quote:Originally posted by Slabby20
When fishing shallow, say 30' in Barkley Sound, do you like to use glow or do you stick with more of the non-glow or UV flashers? The last few years I seem to have had better success using plain old red/silver, purple/gold, green/silver or purple haze.
Slabby20… I am partial to a “Hot Spot” flasher and as far as choice of color, this might help you!
Hoochiebob… Phosphorescent! Glow!
Yea, I agree with Poppa. The flasher is designed to attract fish trough vibrations first and then sight… transitioning the fish to the movement of the bait/lure. Leader length and presentation are far more important than flasher color, especially at 250 feet! The only possible difference would be the use of a Phosphorescent finish.
Captain Dowriggin’s, “White – No question… my personal favorite…” is pretty correct down here in Puget Sound for winter blackmouth especially running in deep water. Green and blue are a close second depending on clarity and depth and does follow what is called, the Spectrum Fishing Theory. FYI... white is made up of the colors red, blue, and green. As it descends it loses the color in its respective spectrum. Think about it? At approximately 14 feet it loses the red spectrum... leaving the blue and green to be seen. Not a bad choice! If I didn't have a choice and had to choose one single color to use, it would be white!
Light is absorbed by water according to wavelength with the longer wave radiation (red) absorbed first. Maximum transmission is for short wavelengths of light. This absorption accounts for the disappearance of color from flashers and lures. In other words, a red flasher will appear black in deep water because no red light is present to reflect. If one is running red or orange below 20 feet the color is not showing and it appears brown or black. If they are having success with these colors it is not due to the red or orange color, but related to the action, the flash (some glow paint or tape), or the fact that it is actually showing as black or brown in color. This is true as you move down in depth with the other colors.
We have all sought ways to determine the best colors. With most selecting a color either by asking others what's working or by picking one that has served well in the past. But the best way is to use the Spectrum. It has proven reliable. Red is the favorite choice of fish if the red light rays are visible to them. When red rays are not visible the closest to red in the color spectrum becomes the favorite. So, a red flasher or lure should be the first to consider! Not necessarily, red is also the first color to fade out entirely and usually at a depth of approximately 14 feet, hence why most people end up using green. Me included! Orange, purple, and ultraviolet rays disappear below 45 feet (13.7 m). Yellow is visible to 90 feet (27.4 m), green to 110 feet (33.5 m), and blue to 180 feet (24.4 m). Colors below their visibility range only show as grey or black. I do switch to blue quite a bit in the afternoon and on overcast days!
I use this to help me remember what colors to use, divide the solar spectrum into colors that are warm (red, orange, and yellow) or cold (green and blue). Warm colors are considered when fishing shallow water and in bright light. Cold colors when fishing deeper water and during lower-light periods.
Your metallics can also be considered, since they reflect specific colors. Brass and copper reflect close to yellow and orange, respectively. Silver reflects white. Nickel and chrome, like mirrors reflect existing color rays at their depth. Black is made up of all colors and hence is the best contrast color.
Fluorescent colors offered in some flashers and lures look really sharp; however, I see no real advantage for their use. Incidentally, fluorescents activated by ultraviolet rays are effective only in the upper 45 feet of the water column. Phosphorescent finishes are a different story, when exposed to light such as a flashlight they glow white. At least, for short periods then require recharging. Phosphorescent lures have proven effective on Chinook salmon especially early morning and late-evening.
Because it greatly affects color penetration, light intensity must be considered when selecting the color. During the day, direct sunlight is the main light source, but a lesser significant source is diffused sky light. Direct light rays striking the water at a 30-degree angle or less are reflected, not contributing any light downward. The exception is on windy days when the angles of waves catch some of the rays and send flashes of light downward. This is why a chop on the surface is such a big help to fishing. Once light strikes the water at an angle greater than 30 degrees, it starts to penetrate deeper and deeper as the sun moves toward noon, with maximum penetration at mid-day. Then the sun starts to descend and light intensity decreases to eventual darkness. It is important to realize that colors penetrate differently as the day advances and light intensity changes. For a while in early light only blue rays will show. Then gradually green will be visible to fish, then yellow, and so on. Mid-day is optimum for maximum penetration of all colors. During the afternoon, color visibility changes in reverse order with blue the last to be seen.
But in the end, you still need to remember; the most important thing is:
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