Help with snapped downrigger cables!

[chiroken]

Looking for advise please. I purchased 2 brand new scotty 1101's 2 summers ago. Assembled and fished that summer 3 times using 10lb cannons. Fresh water rinsed after each use. Stored indoors in my home. Bought 2 brand new 15lb cannons Friday for deep water fishing (180-200ft). A couple of days ago was the 4th use ever of the scotty's and bringing the 15lb cannon up the first time on 1 side the cable snapped as soon as the scotty disengaged on auto up (once the cannon reached the surface (or just about to the surface). Broke right at the unit. Cannon and release clip gone. Brought the other scotty up to check the gear and as I was lowering it the 2nd time the cable snapped on the way down at 45 ft. on the counter. Cannon, release clip and 45ft of cable gone.

I've fished friends' scotty's many times with this never happening before. Is there such a thing as bad wire? I'm out over $100 in lost gear. Any ideas? Suggestions on follow up with Scotty? Their manual doesn't not have a max weight to be used as cannons and most boats our there are fishing 12's ro 15's.

For those fishing 15's, how do you rig them? I know many will say go braided but I don't feel I should be replacing near new wire. For these heavier cannons, how do you attach main line to cannon? I'm reading some use swivels instead of stopper beads, the blue snubbers etc. I had the wire attached directly woven through the black scotty fin, then clipped on the 15lb finned cannon balls.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Fish Assassin]

Back in the day when using SS cable I replaced it yearly cause the stuff breaks down, frays etc.... I changed to baided and no longer have issues.

I have not used a 12# ball in my boat ever. I have always gone heavier.

Think about this..... Do you really think 3 pounds extra is the cause of your cable breaking.

 

[salmonkiller01]

Not to hijack this thread but I am also having issues with breakage on my scotty's, for the braided line is power pro 200lb the equivalent to scottys braided line? FA what brand of braid do you recommend?

 

[Sea Ranger]

chiroken, Yes you would expect new wire to last a lot longer then yours did and in many cases it will last longer. The most likely place for the cable to break is right where the crimps are. No matter how well you rinse your gear there will always be some small amount of salt left behind to hasten the rusting and wear to your cable and it seems to always happen at the crimps. When a line breaks mid way for no apparent reason I suspect there may have been a small break in the cable that went unnoticed or a kink managed to form which is real hard on cable. (braid will never kink) As for returning the cable as faulty, I don't think the store is going to take responsibility. Replace your cable wire with new cable or go to braid. When I bought my new downriggers I relaced the wire on it after the first season and the wire I put on has lasted 3 seasons but it is showing signs of wear now so I will be replacing mine soon too.

 

[Fish Assassin]

I have used at least 4 different types of braided on riggers. 175-250#'s and have ever had an issue with any of it. I know people ***** about the Scotty 250# being to thick, but if I was to replace the braided on my riggers today thats would I would go back to. I bought 175# and I can't tell the difference even 200+ feet down. But the 175# I am using now I am tired of cutting my hands with it. Should just remove my prop gaurd for a week then I'd need to by new lines...

 

[salmonkiller01]

Thank FA, going tyo try the braided line.

 

[Seafever]

Chiroken.....if you are using wire:-

don't bother with those threaded plastic fin rigs.

Most 12's and 15lb balls come with a fin on them already.

Just get the plastic black clips that snap on to the ball. (i've used mine for 20 years and never lost a ball off them).

BUT:- to attatch wire to black clip..............get the EYELETS......use the brass cylinder fittings that crimp on the line.
The thin black crimps and the thin brass crimps are too weak.
Thread wire around eyelet....put 2 brass cylinder crimps on and leave about 4 inches of extra wire hanging out the end.

Pull the first cylinder up tight to the eyelet...BUT....not overly tight. You want an eensy bit of play there but not enough to pop it off the eyelet.
Crimp it.
Pull second cylinder up about 3/4 of an inch behind the first one.
Crimp it.
Now tie a single loop knot in the extra wire you have (just on the line by itself)and try to get it close to crimp.

This way if the crimps let go and your line slides....the knot will stop it from sliding further.

Make sure there is a good heavy duty swivel between the ball and your wire (this should be part and parcel of the black snap-on clips you use).

