Electric over Hydraulic Brakes

[pescador]

I am in the process of having Electric over Hydraulic Brakes installed on my new Roadrunner trailer. I've installed the brake controller in the car (prodigy 2) and have read the manual. It looks moderately complicated. Anyone out there got any tips on setting the controller from their experiences? What am I going to find different from my previous experience with surge brakes?

 

[wet spot]

I used both kinds of brakes for my trailers and I prefer the electric...by the way I had the (Tekonsha sp?) Prodigy 2 for my travel trailer and at the time it was the best rated controller around - I assume it still is...its really simple once you have had a chance to play with it in operation.

Because the electronic brakes are not surge activated you'll find that the trailer activates simultaneously with your tow vehicle brakes (you can adjust their sensitivity) so you hardly know the trailer is there and you won't feel a 'clunk' on your hitch when the trailer brakes come on, the trailer won't be pushing the tow vehicle rear-end around on curves and downhills, and no fuss backing up. With the Prodigy controller you can set it according to the driving conditions (i.e. traffic, highway etc.)..its also nice to be able to manually activate the brakes to any degree you want as your are driving.

The only negatives I am aware of are that the electronic brakes may take a few initial activations each trip to get warmed up (they work better when they are warmed up) and you may have to occasionally clean (brush) the electronic pads in the brake assembly.

 

[Halilogger]

The electric brake controller i had for my fifth wheel was a adjustable # from 1 to 10 which determined how quickly the brakes are applied, and a # from 1 to 10 determined braking intensity.
Not sure if that is what you where looking for or if it helps. Brake controllers may have changed since I had that one.

 

[pescador]

Thats helpful guys. Everyone I know seems to use surge. I don't like surge as I find they push the rear of my SUV if I hit the brakes hard. I just never had confidence in them. Sounds like Elec/Hyd will take a little getting used to, but, will better meet my needs. I was told initial setting s/b 6, so, I guess 1-10 makes sense HL.

 

[tedgeller]

I had electric over hydrulic on my boat trailer, only way to go. The prodigy comes with good directions on how to set. Easy to adjust while driving. I found no warm up time needed as the braakes are hydrulic not electric. Just electrically controlled rather than surge. No more slm bang feeling!
Ted

 

[Ofishal]

I have to do my trailer as well...... what is the conversion costing you?

 

[pescador]

I'm paying around $ 1200 for the elec/hyd conversion. The trailer is only a few weeks old. Not sure if that makes a diff.

 

[Sculpin]

This seems to be a topic of great interest lately. I am about to rebuild my trailer (hydraulic surge system now). I have been looking into these as well but it ain't cheap. Here is a thread going on the black and red site that is interesting. I have checked out that Eastern Marine site and the pricing looks good.

http://www.bdoutdoors.com/forums/washington-state/407457-electric-over-hydraulic-trailer-brakes.html

I kind of like that mounting system. Sure lot's of stuff going on there though lol. If it makes that much of a difference that folks say it does than I guess it's a good way to go.

 

[Foxsea]

I have to do my trailer as well...... what is the conversion costing you?

This is a conversion I'm doing, as well. My trailer currently has twin axle Kodiak discs and a surge controller.
I bought the severe duty Brakerite kit from https://www.southwestwheel.com/store/p-161-d7brakeritesd.aspx for $799,
and additional $74 for an adapter to my Chevy controller plus $67.15 shipping to my door. It will plug into my existing 7 pin trailer plug, keeping the break-away battery charged.
I'm doing the install along the lines in the manual for an aluminum Shorelander: http://www.midwestindustries.com/documents/manuals/08TA0016.pdf
I'll bolt the surge slide, as someone else mentioned. Apparently, if I'm careful doing the hydraulic connections, I can even avoid the need to bleed the complete system.
It looks pretty straight forward and shouldn't take more than a 1/2 day. (barring a murphy intervention - )

 

[Sculpin]

This is a conversion I'm doing, as well. My trailer currently has twin axle Kodiak discs and a surge controller.
I bought the severe duty Brakerite kit from https://www.southwestwheel.com/store/p-161-d7brakeritesd.aspx for $799,
and additional $74 for an adapter to my Chevy controller plus $67.15 shipping to my door. It will plug into my existing 7 pin trailer plug, keeping the break-away battery charged.
I'm doing the install along the lines in the manual for an aluminum Shorelander: http://www.midwestindustries.com/documents/manuals/08TA0016.pdf
I'll bolt the surge slide, as someone else mentioned. Apparently, if I'm careful doing the hydraulic connections, I can even avoid the need to bleed the complete system.
It looks pretty straight forward and shouldn't take more than a 1/2 day. (barring a murphy intervention - )

That looks like a clean install system for sure. I like it. Thanks for posting that.

