Hourston with engine cutout transom...

EZZ70

Well-Known Member
Hey all, I kinda mentioned this briefly but did not go into detail...

Just debating the cut away transom to mount the 300 Yami.

My searching, looking, asking, shopping, debating and planning is getting to be a bit much on the head. Knowing if I don’t get it right the first time it will be finically disastrous as I can't afford a No2.

Apart from taking away a bit of space from the back deck and possibly receiving water over the cutout, what else is there?

I have no question on the strength of the stern after 2” of plywood and 8 layers of glass to tie it all into the sides.

I really don’t care about taking away a bit of the fish floor as I’m a “die hard”. Does a POD really improve the boats ride by a value of 3k?

Also my time to design and form some kinda of functioning transom well for the engine is a wash and materials maybe 500 bucks...

Anyone have any Comments regarding this is foolish talk...?
 
Put a pod on you will be much happier. Just have someone build one that knows what they are doing. Not rocket science. looked at 21 mana to once that they cut the transom for an outboard. Ruined the hull
I have a 20 hourston with a pod and a mercury verado 635 pounds. Boat sits perfect in the water once the engine was mounted I floated the boat and had to put my batteries under the drivers seat to get it to float level.
 
POD is the only way to go IMO, plus for resale the buyers will almost always choose a well podded boat versus the transom mounted. Alot of weight hanging on the butt end of the boat and for the extra 3k I would just do it, your already into it nows the time bud!
 
A well designed pod can improve the ride and handling of your boat, especially if it has positive flotation and is the width of the boat and it is in flush with the keel. You also have a platform to land fish, board the boat and work on your motors if need be - not to mention more useable cockpit space to land fish and handle traps, etc. Your boat also will be much safer and drier when in rough water with a following sea. Going with a cut out is a poor alternative to be avoided if possible IMO.
 
I second that the pod is the only way to go. If you cut into the transom, you will undoubtably be disappointed and take a real chance of ruining the hull. I know the cost of the pod is trying to sway your judgment but you will be way farther ahead and happier when it’s done right.

Oly
 
Like yourself, I have recently faced the same decision making that you are struggling with, and know how it can fry your brain. I am currently in the midst of the conversion from I/O to OB and decided to pod after spending this Summer tap dancing around the engine box which got old real quick. I think each hull needs to be considered individually as to the design of the pod. After talking to a variety of builders and manufacturers it appears that there are two options. If the boat is shorter it may benefit from a full pod that continues the existing bottom which will add more flotation and planing surface . If a longer hull it may not need the flotation and extra planing surface and the other option is a stepped pod that also angles up towards the mounting plate. The object in both designs is to get a smooth flow of water to the prop of the engine. Apparently the worst design is to start at the bottom of the hull and angle up which creates drag and turbulence when trying to get on plane. With my 27 Orca I am going with the stepped version as I have adequate planing surface and should be losing about 400 lbs of weight between the Volvo 7.4 and leg and the new Zuke 350. Greater minds have suggested the the boat should ride about an inch higher. I guess we will find out. Don't take this as gospel, just what conclusion I came to after similar brain strain. Good luck.
 
I would call cutting the transom instead of installing a pod pennywise, pound foolish.

The pod itself is unlikely to be a large fraction of the cost of the conversion to outboard. And the work involved in gutting and rebuilding the cockpit sole and altering the beam structure to support the new power is all practically the same. So in order to save maybe a 10% of the total outlay (assuming used motor and you do all the glass and wood) you run the risk of wrecking the hull, and you take a chainsaw to your resale value. A well documented pod job on a 23 Hourston and you could have a very resaleable boat.

A hacked up transom and no pod is going to be tough to move IMO. You may not plan to sell, but a small increase in the budget gives you the option.
 
well, thank you kindly to all, you guys have made sense to the nonsense foolish thoughts, lol
 
I agree, thank you sir!
 
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