my DE 185. boats 1800 pounds. motor is 400.

she adds up quick
 
Hey guys, surge brakes for anything over 3086 lbs -also, if your over 6128lbs it needs to be electric over hydraulic ( controlled by the driver through a brake controller).

Nobody is running around checking but If you were ever in an accident you could be liable through ICBC when they check out your trailer and find that you have disabled the brakes. Lots of guys do it, but also there are tons of guys driving around overweight with campers etc.....comes down to how you feel about breaking the law and what your willing to live with I guess? If your using drum brakes I highly recommend upgrading to disk, they will all rust out - some faster tha others - drum brakes in my experience seize over thr winter with minimal use where as disk scrape off and reveal fresh metal - easier to work on and inspect.

To answer your original question, you can buy a half moon piece that blocks the cylinder from pushing back as ( see zuktayler above)
Good point on the ICBC thing. being a former insurance contractor i can tell you the companies will do anything in their power to have to pay out.

it’s also worth noting my neighbour stripped all his EOH brakes with oil bath hubs etc off his tandem axle trailer and converted to full titan hydraulic disc brakes. within two years the entire system has to be pulled apart and redone. all the races, bearings etc are perfect but the calipers have to be completely rebuilt.

salt water esta no bueno
 
Good point on the ICBC thing. being a former insurance contractor i can tell you the companies will do anything in their power to have to pay out.

it’s also worth noting my neighbour stripped all his EOH brakes with oil bath hubs etc off his tandem axle trailer and converted to full titan hydraulic disc brakes. within two years the entire system has to be pulled apart and redone. all the races, bearings etc are perfect but the calipers have to be completely rebuilt.

salt water esta no bueno
one reason i go strait electric, no expensive parts, i do get the marine backing plates. no bleeding or messing around with serge hitches
 
one reason i go strait electric, no expensive parts, i do get the marine backing plates. no bleeding or messing around with serge hitches
Please elaborate on your electric setup (assuming stoping force is adjustable on the forward controller in the cab...)

I wouldn't be sad to have a cheaper alternative to the 6-8k full rebuild of eoh system.
 
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