Jack plates?

Will be rigging a boat with a 20” transom.
I would like to run the standard 25” motor(df140)
Anybody have experience with Jack plates?
Pro/con? Best place to buy?

Thanks
 
Looked into it ages ago, and I think the Bob's Machine Shop jack plates are generally well regarded.

Since you are just looking for 5" of lift, I'd go with a manual jack plate - the hydraulics aren't going to provide you much benefit. Depending on the type of boat, I'd talk to an aluminum shop and see if they can make you a fixed 5" mount.


Just be careful that the mount to your transom is well reinforced. Archimedes: "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world".

In this case, the force transferred from the motor to the hull gets an extra 5" of leverage.

 
Agree with the above. I put a 25" motor on a 20" transom using a manual 6" x 5" jack plate from Bob's Machine Shop. It does the job, but the extra leverage on the transom isn't desirable. I use a transom saver when towing, but still there is faint crazing in the transom gelcoat below the jack plate. On the plus side, moving the main 6" aft has much improved the tie bar connection between main and kicker.
 
Agree with the above. I put a 25" motor on a 20" transom using a manual 6" x 5" jack plate from Bob's Machine Shop. It does the job, but the extra leverage on the transom isn't desirable. I use a transom saver when towing, but still there is faint crazing in the transom gelcoat below the jack plate. On the plus side, moving the main 6" aft has much improved the tie bar connection between main and kicker.
One thing I like about an etec is that it has a built-in bracket to support the motor when towing. Its not a little tab - its a beefy fold down bracket that holds the engine at about 1/2 tilt position and takes all load off the hydraulics. No point in towing with the motor all the way up - it sticks out further, and there is more force on the transom - keep it as low as you are comfortable with. Most kickers state explicitly that you should tow with them in the down position.
 
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I got this one sitting in my shop, will be installing it this winter, replacing a fixed 5” jack plate on a pod, not sure how it’s going to work out, having the option of raising the engine up and down at will and adjusting with conditions is interesting
 

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One thing I like about an etec is that it has a built-in bracket to support the motor when towing. Its not a little tab - its a beefy fold down bracket that holds the engine at about 1/2 tilt position and takes all load off the hydraulics. No point in towing with the motor all the way up - it sticks out further, and there is more force on the transom - keep it as low as you are comfortable with. Most kickers state explicitly that you should tow with them in the down position.
I take your point about removing load from hydraulics, but the increased torque on my transom caused by the jack plate is a separate issue. Transom saver helps to minimise flex, and it sits my motor at a lower tilt angle as well. Kicker is vertical and strapped so it can't move while towing.
 
I’m doing hydraulic so I can maximize my efficiency and minimize drag from the lower. Other times, when there’s a big following sea, I may want to lower the motors and trim them considerably to really raise my bow. Plus, being able to ensure the lower unit is fully out of the water when moored is always nice.
 
I picked up a selenoid from @cpony yesterdayand he has a hydro jack plate on his boat , discussed it a bit with him but not in great detail, maybe he can chime in
 
image.jpgI used a Hi-Jacker fixed jack plate when hanging a 25" motor on a 20" transom . I had no need for adjustment. They are a couple hundred bucks at WEST Marine . I made another set myself out of 4”x4”x1/4” box aluminum when I switched to twin 115’s image.jpgimage.jpg
 
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