 

[pescador]

So I picked up the trailer last night from RR. Wow, thats all I can say. No comparison driving with surge compared to the new elec/hyd brakes. The controller set up seems easy to use. Not as complicated as the instructions made out. If you've got a boat over 5K lbs, this is the way to go.

 

[kanuckle head]

Modded my YANK trailer 2 comply with Transport Canada witht these parts


http://www.easternmarine.com/

Great service..................IMO


Kh

 

[Sculpin]

So I picked up the trailer last night from RR. Wow, thats all I can say. No comparison driving with surge compared to the new elec/hyd brakes. The controller set up seems easy to use. Not as complicated as the instructions made out. If you've got a boat over 5K lbs, this is the way to go.

Cool. I wanted to go that route but I'll stick to the surge system for now.

 

[Russfest]

I put an electric over hydraulic unit on my trailer. The trailer I have originally had a vacuum system as that was all that was legal when the trailer was built by Highliner in 1992.

I did a bunch of research and ended up getting the Carlise unit. Also got the Breakaway kit as its a legal requirement.
http://www.carlislebrake.com/pdfs/hydraStar.pdf
With a meter, the units, shrink tube, electrical tape, and connectors.. it took about 2 hours to install and get working. I didnt have the correct mounting bracket on me, so I actually still have to make a better one. But it worked for the trek home for me after I bought the boat. The Battery box and the breakaway solenoid I used self tapping screws and drilled them into the side of my trailer tongue.

Talked to the guys out at Sealand RV out in Richmond. Which is where I ended up getting the unit. VERY Helpful. I called all over and these guys seemed the nicest and most knowledgable.
http://maps.google.com/maps/place?c...=sealand+rv+richmond&cid=13533114439820085581
I also called Highliner, and found out my trailer model is still made and comes with the Carlisle unit. They dont use the Dexter as they had many problems when they tried it, and couldn't get parts to fix them.
When I talked to sealand RV.. I found out they supply the units to Highliner, and while they sell the Dexter units, they do not recommend them. He showed me in the back he had four returns from the past 4 months, and couldnt get parts for them... said he was waiting for months. Showed me how they destroyed the inside of them. As for the Carlisle, he said he has only ever had a few back, and thats because people that install them, install the power backwards to the units and fry the cards. He said he had lots of parts for those, and only has changed cards, lol.

 

[Foxsea]

I did a bunch of research and ended up getting the Carlise unit. Also got the Breakaway kit as its a legal requirement.
http://www.carlislebrake.com/pdfs/hydraStar.pdf
l.

Depending on the tow vehicle:
I contacted a representative at Carlisle and he informed me that you can make the Carlisle Hydrastar Electric-Hydraulic Brake Actuator, part # HBA16 work on GM trucks. Check your owners manual of your tow vehicle before using the factory brake controller with part # HBA16 - it could possibly void the GM warranty. There is a possibility that using part # HBA-CAM with part # HBA16 and your factory installed brake controller that it will not work. Customers have come back saying that it worked and others that it did not work.

I heartily agree that there are better units than Dexter and definitely install the break-away kit.

 

[Foxsea]

Modded my YANK trailer 2 comply with Transport Canada witht these parts http://www.easternmarine.com/ Great service..................IMO
Kh

...and a great price , too. About $100 less that what I paid.

 

[kanuckle head]

...and a great price , too. About $100 less that what I paid.

Yank trailers do not meet our recommended trailing specs

I have seen trailer manufactures in the lower states get away with a single brake system on a triple application......................
Pls oh god I do not drive next to that guy!!!!!

 

[Foxsea]

Yank trailers do not meet our recommended trailing specs

I have seen trailer manufactures in the lower states get away with a single brake system on a triple application......................
Pls oh god I do not drive next to that guy!!!!!

I imported a new, 6000# aluminum boat trailer with twin axles from Fla. last spring - 4 wheels Kodiak discs. I had it clear the border, did the required Transport Canada inspection and got the Canada tag in one week, with absolutely zero problems - everything was in compliance with Canadian reg.'s. Just follow the RIV checklist...easy!
http://www.riv.ca/ImporterChecklist.aspx

Swapping surge for E/H brakes is a choice in this case (6000 GVW), not a requirement.

 

[kanuckle head]

I imported a new, 6000# aluminum boat trailer with twin axles from Fla. last spring - 4 wheels Kodiak discs. I had it clear the border, did the required Transport Canada inspection and got the Canada tag in one week, with absolutely zero problems - everything was in compliance with Canadian reg.'s. Just follow the RIV checklist...easy!
http://www.riv.ca/ImporterChecklist.aspx

Swapping surge for E/H brakes is a choice in this case (6000 GVW), not a requirement.

Great on ya Cheerz bra good luck