Thanks Tightlines. I trolled commercially for years and my boats were meticulously bonded throughout. Bonding is basically a nice heavy, low resistance, copper wire from end of the boat to the other and everything is connected to it including electronics, keel coolers, radio ground plates, engine, fuel tanks, metal hydraulic steering pipes, rudder, prop shaft etc. The amount of metals with the right zincs would give you a corresponding field around your boat. This is essentially the same thing I am doing with my Downrigger Electric Field Generators (DEFG or portable black box) as well as my trolling spoon and hoochies. The stainless tube end of the DEFG represents the boat and the other end is the anode or sacrificial metal designed to protect the more 'proud' stainless metal. The anode corrodes just like the zincs on your boat while protecting. A by-product of this corrosion cell is electricity. It is just a matter of selecting the right 2 metals from the galvanic scale to arrive at the right voltage. Your f/g boat of course is much simpler and the only metal in the water is probably your outboard. Just make sure that your connection is good and you have electrical continuity from the underwater zincs through to the bonding wire. Use an ohm meter, and the engine does not have to be in the water to test this. Connect the bonding wire with something like a caribiner or shackle which contacts the trolling wire above water. Many fishers are very adamant about how much voltage to use to the 1/10th of a volt. With all my years experience, I cannot remember ever going to my black box and 'dialing up fish'. I feel that as long as you are within the range, your success will not suffer greatly. I do have 2 models of DEFG's one for springs .5 to .6 volts and another for sockeye .75 to .85 volts. During my test fishing for springs last summer I started aiming for lure voltages .5 to .6 but had minimal success using identical lures, one tuned and one plain. It wasn't until my voltage got to the .8 volt range when I could see it working. I believe it is a strength of field (amperage) condition generated by long trolling wires, compared to the voltage coming off a small hook. Regardless, the fish told me what they wanted. Over a 5 day test period I had 10 out of 13 springs take the 'tuned' lures (spoons, plugs, hoochies) and I could not find the high end where I spooked them away. I was over 1 volt of hook voltage at times and they still took that one. My spoon cards say .65 volts, but that is only for those who are closed minded about voltages. My sockeye hoochies are around 1.0 volt. The DEFG's are lower than the corresponding lures as I want the fish to come to the area but not be more attracted to the DEFG than the lures. Let me know if you have more questions or want instructions on how to test the wire voltage when using the bonding wire.