TenMile
Well-Known Member
Took on a project this fall for my spare time. In-laws have a '70s vintage Hurston runabout up at the Lake that was purchased second-hand many years ago. Rod Tipton takes great care of the engine and makes sure its tuned and properly winterized each year. However, over the many years the hull has had the snot beat out of it, rubbing the dock mainly. At some point, someone repainted the hull -- looked to be with house paint or Tremclad -- it didn't stick. This summer while waxing it, all the paint peeled off and I finally decided to do this job right.
Here are some photos of the progress, the approach I took and list of materials I used.
Step 1 - removal of all fittings: The boat is 30+ years old from what I can tell and as such, the fittings were all but welded on from rust and corrosion. I borrowed a high speed zip-saw/grinder and basically cut away all the fittings that would not come off via a wrench. Biggest job was removing the old aluminum rub rail -- it had pitted and corroded so badly it was not worth saving. That job basically took 2 afternoons.
Step 2 - Sanding: The exterior finish was in rough shape. I took a random orbital sander with 60 grit paper and removed the exterior finish right down to the glass in most cases. Used a mask/goggles and did this job outdoors as the dust gets everywhere and I can't imagine it's good to breathe in.
Step 3 - Filling: Lots of screw holes everywhere -- on the gunnels, and for some reason even in the hull just above the waterline. Used an Epoxy putty and smoothed the holes out as best I could. Sanded everything again with #60, then #120.
Step 4 - Priming: Because I took the finish right down to the fiberglass, I also used the Interlux Epoxy Primer as a base coat to ensure that the topcoat would stick properly. This product is also best applied with a foam roller rather than a brush. I did 2 coats of primer and sanded between with 120 grit paper. After priming was finished, I then sanded with a #220 grit paper, washed the boat with water and cleaned with Interlux solvent to remove all residual.
Step 5: For Paint, I chose Interlux Perfection. It's a 2-part Epoxy paint that is applied with a foam roller and then "tipped off" with a brush. It really gives a sprayed on look, and looks like it has a clear coat applied to it as the finish is high gloss. There is a great "how to" video on the Interlux website. I applied 2 coats of Perfection and did this in my garage with the doors all open (it really off-gassed and stinks bad). No need to sand between coats provided that you follow the time guideline on the can.
Step 6 (I am at this step now): Re-install fittings (boaters-exchange was great for a bunch of used stuff in better shape than what I had). Trying to locate a new rub rail and windshield (the existing one is cracked and scratched -- will work if I can't get something better).
Here is the link of photos so far. Total cost to date has been $250 for paint/primer/solvent and about $50 for fittings. Replaced the "Delco" '70s vintage stereo that didn't work for $70 (see my other link on Jensen Marine discount) Rub rail and windshield still to come. Estimate will be $5-600 when done.
Pictures are up to Step 4 thus far -- will post more this weekend.
http://picasaweb.google.com/terry.pettigrew/HurstonRestoration?authkey=Gv1sRgCM-FoaPozMe5jQE#
Here are some photos of the progress, the approach I took and list of materials I used.
Step 1 - removal of all fittings: The boat is 30+ years old from what I can tell and as such, the fittings were all but welded on from rust and corrosion. I borrowed a high speed zip-saw/grinder and basically cut away all the fittings that would not come off via a wrench. Biggest job was removing the old aluminum rub rail -- it had pitted and corroded so badly it was not worth saving. That job basically took 2 afternoons.
Step 2 - Sanding: The exterior finish was in rough shape. I took a random orbital sander with 60 grit paper and removed the exterior finish right down to the glass in most cases. Used a mask/goggles and did this job outdoors as the dust gets everywhere and I can't imagine it's good to breathe in.
Step 3 - Filling: Lots of screw holes everywhere -- on the gunnels, and for some reason even in the hull just above the waterline. Used an Epoxy putty and smoothed the holes out as best I could. Sanded everything again with #60, then #120.
Step 4 - Priming: Because I took the finish right down to the fiberglass, I also used the Interlux Epoxy Primer as a base coat to ensure that the topcoat would stick properly. This product is also best applied with a foam roller rather than a brush. I did 2 coats of primer and sanded between with 120 grit paper. After priming was finished, I then sanded with a #220 grit paper, washed the boat with water and cleaned with Interlux solvent to remove all residual.
Step 5: For Paint, I chose Interlux Perfection. It's a 2-part Epoxy paint that is applied with a foam roller and then "tipped off" with a brush. It really gives a sprayed on look, and looks like it has a clear coat applied to it as the finish is high gloss. There is a great "how to" video on the Interlux website. I applied 2 coats of Perfection and did this in my garage with the doors all open (it really off-gassed and stinks bad). No need to sand between coats provided that you follow the time guideline on the can.
Step 6 (I am at this step now): Re-install fittings (boaters-exchange was great for a bunch of used stuff in better shape than what I had). Trying to locate a new rub rail and windshield (the existing one is cracked and scratched -- will work if I can't get something better).
Here is the link of photos so far. Total cost to date has been $250 for paint/primer/solvent and about $50 for fittings. Replaced the "Delco" '70s vintage stereo that didn't work for $70 (see my other link on Jensen Marine discount) Rub rail and windshield still to come. Estimate will be $5-600 when done.
Pictures are up to Step 4 thus far -- will post more this weekend.
http://picasaweb.google.com/terry.pettigrew/HurstonRestoration?authkey=Gv1sRgCM-FoaPozMe5jQE#
