dummy flasher setup and rigging

[Dave S]

Interested in hearing what you guys do for dummy flasher set ups? Length? Type of line? Height off ball?

Thanks!!

 

[cohochinook]

Interested in hearing what you guys do for dummy flasher set ups? Length? Type of line? Height off ball?

Thanks!!

Depends on what type of Salmon you're targeting?

 

[spring fever]

I usually use a Kone zone daisy chain right above the ball-I run my main line 8 ft above that. I have my Mono (gangion) line attached to my braid on the rigger in such a way that I can stack or use the Kzone without using stops. Extremly effective and the best set-up I have ever used for this purpose

 

[casper5280]

My only comment would be what ever length your line and flasher is make sure you clip your release clip at least that far up your downrigger line. Then you should have no troubles bringing your gear up and down. I run mine the similar to Spring Fever but attach the Kone Zone to the ball and agree by far the best set-up I have used also. No more dealing with all the hardware and way cheaper.

 

[nicnat]

Hi spring fever, any chance you could post a pic of your mono hook up to your braid, got me a little confused, I'm using the red stops both above and below my dr clips, also put one a few feet above so it'll stop before ramming my clip into the pully, they do move a bit so I tied a tiny knot with another piece of braid on either side of all stops, did this recently, seems to stop all slippage. your system sounds way easier.

cheers nicnat

 

[Seafever]

I run about 12 feet of ganon from the ball and connect it to the braid using a Double UniKnot.

In the Ganon I tie 2 knots that are 3 inches apart wherever it is that I want to connect the downrigger clip to. I have one set 2ft above the ball, another set 5ft above that. I use the bottom knots for dummy flasher and the higher set for downrigger clip.
If I'm fishing ordinary flashers I use the knots that are higher up.

That way the clip does not slip.

I suppose if you want to stack lines you need to use much longer piece of gagnon.

I find the knot that I joined the Ganon to the braid always trips the "auto-stop".

 

[casper5280]

Hi spring fever, any chance you could post a pic of your mono hook up to your braid, got me a little confused, I'm using the red stops both above and below my dr clips, also put one a few feet above so it'll stop before ramming my clip into the pully, they do move a bit so I tied a tiny knot with another piece of braid on either side of all stops, did this recently, seems to stop all slippage. your system sounds way easier.

cheers nicnat

Heres my set-up. The top line is my Braid and the bottom is the tuna cord and the mono is the downrigger clip. When the knot hits the stop the ball and clip are at the same spot 2 ft from the pulley, a little bump on the switch and and there out of the water. I now double up the tuna cord and basically have a big loop and just slip the loop throw the eye of the ball or snubber and drop the it back throw the loop so hook to deal with.

 

[spring fever]

Hi spring fever, any chance you could post a pic of your mono hook up to your braid, got me a little confused, I'm using the red stops both above and below my dr clips, also put one a few feet above so it'll stop before ramming my clip into the pully, they do move a bit so I tied a tiny knot with another piece of braid on either side of all stops, did this recently, seems to stop all slippage. your system sounds way easier.

cheers nicnat

There are many ways to do this but the way I have found is the best for me because I do a lot of testing and I have to have lots of options. I took 15 ft of 500 lb mono from PNT plus appropriate sleeves and connected it to my braid using a loop. Some guys use swivels but they can fail. 300lb mono, tuna cord or gangion works as well and perhaps you may get a little less blow back. When the looped mono comes over the pulley and into the sensor on the rigger it will stop -that is the first and ONLY auto stop on the way up. That is the position of your top rod-take off the release clip-hit the green button and bring it up another 10 or so feet manually and there is your dummy or bottom rod release. You might consider making a longer than normal release clip -makes life a little easier at times. My bottom release clip is 80 inches. In the following photos you will see a snubber then some more mono then the ball-while the snubber is necessary the add-on mono is not-just me trying different set-ups and also getting the exact length so that when a fish is coming in my side we can just lift the rigger where the line stopped and the ball goes exactly into the holder. One other thing smooth all the sleeve edges so they go through the pulleys easier-I like my set-up but if doing it again would step-down to 300 lb mono to reduce sleeve size. Hope this helps

 

[nicnat]

thanks both of you for posting the pics. my main concern with this method, like you mentioned, is any additional blow back. I only use 15 # balls and a lot of my fishing (out of vancouver) is at the mouth of the cap and the fraser, so lots of additional current etc. I am considering going back to wire, not 100% sold on the braid (interesting thread on this subject, so won't get into it here). i almost always fish stacked lines, for springs I like to spread them 30-40' apart. for sockeye (if we have a season) I'll go to about 20' and sometimes stack 3 lines per rigger. I'll use my stops with the knots for a few more trips, I think it's going to work ok with the least amount of drag. only problem being when i switch to the 20' spread I'll have those tiny knots at the 40' spread mark. haven't checked to see if it will trip the auto stop yet, but i suspect and hope it doesn't. otherwise I'll have to cut off some bottom braid and just retie, not that big a deal for once or twice a year.

cheers and thanks again, NIcnat

 

[nicnat]

sorry Dave, kinda hijacked your thread there a wee bit.

