Crappy tachometer

Bryan Allen

Well-Known Member
I have a Faria tachometer in my Alumaweld. It is the THIRD one that has been installed since I had a new powerhead installed in my 2017 Merc 115 4 stoke in the last year. Initially the problem was fogging up of the gauges. Two were replaced by warrantee with the second one having hissy fits by periodically giving a spontaneous reading reading up to 1000 RPM above what the motor was running at. The third one is also showing some fogging PLUS its is showing a reading that I know is around 1000 RPM high ! When the motor is turned off.. it still shows 1000rpm. It will go back to 0 when I restart. Doing some poking around on the 'Mercan boating sites, it seems that Faria has a crappy rating. I am not prepared to get a integrated smart gauge at a cost of close to $800, so do any of you have recommendations what would be a good replacement ? TIA. Bryan
 
I have a Faria tachometer in my Alumaweld. It is the THIRD one that has been installed since I had a new powerhead installed in my 2017 Merc 115 4 stoke in the last year. Initially the problem was fogging up of the gauges. Two were replaced by warrantee with the second one having hissy fits by periodically giving a spontaneous reading reading up to 1000 RPM above what the motor was running at. The third one is also showing some fogging PLUS its is showing a reading that I know is around 1000 RPM high ! When the motor is turned off.. it still shows 1000rpm. It will go back to 0 when I restart. Doing some poking around on the 'Mercan boating sites, it seems that Faria has a crappy rating. I am not prepared to get a integrated smart gauge at a cost of close to $800, so do any of you have recommendations what would be a good replacement ? TIA. Bryan
Autometer
 
I had the same symptoms (well, not the fogging but the weird readings) -as MOST electrical "glitches" are ground related, I spent hours making sure that was solid, but no improvement - what finally corrects it? A light rap on the dial with a knuckle! No idea why, but whenever it reads off, a quick tap, and it's good for the day.
Since I'm paranoid (and relatively cheap) and didn't want to spring for the full Smartcraft gauge package I went for the bluetooth module - that plus the free app gives a full set of readings - rpm, temp, oil pressure, fuel burn, plus hours code readings etc. Relatively expensive for a simple bluetooth gateway (~$400 IIRC) but much less than the hardwired gauges and overall worth it.
 
chrome bezel , black gauge with white letters and blue 500 RPM marks


The coral or the Chesapeake. Does it go to 6000 or 7000?

With outboards and manual tacs, the ones that are compatible are the one with a selector pole switch on the back. Some outboards are different. Inboard are different. The ones with no switchboard the back will not work with outboards unless it was a manufacture supplied unit.

As to the reason why when the key is off it shows 1000 rpm and then goes back down when you turn the key is normal. Most tachs do that with outboards
 
do the boat solution - get a nmea 2k gateway for the engine and display engine data by buying a 12" chartplotter for it.
 
The coral or the Chesapeake. Does it go to 6000 or 7000?

With outboards and manual tacs, the ones that are compatible are the one with a selector pole switch on the back. Some outboards are different. Inboard are different. The ones with no switchboard the back will not work with outboards unless it was a manufacture supplied unit.

As to the reason why when the key is off it shows 1000 rpm and then goes back down when you turn the key is normal. Most tachs do that with outboards
Goes to 6000 rpm. The key off 1000 rpm reading issue is weird, because the previous TWO tachs , same model didnt do that ! I have been told by CV Marine in Courtenay that there might be adjustment on the back of the gauge. I cant see it, so I will I have asked them to have a look when I can get in to see them. I appreciate all the advice the forum has given me....Its only a matter of time before I get it up and running.
 
I have a merc sc1000 system monitor I could sell it you for cheap. You would just need to buy the wire harness.


I also have merc 115s, curious as to why you needed to replace the powerhead??
Too busy to spend much more time on the boat b/c of Xmas, but I could be getting back to you in future. As far as the powerhead replacement, I was just plain lucky. When I purchased the engine , I purchased the extended warrantee. 2 or 3 years if memory serves. I was out fishing off Qualicum with a buddy, and we nailed a couple of lings. Went into Tribune, dropped the hook and had lunch . Started the engine and slowly throttled up and the engine started to shake and felt like it was coming apart ! Ran through the normal check list to see if we could get running-- but nope! We returned to Comox on the 9.9 kicker at 5mph. 4+ hours. Turns out the oil pump had failed.. CV Marine could not figure out why-- nothing obvious. However, I remembered that I might have some warrantee time left. They checked with Mercury and I had just TWO week left ! Mercury shipped a new powerhead from Michigan to Ontario and then it was sent to Courtenay. Took several weeks . My deductible was a whopping $50 can. Otherwise it would have been in the thousands.
 
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