Siwash Hook Crimping

Here are a few tips, no matter what brand of hook:

Use pliers that have serrations that hold well.
Better yet, use pliers with parallel action.
Even better are pliers with a groove, that helps to prevent hooks from slipping out.

I have a pair of Sargent compound action parallel pliers that are older than me, inherited from Dad. This style is still made, but make sure the hinge is open, so long wire can be held by putting it through the hinge. Like this pair:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/364511458679?_skw=sargent+pliers&itmmeta=01KCD828D3N8KR6AV8X50G8TJ0&hash=item54de937577:g:TxIAAOSwvwFlHDau&itmprp=enc:AQAKAAAA8IUNi59bckQcV2ImusJGAkGqZfEFsIqMU2YbLhm7BKS1rEUi3u8vj6GrbhPZdm8BRYWiR4YhvUiAsHfNLG5G6vjidgrNIHbIAmKvWm4rPRgvvNWmO39XS+lRm2FENa86Tzl3Jp+gOpPSz+OD6BNaWVjWe0luW06xhS2gi4fAlhBHCpBCKIS0zFKC2rm2yTZh8RIEshcM4l91DEsVPDynoOl0uO3ZLqNLVC8FB+OqW8forA5gb2Hy1KpK2g9BuFfodfdfTTJMDEsCRUerlhXFzC4am8GdIu24/ltueHwva8HWuZMBDzv7GxHJLx4ICssP9A==|tkp:Bk9SR9KGiajjZg

As for technique, make one, slow squeeze, then stop. Do not give it an extra squeeze, "to make sure it's tight", or try to bend a crooked set back straight. Each time you move metal, it becomes more brittle and weaker. That's called "work hardening". Think of a nail sticking out of wood, that you bend back and forth several times, and then it breaks.
 
Here are a few tips, no matter what brand of hook:

Use pliers that have serrations that hold well.
Better yet, use pliers with parallel action.
Even better are pliers with a groove, that helps to prevent hooks from slipping out.

I have a pair of Sargent compound action parallel pliers that are older than me, inherited from Dad. This style is still made, but make sure the hinge is open, so long wire can be held by putting it through the hinge. Like this pair:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/364511458679?_skw=sargent+pliers&itmmeta=01KCD828D3N8KR6AV8X50G8TJ0&hash=item54de937577:g:TxIAAOSwvwFlHDau&itmprp=enc:AQAKAAAA8IUNi59bckQcV2ImusJGAkGqZfEFsIqMU2YbLhm7BKS1rEUi3u8vj6GrbhPZdm8BRYWiR4YhvUiAsHfNLG5G6vjidgrNIHbIAmKvWm4rPRgvvNWmO39XS+lRm2FENa86Tzl3Jp+gOpPSz+OD6BNaWVjWe0luW06xhS2gi4fAlhBHCpBCKIS0zFKC2rm2yTZh8RIEshcM4l91DEsVPDynoOl0uO3ZLqNLVC8FB+OqW8forA5gb2Hy1KpK2g9BuFfodfdfTTJMDEsCRUerlhXFzC4am8GdIu24/ltueHwva8HWuZMBDzv7GxHJLx4ICssP9A==|tkp:Bk9SR9KGiajjZg

As for technique, make one, slow squeeze, then stop. Do not give it an extra squeeze, "to make sure it's tight", or try to bend a crooked set back straight. Each time you move metal, it becomes more brittle and weaker. That's called "work hardening". Think of a nail sticking out of wood, that you bend back and forth several times, and then it breaks.
That second squeeze is an addiction though.
 
These work great. Put the eye in the groves for crimping. Behind the last grove but before the cutter is a flat spot for pinching barbs. Nice all around plier for the boat.
IMG_0357.png
 
That second squeeze is an addiction though.

I find it takes two squeezes to get the end of the wire at the eye tight enough to the shaft to satisfy my OCD.
I squeeze once across the eye with the jaws parallel to the shaft then once more at about a 45° angle to push the end up closer to the shaft. I’ve only ever had a hook break at the eye when twisting it to change out the hook.
 
Back
Top