 

[Cuba Libre]

250 lb Scotty braid-- third season, and no problems. I will be switching end for end after this season and expect to get another 2 years. Max I ever got from stainless was 2 years before jaggers started to destroy my hands.. Never again

 

[Englishman]

You should be fine with brand new downriggers. Don't do what I did and switch to braid after long time wire use. There is a discussion thread on here about this but basically those pulley wheels and the pulley mounts get scratched and abraded by the wire. Result .....rough spots! Result of that is severe abrasion on the braid, so like you I lost a lot of gear through random snapping of 1 year old braid.

 

[chiroken]

Thanks for all the advise. Sounds like I'd be a fool to re-rig the wire I have and go back out. Probably end up polluting the bottom with more cannons . Either replace with wire or go braided. Thanks for the detailed hook-up advise Seafever. Can someone give me their best way to hook-up braided if I go that route?

 

[lorneparker1]

You should be fine with brand new downriggers. Don't do what I did and switch to braid after long time wire use. There is a discussion thread on here about this but basically those pulley wheels and the pulley mounts get scratched and abraded by the wire. Result .....rough spots! Result of that is severe abrasion on the braid, so like you I lost a lot of gear through random snapping of 1 year old braid.

THey recommend replacing the pulleys when switching to braid if you have used wire in the past

I know im super helpful hahaha

Lorne

 

[lorneparker1]

Thanks for all the advise. Sounds like I'd be a fool to re-rig the wire I have and go back out. Probably end up polluting the bottom with more cannons . Either replace with wire or go braided. Thanks for the detailed hook-up advise Seafever. Can someone give me their best way to hook-up braided if I go that route?

Spin it on the same way you would the wire ( or get a local fishing store to do it) and put a snubber and use a polamar to tie on your DR ball clip. Another tip is use Multiple Red stoppers as they tend to fall off and the last thing you want is one to fall off and your buddy is not paying attention and it doesnt auto stop, resulting in the same as you have previously encountered(so Ive heard )

 

[chiroken]

THey recommend replacing the pulleys when switching to braid if you have used wire in the past
Lorne

I will pay close attention to the pulleys, didn't think of that. Hopefully there will not be burrs or gouges as these units have had cannonballs up/down on them literally 10 times.

 

[lorneparker1]

I will pay close attention to the pulleys, didn't think of that. Hopefully there will not be burrs or gouges as these units have had cannonballs up/down on them literally 10 times.

I wouldnt worry about it if they are new, but takinga close look wouldnt hurt. I think i read that felix(fogducker) didnt replace his pulleys either when he switched and didnt have any problems and id be willing to bet he used them a bit more then 10 times prioir lol.

 

[wolf]

BIGGEST thing is to crimp wire with proper crimps pliers as thats what makes it hold using side cutters or normal pliers damages the wire me personally havent broken a ball of in about 5 years like Someone said use a GOOD swival on it (i replace my wire every 2nd years if it needs it or not) the amout O use i get small comapred to other things ..(BRAID sucks)

 

[sudsy]

I bought 2 brand new downriggers this year when i bought my boat....first thing i did was peel all the brand new line out, threw it in the garbage and bought some 200lb braid.....i got the braid from westshore sportfishing by boston pizza in langfor...they sell it in bulk on the spool.19 cents per yard (3 feet) got him to spool out 200 yards, marking it at 100 yards...so now im running around 300 feet on both riggers, havent snapped a cannon ball yet ( knock on wood) plus i dont have to worry about electrolosyis...too me there is no other way than braid!!!

 

[wolf]

UUUMMM thats not electrolosyis thats current voltage HUGE difference....

 

[Lipripper]

UUUMMM thats not electrolosyis thats current voltage HUGE difference....

Shhhhhhhhhhhhh...

 

[sudsy]

sorry wolf, i definelty dont want to start an arguement as im definelty not an expert on this, but from what i understand electrolysis can cause your boat to either give off positive or negative voltage....its not the only factor, but definetly one to consider...either way, swtiching to braided line you dont have to worry about it because braided line is not a conductor....curious to know what current voltage is though..

 

[Seafever]

Officially it's known as "galvanic reaction"

Two dissimilar metals of any kind in salt water will produce a galvanic reaction...with the resultant voltage of some degree

Only takes a moment to check pulleys for worn-in grooves from wire

Just sand/smooth them out with fine sandpaper if you noticed any

If you are using the 150lb braid......run about a 30ft leader-end of the thicker 200lb braid

You need the red stopper beads for braid .......but they hold position much better on the thicker braid than the thin braid

On the thicker 200lb or 250 leader you can tie stopper knots in the braid about 4 or 5 inches apart...and then put your red stopper clips inside these

Works for me