If using a dummy, I clip it on about a foot up from the ball, I use the konezone daisy chain, which is about 5-6' long and attach my bottom dr clip about 4' above it, I used to use a rotating flasher with about a 6' length, my deep rod clipped 6' above that ( or as long as the dummy is) fished about 10-12' out from the rigger so it's a good few feet behind the dummy. If using bait or a spoon with no flasher (which I usually do with a dummy) I have it not quite as far back from the dummy.

cheers nicnat

 

[spring fever]

The method I use will not work for stacked lines where you are looking for large distances apart. Mine is more for using dummies and as I have recently found a renewed interest in fishing spoons -no flasher with a chovie above. Otherwise it's back to the beads !!!

 

[Sharphooks]

Here's a head's up to anyone considering the use of dummy flashers, dummy Kone Zones or dummy anything---- be VERY cognizant of where that dummy is when hauling your gear. It can put you in a very dangerous situation when fishing near rocks or other boats.

I've been doing dummy's for multiple decade now---when I first learned about the practice, I thought it was the hottest salmon tip I ever got (I'm a bait and spoon guy so that helps explain the attraction) To this day, I could count on one hand the number of springs I've caught with an in-line flasher. I hate in-line anything, unless it's a swivel and a hook with something stinky attached to it.

But check it out---I have gone through PILES of flashers plying the dummy flasher trade---by either augering them into rock piles and snapping them off the ball, or BY GETTING THEM SUCKED UP INTO MY KICKER PROP.

Before you say "get a prop protector" I'll add that I've ALWAYS used a prop protector on my kicker. Always. But guess what---there's a nice cone of negative pressure (i.e. suction ) just behind your prop protector and it'll EASILY suck a dummy flasher through the hole and your prop will eat it for breakfast. It that happens, it's the BEST OUTCOME.

I have on numerous occasions wrapped the dummy flasher wire around the prop also---if you mess with dummies in cross currents, sooner or later it will happen to you. Really.

For me it's a nail-biter because my kicker sits way out on a port sponson and I cannot reach a prop-spun mess of broken flasher and knotted cable by hand without falling in the water---so.......I keep a long handled gaff on my boat for situations like that. I also keep a serrated diver's knife close at hand that I can lash to a gaff handle as a last resort

No argument---If you're fishing long straight tacks out on flats like Big Bank using dummies is not such a sweaty palm deal but in along the rocks, dodging other boats, I'll sometimes take the dummy flasher off---too risky.

Just my .02 worth (taking inflation and cost of living allowances into consideration)

 

[nicnat]

I find that interesting sharphooks, I've never had an issue with dummies, used them since the mid 80's and a lot of the time in strong currents off the fraser fishing sockeye, I ran 4 manual downriggers of the back of my boat, with at least 4 dummies most of the time and up to 6 lines. i won't say the lines never got tangled lol, I've never had one dummy tangle in my prop. I almost always keep my boat in gear when playing a fish and lots of times when netting as well. many times I leave the other rigger down going for a double. if it's a large fish the other lines come in most of the time but if the fish is well clear on the side it was caught I will leave it down and stay in gear keeping the fish to the outside. not sure what you are doing to have those problems because if your dummies are catching rocks your lines must be too? If I'm fishing the bottom or bottom bouncing I won't use a dummy for obvious reasons.

cheers nicnat

 

[spring fever]

SharpHooks is right on especially with KONE Zones -make doubly sure that the Daisy chain cannot reach that kicker. If it can -put a stop so it can't come to that level. Sh** Happens!

 

[Sharphooks]

hey nicnat---two clarifications---for the most part I fish alone, so if I'm running two DR's, I'm doing a lot of scrambling, especially with a double header.

Also, I NEVER leave my boat in gear when fighting a fish (unless I'm chasing a fish to get line back, avoiding cliffs when up close and personal with the shoreline, or moving out of a pack of boats to protect my hard earned prize)

Otherwise, I'm in neutral for as long as it's safe being in neutral.

That's not when I lose my dummies: it's when I'm under power, preoccupied with other stuff, and my gear is up top.

So, to second spring fever's motion....Sh** Happens, and I thought it worth sounding the alarm to anybody asking questions about using dummies ---they should be aware of that possibility.

My magic length for good dummy-flasher action below my bait is 2 meters of wire from the ball: that length just happens to coincide perfectly with the optimum length for allowing my flasher to get sucked up into the prop of my kicker, especially on a turn to starboard.

Just sayin' that's my experience.

 

[Dogbreath]

a nice cone of negative pressure (i.e. suction ) just behind your prop protector

Yeah I've seen that-no system will protect you from every possible misstep.