Help With Replacement Tansducer

[Rain City]

Hey guys, I currently have this transducer and I'm not loving it. I'll eventually replace my Simrad 9" with a 12" something. Can I just swap out this transducer and keep the housing that's there? Or is this a job and a half? I'm going to be on the hard for the next few days so thought I check now. I just want to future proof it.

https://www.airmar.com/Product/B117

 

[Rain City]

I'm already starting to realize through some quick research that this might be a hole expansion project. Next question, who can do that for me that isn't as incompetent as the recent work I've witnessed from our local disasters. I'll be at Lions Gate Marina for as long as this takes.

 

[turbomack]

Just draw the new diameter on the hull grab your die grinder and let her eat. Bed it in with a little 5200 or similar, if there is coring material at the location resin coat it.

 

[Rain City]

Just draw the new diameter on the hull grab your die grinder and let her eat. Bed it in with a little 5200 or similar, if there is coring material at the location resin coat it.

I'll tear a hole in a house with a chainsaw but this freaks the hell out of me.

 

[Whole in the Water]

Drilling a hole in the bottom of your boat can be nerve wracking for sure. If you do it, measure it twice, cut it once and seal it up with the best sealant for the job.

 

[Rayvon]

Die grinder if not increasing size by much,but you can cut the right size hole in a piece of 3/4 plywood and then hot glue it around the old hole to get your hole saw started if going bigger.

 

[Rain City]

Die grinder if not increasing size by much,but you can cut the right size hole in a piece of 3/4 plywood and then hot glue it around the old hole to get your hole saw started if going bigger.

If it's just a matter of drilling a hole and sealing then yeah I think I can manage with a guide like you're saying. That's how I'd oversize a hole. I just didn't know how involved the sealing and install would be. The boat has a flat spot in the hull where the existing one is so that seems pretty simple, but I'll have to offset it aft as the forward portion of the hole is as far as it can go. I also wasn't sure how the sealing goes at all, I'm assuming you'd have to grind away the bottom paint and get back to the gel coat to properly seal it, and then repair that work? It's all a little daunting having never done it.

 

[CIVANO]

This might help

 

[bigbruce]

Wouldn’t use 5200 unless you’re sure you’re never going to want to remove it.

 

[Rain City]

I think I'm going to stick with what I have for now and try a new head unit. Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[pescador]

Bro, go with the airman tm 165 hw . Transom mounted and Way better than the P66.

AIRMAR TM165C High Wide CHIRP Transom Mount - MMC Connector Required - Radioworld

TM165C High Wide CHIRP Transom Mount - MMC Connector Required TM165C-HW-MM

www.radioworld.ca

 

[Rain City]

Bro, go with the airman tm 165 hw . Transom mounted and Way better than the P66.

AIRMAR TM165C High Wide CHIRP Transom Mount - MMC Connector Required - Radioworld

TM165C High Wide CHIRP Transom Mount - MMC Connector Required TM165C-HW-MM

www.radioworld.ca

Going that route opens up many options of course

 

[northwest wind]

Get yourself an oops arbor for your hole saws no die grinding needed. This tool lets you use a hole saw in the centre the size of your hole now as a guide. Then you put whatever bigger hole saw you want to cut a bigger hole.

 

[Rain City]

Get yourself an oops arbor for your hole saws no die grinding needed. This tool lets you use a hole saw in the centre the size of your hole now as a guide. Then you put whatever bigger hole saw you want to cut a bigger hole.

I've done that by installing two hole saws on one arbor. I didn't know there was a specific one for that, interesting. But in this case again, the hole would be offset by a 1/4 hole

 

[wildthing]

Remember any thru hull you need to know your hull angle usually 0* 12* or 20* degree hulls

i have 3 SS-175's in the Bertram use a jig and the correct size hole saw if you do go thru hull and better to use 4200 or sikaflex 290i

 

[northwest wind]

I've done that by installing two hole saws on one arbor. I didn't know there was a specific one for that, interesting. But in this case again, the hole would be offset by a 1/4 hole

Didn’t know it had to be offset in that case it’s a die grinder show or a temporary plug and re hole saw it

 

[Rain City]

Didn’t know it had to be offset in that case it’s a die grinder show or a temporary plug and re hole saw it

A hole in a board as a guide works well. Someone suggested hot glue to hold it which was a good idea. Better than my 220lb foot clamps anyway.

 

[sly_karma]

A hole in a board as a guide works well. Someone suggested hot glue to hold it which was a good idea. Better than my 220lb foot clamps anyway.

Since for this job you want a hole that's not concentric with the original hole, go the scrap plywood or HDPE guide route.

But for general use down the road, a cheater bit ("arbor adapter") is pretty handy. Install it in place of the usual 1/4" pilot bit and thread on a hole saw sized the same as the existing hole. Then use that as the pilot for a second hole saw matching the desired new diameter.

Some dull facts: If you go back far enough, there was an interim period between mortised locksets and today's tubular standard, in a 2 1/8" hole. That in-between time was when the first tubular units appeared, and they used a 1 1/2" hole. Industry soon realised they needed more space to provide a range of options such as passage, privacy, keyed entry, thumblatch, storeroom and deadbolt. Inch and a half wasn't big enough, so they made the new larger standard which has been around for decades now.

So occasionally in a reno we will find an entire house worth of doors drilled at 1 1/2", the owner wants to repaint and keep the old doors as a nod to the home's age. But wants new hardware (black of course, everyone wants black now). So we dig out the cheater arbor and it's done pretty quickly.

 

[ab1752]

I enlargened the hole in my hull for a b175hw no big deal. Used a piece of scrap, ran the hole saw in reverse start then pop done. Used sikka flex. The only thing that's painful is finding the special wrench for the nut on the transducer. I made one out of scrap plywood done. Don't want to crank too hard down on it or you'll displace all the sikka. Get it snug, let the sikka set then snug a bit more. Hasn't sunk yet!

 

[Sir Reel]

I enlargened the hole in my hull for a b175hw no big deal. Used a piece of scrap, ran the hole saw in reverse start then pop done. Used sikka flex. The only thing that's painful is finding the special wrench for the nut on the transducer. I made one out of scrap plywood done. Don't want to crank too hard down on it or you'll displace all the sikka. Get it snug, let the sikka set then snug a bit more. Hasn't sunk yet!

Have the same B175HW transducer but let a professional drill the 3-3/4” hole